Sean P. Sullivan's Northwest Wine Report

After a long, pandemic-related pause, Cayuse Weekend – also referred to as Spring Kickoff – returns to Walla Walla Valley April 7th through 9th. It’s a chance for list members to visit the valley, pick up their new wines, and sample future releases. (Cayuse allowed members to pick up wines in 2022 but did not hold its customary tasting event.) It is also an opportunity to visit with old friends and seek out new ones.

Earlier this month Sokol Blosser in Willamette Valley’s Dundee Hills announced that CEO and co-president Alison Sokol Blosser would step down to spend more time with her children. Her brother Alex, who has run the company with her since taking it over from their mother in 2008, now has the sole title of president.

As co-president, Alex was in charge of the winegrowing and making. Going forward, Robin Howell has been elevated to winemaker. Howell started out at Sokol Blosser as enologist in 2012 and most recently served as associate winemaker.

Here, I talk with Alex Sokol Blosser about what’s coming next for the winery, which was founded in 1971. The interview has been edited for length and clarity.

Congratulations on becoming president.

Thanks. It’s bittersweet. I loved being winemaker. That was something that I enjoyed doing tremendously since 2012. That being said, I was really excited to hand the baton to my associate winemaker, Robin Howell. I’ve been making wine with her since 2012. She'll be able to even take it to the next level.

Are you going to remain involved in production in any way?

Robin is still going to be inviting me to all the blendings, tastings, and whatnot. So I'll still be doing some of that, which I love. I am still operating and overseeing all of vineyards, which I'm thrilled about because that definitely keeps you grounded.

As you settle into your new position, what are other things you’re immediately focused on?

In the family business, one thing that's always been drilled into Alison and myself is that you can make great wine, but if you can't sell it, you're nowhere. So the challenge of remaining relevant in the marketplace with your messaging is so, so important, and relevancy changes every couple of years.

How do you try and accomplish that?

Our goal is always to make the top wines coming out of the state every vintage, and that in amongst itself is a challenge. How people access wine changes, how people buy wine changes, and sometimes those are subtle changes.

So much of what we do is, I make wine the way I love it. What I find is our customers love it too once they hear that story. So it's telling the story about why I made the wine in a certain way, or why Robin made the wine a certain way, and getting people to catch that vision. Ultimately, I think Sokol Blosser is going to succeed or fail based on how well we are telling our story.

Do you see how you approach that differing with a change in generations?

I do. It's not to say that Millennials or Gen Zs won't like that same message. It's not just that they only want to drink spirits. They need to hear the story in a certain way that resonates with them.

I think they will be into wine because they care about the environment. They want things that are real. They want to have relationships with brands, all the right stuff. We just need to talk to them in a way or communicate in a way that they will embrace it.

We're often our own worst enemy in the industry in terms of making it too intimidating. I don't have all the answers, but I'm gonna keep trying to figure it out.

How do you see the entry tier Evolution wines fitting into that mission of appealing to a different audience?

Evolution, we're driving the value into that wine, trying to get something that we're proud of, that we want to drink from an entry-level standpoint, that also speaks to people at that price point.

If you're spending $22 on a bottle of our current vintage 2021 Evolution Pinot Noir, our hope is consumers taste that. They read the story on the bottle. They see its Evolution by Sokol Blosser. They see the Sokol Blosser story, and it creates an interest in potentially going up that ladder to our Dundee Hills, our Yamhill-Carlton Vineyard, Kalita, to Blossom Ridge Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills. It's another way for us to tell our story in a way that's definitely more affordable.

In terms of the market, what types of changes having you been seeing at the winery?

What is ticking up consistently for us is Sokol Blosser. Buying the 22.3-acre Kalita Vineyard in 2021, that definitely allows us to make more of our estate Pinot Noir.

We're up to about 128 acres on our estate here, the Dundee Hills, Yamhill-Carlton, and Blossom Ridge. So with that, 2022 will be our biggest production year making Sokol Blosser estate wines than ever before. We will continue to increase that. Our estate wines were in that 30,000 case range. We'd like to get up to 40,000 cases. That will take our current vineyards, and we’ll look at vineyards in some other areas as well.

Where are you planning to look?

