
70+ wines reviewed below, including the latest from
Alta,
Anderson Family,
Aubaine, Blackboard by
Matthews,
Chehalem,
Fielding Hills,
Mark Ryan,
Prospice,
Savage Grace,
Stoller,
Succession,
Toil Oregon,
Trothe, and
Virtue.
No one in Washington is making wines like Michael Savage at Savage Grace. Savage moved to the Columbia Gorge in recent years after purchasing part of Underwood Mountain Vineyards. He’s continued to focus on lower alcohol, low oak, and minimal intervention wines from single vineyards that he feels have something important to say. I’ve been tasting Savage’s wines from the beginning, and the current releases are among his very best – all dynamic, unique, and achingly pure. These are wines worth seeking out. Better still, visit the winery.
Trothe is a new project from the Andrews family, who have been farming in the Horse Heaven Hills for four generations. No one knows this land better. The wine is made by Ray McKee, former red winemaker at Chateau Ste Michelle. Few have as much experience working with this fruit. The results from the 2020 are magical. This is a top-end endeavor aiming to place Horse Heaven Hills more prominently on the world wine map. With wines like these, they seem sure to succeed.
Prospice founders Matt Reilly and Jay Krutulis met as students at the
Institute for Enology and Viticulture at
Walla Walla Community College. They launched Prospice in 2017 and have quickly become one of the most exciting young wineries in the state. Some of the wines below are among the duo’s best to date.
The reviews below also include a look at Chardonnay and Pinot Noir verticals from Anderson Family in Dundee Hills, all current releases. These estate wines come from a vineyard planted in 1992 and were all made “from the same vines in the same way,” says owner Cliff Anderson. They offer a fascinating look at vintage variation and site. The Pinot Noirs bring the intensity and detail one expects from Dundee Hills and are delicious in their own right. But it was the Anderson Chardonnays that I was most struck by, each showing a nuanced style and consistency in expression.
Since 2000, Fielding Hills winemaker Mike Wade has focused on unabashedly bold, estate wines from the family’s Riverbend Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. If you’re looking for straight up delicious reds, look no further.
Finally, Succession is a young winery located in Manson, Washington, in the Lake Chelan appellation. The winery makes a diverse set of wines, all with a distinctive style that shows elegance and intensity. It is well worth a stop for people traveling to the appellation.
Look for upcoming feature articles on some of these wineries.
NB: I have now started to list all closure types after the reviews, not just alternative closures.
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RED WINES
CABERNET SAUVIGNONTrothe Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $239
96 points, Cellar StockerTrothe is a new project from the Andrews family that aims to put Horse Heaven Hills more prominently on the world wine map. With wines like this, they will surely succeed. This is 100% varietal, fermented in concrete with extended skin contact and then aged 23 months in 75% new French oak. It spent 13 months in bottle prior to release. Coming from blocks 98 (65%) and 03, it’s aromatically closed initially but still commands attention, with notes of flower, herb, black cherry, and scorched earth. The flavors are focused, supple, polished, and palate coating. It’s exquisitely proportioned, with mesmerizing balance. The finish sails. It's a wine that succeeds not because of brawn, though it has it, but because of sophisticated beauty and balance. In a word, wow. Best from 2030 to 2040. 14.5% alcohol. 250 cases produced. Natural cork.