We're looking at soils. We have deep volcanic [soils] here in the Dundee Hills. We have shallow volcanic [soils] with Blossom Ridge in the Eola-Amity Hills. We have marine sedimentary [soils] in Yamhill-Carlton. What we don't have is that windblown soil, that loess.

Tasting wines on the northern side of the Chehalem Mountains that are in that soil, I think those are some compelling wines. Those are wines that are unique because of that soil. I'm very interested in that.

What other trends are you seeing in Willamette Valley?

Pinot Noir still is the number one by far, but there's more playing here in the valley. We’re part of that trend as well. I'm buying as much Sauvignon Blanc as I can get my hands on. That's direct-to-consumer only. We don't make enough of it to send into distribution.

You launched the Bluebird Sparkling wine label in 2018. Talk to us about that wine and how that fits into the bigger picture at the winery.

For Bluebird, we're trying to keep it at that $36 price. The blend is Pinot Noir, Chardonnay. We add in some estate Riesling and some Mueller Thurgau and just a touch of Muscat and keep it en tirage for about a year.

It's not going to be the brioche-y flavor. It's gonna be more of that reductionist, purity of fruit sparkling wine. We are continuing to increase how much we make and continuing to spread the distribution out across the United States on that wine. We're very bullish on sparkling right now.

As you take on running the winery in full, what are you hoping it looks like in the future?

My goal, and this is continuing on from my sister, is not only for Sokol Blosser to be known as a Pinot Noir house. We want to be known as sparkling house too, and that is not easy. Give me another 10, 20 years and see if we can get that moniker of a sparkling wine house on there.

Image by Carolyn Wells-Kramer, courtesy of Sokol Blosser. 

Sean Boyd of Sightglass Cellars in Woodinville grew up in the wine industry.

Born in Colorado, Boyd spent his early years in San Diego where his father, Gerald D. Boyd, was editor of Wine Spectator in its earliest days when it was a newspaper. The family subsequently moved to the Bay Area with the business. Gerald later went on to write about wine for the San Francisco Chronicle.

One of Sean Boyd’s earliest jobs was working in the wine department at San Mateo’s Liquor Barn, an area retail store. He was selling wine before he was even 21. Boyd enjoyed the work but was looking for a change.

His father talked to a colleague who was then the winemaker at Geyser Peak in California and was also the former winemaker at Penfolds in Australia. He offered to set Sean up with a harvest job making wine at Penfolds.

“That's set in motion the whole thing,” Boyd says of his winemaking career.

The “boomerang pass” 

In 1991, Boyd put all of his possessions into storage and flew to Australia. He spent the next series of months working harvest. It was, to say the least, a sharp adjustment.

“The first few weeks, I thought it was the worst thing I'd ever done,” Boyd recalls. “It was so much hard work.”

Soon, Boyd found himself entranced by winemaking.

“There’s so much change every day,” he says. “I loved the camaraderie. It was physical. I got to be outside, even though it was hotter than blazes.”

For his travel, Boyd bought a “boomerang pass” that allowed him to travel extensively, touring Australia, New Zealand, Fiji, and Honolulu. Then he headed back the U.S and resumed selling wine, this time at BevMo in South San Francisco.

In 1993, Boyd decided to work harvest again both in the northern and southern hemispheres. The former he spent at Miguel Torres near Barcelona, Spain, then toured places in Europe and Asia before heading down to Australia a second time to work at Rosemount Estate. Again, he went back to selling wine once he returned to the U.S.

For his third and final international winemaking trip, Boyd realized he could work harvest in Australia and then move down to do another in New Zealand, spending the former at McQuigan Brothers and then Morton Estate in Katikati, New Zealand.

“That’s where I got my Sauvignon Blanc passion,” Boyd says of his Kiwi experience.

“I had only two contacts”

Returning to the U.S., Boyd worked for future mayor and governor Gavin Newsom at his wine shop in San Francisco, Plumpjack Wine & Spirits. It was not a good fit, with Boyd turned off by his snooty co-workers.

“They were the most snobby, uptight wine people I've ever known,” Boyd says.

Needing another change, at his father’s recommendation, he decided to move to Washington to check out the area’s emerging wine scene. His father gave him two names.

“The only two contacts I had were Bob Betz and David Lake,” says Boyd. These were two of the most prominent people in the Washington industry. Betz was working for Chateau Ste Michelle in Woodinville at that time and would later found Betz Family Winery. Lake, meanwhile, was winemaker at nearby Columbia Winery.

This was early 1998, when Woodinville’s wine scene was still in its infancy. There was opportunity for sure, but Boyd’s timing was not good.

“February is not a time where you really need a lot of people at the winery,” he says.

Lake said Boyd could work in the tasting room on days when the train showed up, off-loading large numbers of visitors at the winery’s doors. He split his time there and selling wine at Pete’s Wine Shop in Bellevue, where he would work for the next six-plus years.

“There was this fun community thing going on.”

Things broke for Boyd when Stan Barrett, a local businessman, decided he wanted to open a wine co-op in Woodinville. Barrett was inspired by Napa Wine Company. Woodinville Wine Company would be Woodinville’s 12th bonded winery, moving into the facility formerly used to produce Silver Lake’s sparkling wine.

Tom Barton was the winery compliance bookkeeper working with Woodinville Wine Company and knew Boyd from Pete’s. He connected the two, and in 2002, Boyd began moonlighting as part-time assistant winemaker while still working full-time at Pete’s.

A who’s who of future winemakers in Woodinville would make or store wine at Woodinville Wine Company in those early years, including Mark McNeilly (Mark Ryan), Chris Gorman (Gorman), Tim Stevens (Stevens), Matt Loso (then of Matthews, Page), and others.

“There was this movement in Woodinville of these people with a really great drive and a wonderful marketing sense,” Boyd says. “There was this fun community.”

Come late 2005, Boyd became head winemaker. He began to put his stamp on the wines, adding Stillwater Creek Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay from Conner Lee Vineyard, and other fruit sources. The Chardonnay was inspired by now-defunct Buty Winery.

“When I moved to Washington and worked at Pete's, I had a Buty Conner Lee [Vineyard] Chardonnay that just blew my mind,” Boyd says.

“Concentrating on great Washington vineyards”

Over time, Woodinville Wine Company evolved into Woodinville Wine Cellars, after the last of the people using the alternating proprietorship moved out. The wines were always high quality, but the winery made for an odd visit.

Owner Stan Barrett was also the North American distributor or Lacanche French ranges. As a result, a large part of the facility was used as a showroom, the rest for production.

Boyd, meanwhile, became increasingly known in the area for his humble nature and quality wines, with a number of them developing a strong following. His Little Bear Creek Red, named for the creek that ran behind the winery, would be a consistent standout as a value Bordeaux-style blend. The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon also made waves, with Doug Charles of Compass Wines in Anacortes calling it the “eagle eater” after it bested a bottle of Screaming Eagle in a blind tasting with customers.

While the wines have consistently drawn praise, Boyd always kept them centered around a simple concept. “My focus has always been concentrating on great Washington vineyards,” he says.

After a point, Barrett decided that he wanted to get out of the wine business. While Boyd briefly considered buying the winery, he ultimately decided to start anew.

“He said the magic words”

Starting over after nearly 15 years at Woodinville Wine Cellars was not an easy decision, however. “I was scared to put my foot in the water,” Boyd recalls.

He talked to friend and fellow winemaker John Bigelow at nearby JM Cellars about his situation. Bigelow told him he could start making his wines at JM. It was exactly what Boyd needed to hear.

“He said the magic words.”

In June of 2016, Boyd and his wife Kristin Jostad struck out on their own. Boyd purchased 20-some odd barrels of his best wine from Woodinville Wine Cellars to launch his project. He also kept his fruit contracts from the last decade.

In February of 2017, Boyd released his first wines under the Sightglass Cellars label. Boyd explains the origins of the name as follows.

“Through the process of racking, you're separating solids from clean wine. You’re doing that using a sightglass to see where the clear wine is. That's always, to me, a very hands-on, important part of the process.”

At his new winery, Boyd has kept much the same as where he started. He crafts an Artz Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc. He makes perhaps the state’s best unoaked Chardonnay from Conner Lee. His entry-level red wine has taken the place of Little Bear Creek and remains a top value. There have been changes as well, with vineyards moving in or out and tinkering with the lineup.

In 2018, Boyd moved production from JM Cellars to the Artisan Hill area of Woodinville. This month, he relocated into a facility next door that increases the winery’s footprint by over 1,000 feet. The facility will have dedicated barrel storage space and also new equipment.