Prospice Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $55
93 points, Critic’s ChoicePhinny Hill has quickly established itself as one of the top Cabernet Sauvignon sites in Washington. This is a glorious example. The aromas pull you into the glass, with notes of fresh herb, wildflower, tar, plum, black cherry, and fennel. The flavors place the wine squarely on Phinny Hill, with notes of scorched earth, dried leaf, fresh herb, and cherry, showing seamless intensity, impressive purity, and nuance. The tannins are combed to a fine sheen. Very far from a big bruiser, this is classy Washington Cabernet Sauvignon at its finest, coming from a top site and a rising star producer. It’s a spectacular wine with a long life ahead of it. Drink it now or anytime in the next 15 to 20 years. 14.3% alcohol. 147 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Alta Rosebud Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope 2020 $64
91 pointsComing from 1981 plantings, this is 100% varietal. Aromas of raspberry paste, dried herb, fresh pipe tobacco, and dried flower lead to fruit flavors that have impressive presence, layering, and depth. It brings a lot of yum. 14.9% alcohol. 98 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Fielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope 2019 $50
91 points, Critic’s ChoiceBlended with 4% Syrah and 2% each Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Merlot, red and black licorice aromas are at the fore, followed by vanilla extract, cherry, and sweet spices, mixing fruit and barrel. Rich, full-bodied, creamy-feeling flavors follow. The focus is on hedonism, and it brings it in abundance. 14.9% alcohol. 501 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Prospice Club Exclusive Shaw Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2019 $65
91 pointsStill in its shell, this wine brings aromas of tar, dried and fresh black fruit, herb, and anise. Pitch black fruit flavors follow, showing focused intensity. The tannins are polished to a fine sheen. 14.4% alcohol. 72 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Succession Quintessence Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2020 $75
91 pointsQuintessence is quickly establishing itself as one of the top Cabernet sites on Red Mountain. The aromas are brooding, with notes of coffee, cocoa, herb, and cherry, all with pleasing detail. Polished, supple, fuller-bodied cocoa and cherry flavors follow. Classy stuff, with the extraction pulled back. 14.5% alcohol. 101 cases produced. Natural cork.
Succession Bacchus Vineyard Block 10 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon White Bluffs 2020 $75
90 pointsBacchus is home to some of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines in Washington. This offering is lightly colored for the variety. The aromas provide appeal, with notes of raspberry, cedar, cherry, and dried leaf. A medium-bodied, fleshy, almost delicate-feeling palate follows. It’s a very pretty interpretation of the variety, ripe but with the extraction and overt tannin structure dialed back. 14.3% alcohol. 95 cases produced. Natural cork.
Virtue Charisma Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $40
90 points100% varietal, fruit for this wine comes from Conner Lee and Red Mountain Vineyard. Aged 18 months in 25% new French oak, the aromas bring notes of fresh green and savory herb, licorice stick, gardenia, whole peppercorn, and cherry. Medium-bodied , spritely flavors follow, bringing freshness and impeccable balance. It explores the variety’s fresher side. 14.3% alcohol. 97 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Blackboard by Matthews Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $24
89 pointsBlended with 11% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, black currant, charcoal, flower, and herb aromas lead to plump feeling black currant flavors with elevated freshness. The oak is pulled way back, yielding a pleasingly unadulterated look at Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.5% alcohol. 1,206 cases produced. Screwcap.
Alta Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $55
88 pointsFruit for this wine comes from Stanton and Bacchus vineyards. Black cherry, dried herb, and ember aromas lead to lighter-styled flavors that paint around the edges. There are good things happening, but it needs a bit more oomph to tie them all together. 14.5% alcohol. 158 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Succession Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $50
88 pointsThis is 100% varietal, with fruit coming from top sites Lawrence, Weinbau, Bacchus, and Quintessence. The aromas bring notes of dark raspberry, plum, anise, allspice, and tire rubber. Ripe fruit flavors follow, focused mostly around the edges, lighter in the middle. 14.9% alcohol. 335 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
BORDEAUX-STYLE BLENDS
Trothe Limited Red Wine Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $174
95 points, Cellar StockerTrothe is a new winery from the Andrews family, who have been farming in the Horse Heaven Hills for four generations. Cabernet Franc makes up two-thirds of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. It was vinified in concrete with extended skin contact and then aged 23 months in 100% new French oak. The aromas are brooding, with notes of dark cherry, plum, barrel spice, cinnamon stick, and anise. Full-feeling, rich, penetrating flavors follow, bringing layers of intensity and richness, mixing fruit and barrel. Firm tannins back it all up. The finish sails – the intensity, knee-buckling. It needs significant time for the tannins to further resolve and show its best but will be more than worth the wait. Enjoy after 2030. 14.8% alcohol. 41 cases produced. Natural cork.