“We want to keep upping the ante on the wines,” Boyd says of the move.

Unassuming by nature, this is what Sean Boyd has done for over 20 years in Woodinville: upping the ante and largely letting the wines speak for themselves.

The new tasting room/production facility will have its first club member-only event this weekend and then be open to the general public starting the following weekend. As he has throughout his career, Boyd will quietly keep building his brand the old-fashioned way.

“Word of mouth is huge for us,” he says.

I had the great pleasure recently of talking with Mike Stone on The TallMikeWine Podcast, heard in 47 states plus the District of Columbia as well as 57 countries on six continents.

Mike and I discuss how a love of mountaineering in general and Mount Rainier in particular drew me to the Pacific Northwest from the east coast. We talk about how my habit of note-taking accidentally led to a career in wine writing. We discuss Walla Walla Valley, with a swirl and shout out to Pášxa. We also discuss how I approach wine reviewing, what I think is coming next for the Pacific Northwest, and more.

70+ wines reviewed below, including the latest from Alta, Anderson Family, Aubaine, Blackboard by Matthews, Chehalem, Fielding Hills, Mark Ryan, Prospice, Savage Grace, Stoller, Succession, Toil Oregon, Trothe, and Virtue.

No one in Washington is making wines like Michael Savage at Savage Grace. Savage moved to the Columbia Gorge in recent years after purchasing part of Underwood Mountain Vineyards. He’s continued to focus on lower alcohol, low oak, and minimal intervention wines from single vineyards that he feels have something important to say. I’ve been tasting Savage’s wines from the beginning, and the current releases are among his very best – all dynamic, unique, and achingly pure. These are wines worth seeking out. Better still, visit the winery.

Trothe is a new project from the Andrews family, who have been farming in the Horse Heaven Hills for four generations. No one knows this land better. The wine is made by Ray McKee, former red winemaker at Chateau Ste Michelle. Few have as much experience working with this fruit. The results from the 2020 are magical. This is a top-end endeavor aiming to place Horse Heaven Hills more prominently on the world wine map. With wines like these, they seem sure to succeed.

Prospice founders Matt Reilly and Jay Krutulis met as students at the Institute for Enology and Viticulture at Walla Walla Community College. They launched Prospice in 2017 and have quickly become one of the most exciting young wineries in the state. Some of the wines below are among the duo’s best to date.

The reviews below also include a look at Chardonnay and Pinot Noir verticals from Anderson Family in Dundee Hills, all current releases. These estate wines come from a vineyard planted in 1992 and were all made “from the same vines in the same way,” says owner Cliff Anderson. They offer a fascinating look at vintage variation and site. The Pinot Noirs bring the intensity and detail one expects from Dundee Hills and are delicious in their own right. But it was the Anderson Chardonnays that I was most struck by, each showing a nuanced style and consistency in expression.

Since 2000, Fielding Hills winemaker Mike Wade has focused on unabashedly bold, estate wines from the family’s Riverbend Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. If you’re looking for straight up delicious reds, look no further.

Finally, Succession is a young winery located in Manson, Washington, in the Lake Chelan appellation. The winery makes a diverse set of wines, all with a distinctive style that shows elegance and intensity. It is well worth a stop for people traveling to the appellation.

Look for upcoming feature articles on some of these wineries.

NB: I have now started to list all closure types after the reviews, not just alternative closures.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Trothe Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $239
96 points, Cellar Stocker
Trothe is a new project from the Andrews family that aims to put Horse Heaven Hills more prominently on the world wine map. With wines like this, they will surely succeed. This is 100% varietal, fermented in concrete with extended skin contact and then aged 23 months in 75% new French oak. It spent 13 months in bottle prior to release. Coming from blocks 98 (65%) and 03, it’s aromatically closed initially but still commands attention, with notes of flower, herb, black cherry, and scorched earth. The flavors are focused, supple, polished, and palate coating. It’s exquisitely proportioned, with mesmerizing balance. The finish sails. It's a wine that succeeds not because of brawn, though it has it, but because of sophisticated beauty and balance. In a word, wow. Best from 2030 to 2040. 14.5% alcohol. 250 cases produced. Natural cork.

Prospice Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $55
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Phinny Hill has quickly established itself as one of the top Cabernet Sauvignon sites in Washington. This is a glorious example. The aromas pull you into the glass, with notes of fresh herb, wildflower, tar, plum, black cherry, and fennel. The flavors place the wine squarely on Phinny Hill, with notes of scorched earth, dried leaf, fresh herb, and cherry, showing seamless intensity, impressive purity, and nuance. The tannins are combed to a fine sheen. Very far from a big bruiser, this is classy Washington Cabernet Sauvignon at its finest, coming from a top site and a rising star producer. It’s a spectacular wine with a long life ahead of it. Drink it now or anytime in the next 15 to 20 years. 14.3% alcohol. 147 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Alta Rosebud Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope 2020 $64
91 points
Coming from 1981 plantings, this is 100% varietal. Aromas of raspberry paste, dried herb, fresh pipe tobacco, and dried flower lead to fruit flavors that have impressive presence, layering, and depth. It brings a lot of yum. 14.9% alcohol. 98 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.

Fielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope 2019 $50
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Blended with 4% Syrah and 2% each Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Merlot, red and black licorice aromas are at the fore, followed by vanilla extract, cherry, and sweet spices, mixing fruit and barrel. Rich, full-bodied, creamy-feeling flavors follow. The focus is on hedonism, and it brings it in abundance. 14.9% alcohol. 501 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Prospice Club Exclusive Shaw Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2019 $65
91 points
Still in its shell, this wine brings aromas of tar, dried and fresh black fruit, herb, and anise. Pitch black fruit flavors follow, showing focused intensity. The tannins are polished to a fine sheen. 14.4% alcohol. 72 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Succession Quintessence Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2020 $75
91 points
Quintessence is quickly establishing itself as one of the top Cabernet sites on Red Mountain. The aromas are brooding, with notes of coffee, cocoa, herb, and cherry, all with pleasing detail. Polished, supple, fuller-bodied cocoa and cherry flavors follow. Classy stuff, with the extraction pulled back. 14.5% alcohol. 101 cases produced. Natural cork.

Succession Bacchus Vineyard Block 10 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon White Bluffs 2020 $75
90 points
Bacchus is home to some of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines in Washington. This offering is lightly colored for the variety. The aromas provide appeal, with notes of raspberry, cedar, cherry, and dried leaf. A medium-bodied, fleshy, almost delicate-feeling palate follows. It’s a very pretty interpretation of the variety, ripe but with the extraction and overt tannin structure dialed back.  14.3% alcohol. 95 cases produced. Natural cork.

Virtue Charisma Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $40
90 points
100% varietal, fruit for this wine comes from Conner Lee and Red Mountain Vineyard. Aged 18 months in 25% new French oak, the aromas bring notes of fresh green and savory herb, licorice stick, gardenia, whole peppercorn, and cherry. Medium-bodied , spritely flavors follow, bringing freshness and impeccable balance. It explores the variety’s fresher side. 14.3% alcohol. 97 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Blackboard by Matthews Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $24
89 points
Blended with 11% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, black currant, charcoal, flower, and herb aromas lead to plump feeling black currant flavors with elevated freshness. The oak is pulled way back, yielding a pleasingly unadulterated look at Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.5% alcohol. 1,206 cases produced. Screwcap.

Alta Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $55
88 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Stanton and Bacchus vineyards. Black cherry, dried herb, and ember aromas lead to lighter-styled flavors that paint around the edges. There are good things happening, but it needs a bit more oomph to tie them all together. 14.5% alcohol. 158 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.

Succession Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $50
88 points
This is 100% varietal, with fruit coming from top sites Lawrence, Weinbau, Bacchus, and Quintessence. The aromas bring notes of dark raspberry, plum, anise, allspice, and tire rubber. Ripe fruit flavors follow, focused mostly around the edges, lighter in the middle. 14.9% alcohol. 335 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.


BORDEAUX-STYLE BLENDS

Trothe Limited Red Wine Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $174
95 points, Cellar Stocker
Trothe is a new winery from the Andrews family, who have been farming in the Horse Heaven Hills for four generations. Cabernet Franc makes up two-thirds of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. It was vinified in concrete with extended skin contact and then aged 23 months in 100% new French oak. The aromas are brooding, with notes of dark cherry, plum, barrel spice, cinnamon stick, and anise. Full-feeling, rich, penetrating flavors follow, bringing layers of intensity and richness, mixing fruit and barrel. Firm tannins back it all up. The finish sails – the intensity, knee-buckling. It needs significant time for the tannins to further resolve and show its best but will be more than worth the wait. Enjoy after 2030. 14.8% alcohol. 41 cases produced. Natural cork.