Prospice BDX Columbia Valley 2020 $65
94 points, Critic’s ChoiceThis is near equal parts Merlot (35%), Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), and Cabernet Franc. Dried and fresh herb, flower, cocoa, black cherry, and tar aromas lead to a luscious, rich, high-thread count, well-balanced dark fruit flavors. Coffee notes linger on the finish. There’s impressive structure around it all. It’s full of hedonism, but with one hand on the throttle – a true stunner and example of the best that 2020 has to offer. 14.4% alcohol. 121 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Blackboard by Matthews Red Wine Columbia Valley 2020 $24
90 points, Critic’s ChoiceBlackboard is an entry level project from the folks at Matthews. This is nearly two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, just over a third of Merlot, and a dash of Petit Verdot. Fruit-forward aromas of blackberry, black currant, and black tea lead to plump-feeling dark fruit flavors. There’s no apparent new oak in sight, putting the focus squarely on the ripe fruit. If you want a completely unadulterated look at what these varieties taste like, here it is. 14.5% alcohol. 11,880 cases produced. Screwcap.
Succession Bridge Builder’s Blend Columbia Valley 2020 $49
90 pointsThis is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (44%), Merlot (26%), Cabernet Franc (19%), and Malbec. Aged in 20% new French and Hungarian oak, the aromas bring subdued notes of cigar box, fresh herb, and ember. Soft, ripe, full-bodied black fruit flavors follow, backed by smooth tannins that show just a touch of graininess. 14.5% alcohol. 726 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Virtue Fortitude Red Blend Columbia Valley 2020 $32
90 points, Critic’s ChoiceThis wine has traditionally been Merlot-dominant, but this vintage it is 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, and 21% Malbec. A blend of fruit from Olsen, Conner Lee, and Red Mountain vineyards, it was aged 18 months in second fill and neutral oak. The aromas are unique, with notes of cherry and raspberry jam, along with green flower, tobacco, and a whiff of smoke. The flavors are pure and supple, with a lightly grainy feel. The winemaking is top notch in what was, for many, a challenging year. 14.0% alcohol. 146 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Alta Navigator Columbia Valley 2020 $45
88 pointsMerlot makes up half of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Franc (25%), Cabernet Sauvignon (13%), and Malbec. Aromas of black licorice, red and black raspberry, flower, and whole, slightly dried cranberry lead to plump fruit flavors. There’s a pleasing feel to it, but all of the parts don’t quite fit. 13.9% alcohol. 536 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
MERLOTSuccession Oscar Merlot Columbia Valley 2020 $45
93 points, Critic’s ChoiceFruit for this wine comes from across Columbia Valley, including Quintessence (Red Mountain), Dionysus (White Bluffs), Candy Mountain (Candy Mountain), and Chouette (Lake Chelan) vineyards. It was cold soaked and given an eight-day extended maceration. The aromas are still in their shell initially, with notes of dark cherry, plum, sweet herb, and graphite. Pretty, plump, hyper-polished flavors follow, showing appealing depth and texture to the dark fruit flavors. Soft, supple tannins support it all. It’s a one-wine charm offensive, with an emphasis on elegance. 14.8% alcohol. 449 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Fielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Merlot Wahluke Slope 2019 $40
92 points, Critic’s ChoiceBlended with 3% Syrah and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, the aromas bring some reduction initially. Following that are notes of cocoa, coffee, herb, cherry, and cherry liqueur. Smooth, well-balanced, full-bodied, creamy-feeling dark fruit flavors follow, speckled with barrel accents. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s tasty, classic Fielding Hills – power mixed with unabashed deliciousness. Decant. 14.7% alcohol. 175 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Succession Quintessence Vineyard Reserve Merlot Red Mountain 2020 $72
90 pointsHerb, coffee, anise, cherry, and fruit leather aromas lead to an elegant palate, full of supple dark fruit flavors, mixed with cranberry and currant accents. The fulsome tannins that the appellation is often known for are quite reserved. It’s a pretty wine, surprisingly restrained considering the listed alcohol. 15.1% alcohol. 125 cases produced. Natural cork.
Alta Candy Mountain Vineyards Merlot Candy Mountain 2020 $44
89 pointsFruit for this wine comes from one of Washington’s newest appellation’s. Aromas of cedar, dried herb, dried tobacco, whole cranberry, menthol, flower, and red currant lead to plump dark fruit flavors backed by soft tannins. There’s much to enjoy. 15.1% alcohol. 293 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Blackboard by Matthews Merlot Columbia Valley 2020 $24
88 pointsThis includes 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. The aromas bring notes of plum, cherry, fruit leather, currant, menthol, and ember. Cassis and plum flavors follow. The tannins give a grainy grip, showing some astringency. 14.5% alcohol. 794 cases produced. Screwcap.
Prospice Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2020 $55
88 pointsBlended with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, this wine was aged 22 months in French oak (29% new). Reserved aromas of dark raspberry, spice, tobacco, and herb aromas lead to a palate on the lighter side of medium-bodied, with a lightly grainy feel. The variety is somewhat hard to place. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 14.5% alcohol. 120 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
CABERNET FRANC
Savage Grace Copeland Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rattlesnake Hills 2019 $36
93 points, Critic’s ChoiceNo one in Washington makes Cabernet Franc like Michael Savage at Savage Grace. The aromas erupt from the glass, with notes of raspberry, fresh herb, pepper, and flower. Soft, exquisitely balanced, achingly pure flavors follow. It’s a standout wine that sings from the rooftops. Pair it with smoked spare ribs. 12.5% alcohol. 364 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Fielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope 2019 $42
91 pointsFruit and barrel intertwine on the aromas, with notes of cocoa, coffee, and dark cherry. Full-feeling, creamy dark fruit flavors follow, with notes of vanilla threaded throughout. It mixes fruit and barrel in equal parts. 14.6% alcohol. 238 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Virtue Temperance Cabernet Franc Royal Slope 2020 $38
89 pointsAll of the fruit for this wine comes from Stoneridge Vineyard, one of the most distinctive sites in the state. The aromas show notes of green and savory herb, raspberry, and flower. Pure, lightly smoky, grainy-feeling flavors follow. There’s some smoke impact here, but it’s slight enough many might not notice. If so, there’s even more enjoyment to be had. 14.3% alcohol. 49 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Alta Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2020 $45
88 pointsThis wine is somewhat lighter in color for the appellation and vintage. Aromas of cigar box, cedar, crushed flower, red fruit, and a whiff of smoke lead to plump-feeling, elegantly styled red fruit flavors. It’s a pretty interpretation of this variety. 14.8% alcohol. 238 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Prospice Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley 2020 $55
88 pointsThe aromas offer appeal, with notes of dried herb, ember, cedar, and black cherry. The palate is sumptuous, fuller feeling around the edges, with a soft feel. There’s pleasing freshness, with lightly gritty tannins. Smoky notes are threaded throughout. 14.3% alcohol. 95 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Succession Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2020 $50
88 pointsThis is 100% varietal, with fruit coming from Quintessence (Red Mountain, 57%) and Weinbau (Wahluke) vineyards. Aged in 28% new French and Hungarian oak, the aromas are reserved, with notes of ember, smoke, and herb. There’s pleasing balance to the lighter seeming flavors. Soft structure backs it up, with a graininess to the tannin. 14.4% alcohol. 328 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
MALBEC
Savage Grace Dineen Vineyard Côt Rattlesnake Hills 2019 $36
93 points, Critic’s ChoiceThe aromas show Malbec at its essence, with notes of dried flower, plum, herb, black pepper, and dried tangerine rind. Laser-focused, hyper-pure, lip-smacking flavors follow, offering a feeling of fullness while remaining fleet of foot. It’s breathtaking – unlike anything else coming from the state. Pair it with grilled skirt steak topped with chimichurri. 11.5% alcohol. 336 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Virtue Vitality Conner Lee Vineyard Malbec Columbia Valley 2020 $38
91 pointsConner Lee is a cooler site and the most prominent vineyard that does not currently lie within a sub-appellation of Columbia Valley. Aged 18 months in 66% new Hungarian and American oak, the aromas pop, with notes of tangerine essence, plum, dried herb, dried twig, a light savory note, and a whiff of smoke and menthol. Medium-bodied, fruit-forward flavors follow. It hangs on the finish. It’s a very pretty offering of the variety, made in a reserved style. 13.8% alcohol. 71 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Alta Stanton Vineyard Malbec Red Mountain 2020 $48
88 pointsAromas of cocoa, orange essence, cola, cinnamon, plum, and dash of celery salt lead to soft, plump-feeling plum and barrel flavors. It’s interesting, though the aromas and flavors don’t entirely sync. 14.7% alcohol. 170 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Fielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Malbec Wahluke Slope 2019 $48