Prospice BDX Columbia Valley 2020 $65
94 points, Critic’s Choice
This is near equal parts Merlot (35%), Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), and Cabernet Franc. Dried and fresh herb, flower, cocoa, black cherry, and tar aromas lead to a luscious, rich, high-thread count, well-balanced dark fruit flavors. Coffee notes linger on the finish. There’s impressive structure around it all. It’s full of hedonism, but with one hand on the throttle – a true stunner and example of the best that 2020 has to offer. 14.4% alcohol. 121 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Blackboard by Matthews Red Wine Columbia Valley 2020 $24
90 points, Critic’s Choice
Blackboard is an entry level project from the folks at Matthews. This is nearly two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, just over a third of Merlot, and a dash of Petit Verdot. Fruit-forward aromas of blackberry, black currant, and black tea lead to plump-feeling dark fruit flavors. There’s no apparent new oak in sight, putting the focus squarely on the ripe fruit. If you want a completely unadulterated look at what these varieties taste like, here it is. 14.5% alcohol. 11,880 cases produced. Screwcap.

Succession Bridge Builder’s Blend Columbia Valley 2020 $49
90 points
This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (44%), Merlot (26%), Cabernet Franc (19%), and Malbec. Aged in 20% new French and Hungarian oak, the aromas bring subdued notes of cigar box, fresh herb, and ember. Soft, ripe, full-bodied black fruit flavors follow, backed by smooth tannins that show just a touch of graininess. 14.5% alcohol. 726 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.

Virtue Fortitude Red Blend Columbia Valley 2020 $32
90 points, Critic’s Choice
This wine has traditionally been Merlot-dominant, but this vintage it is 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, and 21% Malbec. A blend of fruit from Olsen, Conner Lee, and Red Mountain vineyards, it was aged 18 months in second fill and neutral oak. The aromas are unique, with notes of cherry and raspberry jam, along with green flower, tobacco, and a whiff of smoke. The flavors are pure and supple, with a lightly grainy feel. The winemaking is top notch in what was, for many, a challenging year. 14.0% alcohol. 146 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Alta Navigator Columbia Valley 2020 $45
88 points
Merlot makes up half of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Franc (25%), Cabernet Sauvignon (13%), and Malbec. Aromas of black licorice, red and black raspberry, flower, and whole, slightly dried cranberry lead to plump fruit flavors. There’s a pleasing feel to it, but all of the parts don’t quite fit. 13.9% alcohol. 536 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.


MERLOT

Succession Oscar Merlot Columbia Valley 2020 $45
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Fruit for this wine comes from across Columbia Valley, including Quintessence (Red Mountain), Dionysus (White Bluffs), Candy Mountain (Candy Mountain), and Chouette (Lake Chelan) vineyards. It was cold soaked and given an eight-day extended maceration. The aromas are still in their shell initially, with notes of dark cherry, plum, sweet herb, and graphite. Pretty, plump, hyper-polished flavors follow, showing appealing depth and texture to the dark fruit flavors. Soft, supple tannins support it all. It’s a one-wine charm offensive, with an emphasis on elegance. 14.8% alcohol. 449 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.

Fielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Merlot Wahluke Slope 2019 $40
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Blended with 3% Syrah and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, the aromas bring some reduction initially. Following that are notes of cocoa, coffee, herb, cherry, and cherry liqueur. Smooth, well-balanced, full-bodied, creamy-feeling dark fruit flavors follow, speckled with barrel accents. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s tasty, classic Fielding Hills – power mixed with unabashed deliciousness. Decant. 14.7% alcohol. 175 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Succession Quintessence Vineyard Reserve Merlot Red Mountain 2020 $72
90 points
Herb, coffee, anise, cherry, and fruit leather aromas lead to an elegant palate, full of supple dark fruit flavors, mixed with cranberry and currant accents. The fulsome tannins that the appellation is often known for are quite reserved. It’s a pretty wine, surprisingly restrained considering the listed alcohol. 15.1% alcohol. 125 cases produced. Natural cork.