88 pointsThe aromas are high-pitched, with notes of vanilla, cocoa, and purple fruit. Vanilla and plum flavors follow, with a smooth feel. Coffee notes linger on the finish. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 14.1% alcohol. 272 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Succession Malbec Columbia Valley 2020 $46
88 pointsFruit for this wine comes from Antoine Creek (70%) and Weinbau vineyards, a cooler site and a warmer one. Aged in 15% new French oak with the rest a mixture of used French and American, aromas of cinnamon stick, potpourri, black licorice, coffee, and celery salt lead to bright, plump, medium-bodied flavors. It’s interesting, and the feel is appealing. The variety is challenging to find, however. 14.8% alcohol. 242 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
OTHER BORDEAUX VARIETIESSuccession Weinbau Reserve Petit Verdot Wahluke Slope 2020 $78
91 pointsThis is 100% varietal, aged in 66% new French oak. The aromas bring notes of purple flower, green herb, cherry, and coffee. Ripe, fuller-feeling flavors follow. The variety’s impressive acid carries it. 14.7% alcohol. 76 cases produced. Natural cork.
Alta Weinbau Vineyard Reserve Carménère Wahluke Slope 2020 $75
88 pointsCarménère is a rarity in Washington but does well here. All aged in neutral oak, the aromas show notes of spicy pepper and cherry. The flavors are fuller in the middle, lighter around the edges. Still, it’s interesting. 14.9% alcohol. 23 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
SYRAH, GRENACHE, AND RHÔNE-STLYE BLENDSSuccession The Rocks Ancient Stone Reserve Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2020 $80
93 pointsFermented with 30% stem inclusion and then aged in 29% new 500L French oak puncheons for 20 months, the aromas pop, with notes of wild blueberry, kirsch, pepper, orange rind, flower, and plum, showing dazzling purity. It fully delivers on that promise, with ultra-soft, palate-coating, pure flavors. The flavors are rich but also show pleasing restraint. It’s a head turner. Rocks fans who are looking for fruit purity without the funk, give this wine a look. 13.8% alcohol. 187 cases produced. Natural cork.
Virtue Enthusiasm Thunderstone Vineyard Grenache Royal Slope 2020 $35
92 points, Critic’s ChoiceWhole berry fermented and aged 18 months in second-fill French oak, aromas of violet essence, dried tangerine peel, and black raspberry lead to supple, textured fruit flavors. The purity is impressive, as is the textural richness. The fruit profile isn’t immediately identifiable as Grenache, though it’s delicious all the same, ramping up in intensity with time open. Give it some time in bottle or a short decant to see it at its best. 14.3% alcohol. 50 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Fielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Syrah Wahluke Slope 2019 $42
91 pointsBlended with 4% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aromas of blackberry, bramble, herb, and barrel spice lead to full-bodied, creamy-feeling dark fruit flavors that coat the palate from end-to-end. A yum ball of a wine, the enjoyment is as much about feel as flavor. 14.8% alcohol. 278 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Succession Syrah Yakima Valley 2020 $50
90 pointsThis is a blend of fruit from Quintessence (78%) and Candy Mountain, two hot sites. Co-fermented with 2.5% Viognier and aged in 25% new oak, aromas of black fruit and hard candy lead to a full-bodied palate. There’s pleasing purity to the (quite) ripe fruit flavors that continues through the finish. It’s an unabashedly warm site, warm vintage offering and pulls it off in spades. 14.9% alcohol. 510 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Virtue Sincerity Wallula Vineyard Syrah Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $3889 pointsThis is all Sara Lee clone from 1999 plantings. Whole berry fermented, the aromas offer notes of coffee, green olive, and Robitussin, mixing fruit and savory. Medium-bodied smoked meat flavors follow, thinning slightly toward the finish. There are good pieces, but not quite a whole. 14.2% alcohol. 94 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Virtue Unity GSM Red Wine Columbia Valley 2020 $32
89 pointsSyrah makes up 48% of this wine, with the rest Grenache (27%), and Mourvèdre. Aged 18 months in a blend of second fill and neutral oak, the aromas are brooding initially, with notes of green flower, freshly peeled orange rind, plum, and a whiff of smoke. The hyper-pure flavors that this winery is known for are there on the palate, backed by a lightly grainy feel. 14.2% alcohol. 50 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
PINOT NOIR
Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2018 $56
93 points, Cellar StockerAll coming from the winery’s estate vineyard, the aromas are pleasing, with notes of cherry, spice, tea, and cola. Supple, broad-feeling, well-balanced flavors follow, gliding on the finish. It’s a classic Dundee Hills-style wine from a strong vintage. Best after 2025 with a long life beyond that. 13.8% alcohol. 1,300 cases produced. Natural cork.
Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2019 $56
92 points, Critic’s ChoiceThis hails from a true throw-back vintage for the state. Coming in at a mere 12.4% alcohol, cola, tobacco, dried orange peel, and baking spice aromas are followed by black tea flavors that show grace and length. Beautiful stuff. 12.4% alcohol. 1,300 cases produced. Natural cork.
Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2016 $56
92 points, Cellar StockerEarth, cinnamon stick, anise, and dried cherry aromas are followed by medium-bodied, well-balanced darker fruit flavors that show depth and length. It’s captivating. Decant or enjoy after 2025. 13.5% alcohol. 1,130 cases produced. Natural cork. NB: First bottle showed significant reduction.
Aubaine Anahata Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 2019 $50
92 points, Cellar StockerThis wine shows some reduction initially. Beyond that the aromas offer notes of black tea, spice, dried flower, and whole satsuma. Broad-feeling but still light, fresh flavors follow, showing depth and intensity while remaining fleet of foot. Lightly grainy tannins back it up. It’s thoroughly delightful. Give it time in bottle or a long decant. Best after 2025. 13.1% alcohol. 495 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Succession Antoine Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir Columbia Valley 2020 $46
92 pointsPinot Noir is Washington’s white whale. Fermented with 15% stem inclusion and then aged 18 months in 22% new Burgundy barrels, the aromas are appealing, with notes of dried tangerine rind, cola, cedar, and spice. A transparently styled, rounded, well-balanced palate follows. It’s an intriguing statement of the possibilities of Pinot Noir in this part of Columbia Valley. 13.7% alcohol. 224 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2017 $56
91 pointsAromas of strawberry, mushroom, spice box, pepper, dried orange rind, and black tea lead to elegant, refined, juicy fruit and earth flavors. Cinnamon notes linger on the finish. The fruit seems slightly dried out on an otherwise lovely wine. That said, it still has plenty of life in front of it. 13.5% alcohol. 1,470 cases produced. Natural cork.
Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2015 $56
91 pointsThe aromas offer notes of cinnamon stick, cherry, cola, and herb. Dark fruit flavors are backed by taut tannins with a lightly sandy feel. It’s still largely slumbering at present. Cellar or decant. 13.3% alcohol. 1,450 cases produced. Natural cork. NB: First bottle showed some oxidation.
Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2014 $56
90 pointsThis wine is starting to show some pleasing bottle age notes, with aromas of earth, dried cherry, mushroom, cola, licorice, and cinnamon stick. Medium-bodied flavors follow, showing the muscle of the appellation and vintage while still retaining juicy acidity. It’s in a pretty spot. 13.2% alcohol. 1,300 cases produced. Natural cork
Toil Oregon Pinot Noir Oregon 2021 $50
90 pointsA project from Figgins Family Wine Estates, aromas of fresh and crushed flower, whole satsuma, tea, plum, and spice lead to broad-feeling plum and cherry flavors. It offers plenty of textural appeal, with juicy satsuma and dark fruit flavors winding through the finish. 13.6% alcohol. 220 cases produced. Natural cork.
Ashyln Heart of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $25
88 pointsThe aromas are reduced initially, causing some distraction. Beyond that are notes of metal, cigar box, and cherry. The palate has fuller-feeling flavors of black tea and cherry. It’s an enjoyable, value-priced bottle. 14.0% alcohol. 900 cases produced. Screwcap.
RED BLENDSFielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Tribute Wahluke Slope 2019 $40
91 pointsThis is a Merlot-driven offering (57%), backed with Cabernet Sauvignon (31%) and Syrah. Blackberry jam, licorice, dried herb, vanilla, and dried rose petal aromas lead to pitch black fruit flavors. The palate shows ripeness and intensity. 14.8% alcohol. 514 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Alta District No. 5 Red Blend Columbia Valley 2020 $68
91 pointsTempranillo makes up half of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (25%), Carménère (13%), and Petit Verdot. Seeing just a kiss of new oak (9%), the aromas offer purity and appeal, with notes of raspberry, pencil eraser, cedar, and herb. Plump, luscious fruit flavors follow, with the tannins pulled back. It’s straight up, unabashed enjoyment. 14.5% alcohol. 100 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Savage Grace X-Block Underwood Mountain Vineyard Field Blend Columbia Gorge 2021 $42
91 points, Critic’s ChoiceMichael Savage is making some of the most exciting wines in Washington, with much of the fruit coming from an extinct volcano, Underwood Mountain, located 1,100-feet above sea level in a sub-alpine forest. Aromas of brambly blue fruit, herb, dried flower, star anise, and cinnamon stick lead to lighter-styled, supremely fresh, crunchy fruit flavors backed by bright acid and firm tannins. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. Grilled lamb chops should do. 12.5% alcohol. 85 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
WHITE WINES
CHARDONNAY
Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2020 $48
94 points, Critic’s ChoiceThe aromas offer nuance and detail, with notes of struck flint, yellow apple, pear, and corn silk. An exquisite palate follows, with elegance, acidity, and detail while remaining beautifully understated. A lingering finish caps it off. It’s spectacular. 13.4% alcohol. 275 cases produced. Natural cork.
Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2017 $48
92 pointsThe apple, clarified butter, straw, and herb aromas show just a touch of age, as does the coloring. Fuller feeling flavors follow, revealing generous texture and a pleasing uptick in acidity. The balance and length impress, as does the ultra-long finish. It’s a classical style of Chardonnay, almost more Old World than New in some respects. 13.9% alcohol. 550 cases produced. Natural cork.
Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2015 $48
91 pointsHailing from the hot 2015 vintage, the aromas show notes of cardamom, pear, and apple, bringing sophistication. A richly textured palate follows, showing some warmth on the finish. 14.3% alcohol. 525 cases produced. Natural cork.
Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2018 $48
91 pointsThe aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of spice, struck flint, squash, and clarified butter. Focused, supple, somewhat riper-style flavors follow. It’s considerably fuller than the vintages around it. Still, it brings abundant enjoyment, just in a different style. Decant. 14.4% alcohol. 410 cases produced. Natural cork.
Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2019 $48
91 points, Critic’s ChoiceSophisticated apple, pear, lees, and spice aromas lead to well-balanced straw and mineral flavors, with stone fruit nuances. It’s all about delicacy. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. 13.0% alcohol. 370 cases produced. Natural cork.
Aubaine Athas Anahata Vineyard Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills 2020 $45
91 pointsAromas of spice, crayon, and squash lead to lighter-bodied flavors. The palate is lower in alcohol, bringing less weight and feel. There’s plenty of flavor, however. Pair it with Dungeness crab cocktail. 12% alcohol. 140 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Aubaine Anahata Vineyard Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills 2020 $45
90 pointsCardamom, spice, roasted squash, and straw aromas lead to well-balanced flavors on the lighter side of medium-bodied, backed by lemony acidity. It’s a very pretty interpretation of the variety. 12.8% alcohol. 258 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Succession Conner Lee Vineyards Chardonnay Wahluke Slope 2021 $34
90 pointsThough labeled as Wahluke Slope, fruit for this wine actually comes from the Radar Hill area near Othello, outside of that appellation’s boundaries. Fermented and aged in 58% new French oak with weekly battonage for five months, toasty oak, apple, pear, squash, and pumpkin spice aromas lead to ripe, lightly creamy-feeling flavors. It’s a pleasing, very prototypically varietal wine. 13.8% alcohol. 294 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2016
89 pointsAromas of spice, toast, and lemon curd lead to well-balanced, medium-bodied flavors. There’s textural richness, along with nuance, all in a riper style. It shows more age than one would expect. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 14.1% alcohol. 460 cases produced. Natural cork.
Mark Ryan Chardonnay Olsen Vineyard Yakima Valley 2021 $48
89 pointsForward aromas of peach, herb, mineral, and clarified butter lead to full-bodied, quite ripe fruit flavors. The warmth of the vintage shows. 14.4% alcohol. 573 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
SAUVIGNON BLANC
Savage Grace Red Willow Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley 2021 $32
93 points, Critic's ChoiceComing from one of the state’s most highly regarded vineyards from the Les Vignes de Marcoux block, this wine is a field blend of eight clones. Native fermented with skin contact and aged five months in neutral oak, the aromas are alluring, with notes of lemon pith, talc, herb, and flower. A flavorful palate follows, with puckering, nervy acidity. A long, long finish caps it off. The balance of feel, flavor intensity, and acidity is completely captivating. 12% alcohol. 167 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Alta Rose Bud Vineyards Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Wahluke Slope 2021 $30
87 pointsAll of the fruit for this wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel. Aromas of tin, grapefruit, and herb lead to medium-bodied, somewhat heavy-feeling flavors. It doesn’t fully stand up on its own. 13.5% alcohol. 213 cases produced. Screwcap.
Succession Famiglia Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Ancient Lakes 2021 $32
87 pointsThis wine was stainless steel fermented and aged. It shows some reduction out of the gate. Beyond that are subdued aromas of passion fruit, musk, and white grapefruit. Medium-plus bodied, textured flavors follow. 13.8% alcohol. 369 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
OTHER WHITES
Savage Grace Underwood Mountain Gruner Veltliner 2021 $36
93 points, Critic’s ChoiceWashington Gruner remains a rarity, but this is one of the wineries leading the way. It was given 5-10 hours of skin contact, whole cluster pressed in neutral French oak for fermentation, and then aged 12 months in oak. The variety is immediately identifiable, with notes of lentil, pepper, citrus, and herb. A richly textured palate follows, with bright acidity boosting it all. The balance is dazzling – an accomplishment for this variety in the state. 12.5% alcohol. 117 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Savage Grace Oak Ridge Vineyard Skin Contact Gewurztraminer Columbia Gorge 2021 $36
92 points, Critic’s ChoiceOrange wines remain a rarity in Washington, but with wines like this, that seems sure to change. It comes from a site at 1,400 feet in elevation. Whole berry fermented 23 days on skins before being barrel aged in neutral oak, it’s a cloudy pale peach color (no fining or filtration). The aromas immediately identify it as Gewurztraminer, with notes of ginger, lychee, and flower. The bone-dry palate brings intrigue, flavor, and textural richness, along with a lightly grainy feel. What more could one ask for from this style? 12.5% alcohol. 99 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Alta Native River Vineyards Albariño Columbia Valley 2021 $30
89 pointsStainless steel fermented and aged, the aromas bring notes of herb, green flower, green melon, and licorice. Medium-bodied, well-balanced flavors follow, lingering on the finish. There’s a lot to like. 13.2% alcohol. 203 cases produced. Screwcap.
ROSÉ
Stoller Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette Valley 2022 $28
91 points, Critic’s ChoiceThis is an aromatically expressive rosé, with notes of kiwi, cantaloupe, peach, and flower. Plentiful, juicy, bright tropical fruit flavors follow. It’s an enjoyable, very fruit-driven offering. 12.5% alcohol. 17,800 cases produced. Screwcap.
Chehalem Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette Valley 2022 $28
90 pointsThere’s just a tinge of color here. The aromas are forward, with notes of green melon, strawberry, and whiffs of papaya. Fuller-feeling but still brisk kiwi and passion fruit flavors follow. There’s plenty of acidity to stitch it all together. Those looking for a fruity rosé, look no further. 12.5% alcohol. 2,950 cases produced. Screwcap.
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