Alta Candy Mountain Vineyards Merlot Candy Mountain 2020 $44
89 points
Fruit for this wine comes from one of Washington’s newest appellation’s. Aromas of cedar, dried herb, dried tobacco, whole cranberry, menthol, flower, and red currant lead to plump dark fruit flavors backed by soft tannins. There’s much to enjoy. 15.1% alcohol. 293 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.

Blackboard by Matthews Merlot Columbia Valley 2020 $24
88 points
This includes 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. The aromas bring notes of plum, cherry, fruit leather, currant, menthol, and ember. Cassis and plum flavors follow. The tannins give a grainy grip, showing some astringency. 14.5% alcohol. 794 cases produced. Screwcap.

Prospice Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2020 $55
88 points
Blended with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, this wine was aged 22 months in French oak (29% new). Reserved aromas of dark raspberry, spice, tobacco, and herb aromas lead to a palate on the lighter side of medium-bodied, with a lightly grainy feel. The variety is somewhat hard to place. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 14.5% alcohol. 120 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.


CABERNET FRANC

Savage Grace Copeland Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rattlesnake Hills 2019 $36
93 points, Critic’s Choice
No one in Washington makes Cabernet Franc like Michael Savage at Savage Grace. The aromas erupt from the glass, with notes of raspberry, fresh herb, pepper, and flower. Soft, exquisitely balanced, achingly pure flavors follow. It’s a standout wine that sings from the rooftops. Pair it with smoked spare ribs. 12.5% alcohol. 364 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Fielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope 2019 $42
91 points
Fruit and barrel intertwine on the aromas, with notes of cocoa, coffee, and dark cherry. Full-feeling, creamy dark fruit flavors follow, with notes of vanilla threaded throughout. It mixes fruit and barrel in equal parts. 14.6% alcohol. 238 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Virtue Temperance Cabernet Franc Royal Slope 2020 $38
89 points
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Stoneridge Vineyard, one of the most distinctive sites in the state. The aromas show notes of green and savory herb, raspberry, and flower. Pure, lightly smoky, grainy-feeling flavors follow. There’s some smoke impact here, but it’s slight enough many might not notice. If so, there’s even more enjoyment to be had. 14.3% alcohol. 49 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Alta Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2020 $45
88 points
This wine is somewhat lighter in color for the appellation and vintage. Aromas of cigar box, cedar, crushed flower, red fruit, and a whiff of smoke lead to plump-feeling, elegantly styled red fruit flavors. It’s a pretty interpretation of this variety. 14.8% alcohol. 238 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.

Prospice Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley 2020 $55
88 points
The aromas offer appeal, with notes of dried herb, ember, cedar, and black cherry. The palate is sumptuous, fuller feeling around the edges, with a soft feel. There’s pleasing freshness, with lightly gritty tannins. Smoky notes are threaded throughout. 14.3% alcohol. 95 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Succession Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2020 $50
88 points
This is 100% varietal, with fruit coming from Quintessence (Red Mountain, 57%) and Weinbau (Wahluke) vineyards. Aged in 28% new French and Hungarian oak, the aromas are reserved, with notes of ember, smoke, and herb. There’s pleasing balance to the lighter seeming flavors. Soft structure backs it up, with a graininess to the tannin. 14.4% alcohol. 328 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.


MALBEC

Savage Grace Dineen Vineyard Côt Rattlesnake Hills 2019 $36
93 points, Critic’s Choice
The aromas show Malbec at its essence, with notes of dried flower, plum, herb, black pepper, and dried tangerine rind. Laser-focused, hyper-pure, lip-smacking flavors follow, offering a feeling of fullness while remaining fleet of foot. It’s breathtaking – unlike anything else coming from the state. Pair it with grilled skirt steak topped with chimichurri. 11.5% alcohol. 336 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Virtue Vitality Conner Lee Vineyard Malbec Columbia Valley 2020 $38
91 points
Conner Lee is a cooler site and the most prominent vineyard that does not currently lie within a sub-appellation of Columbia Valley. Aged 18 months in 66% new Hungarian and American oak, the aromas pop, with notes of tangerine essence, plum, dried herb, dried twig, a light savory note, and a whiff of smoke and menthol. Medium-bodied, fruit-forward flavors follow. It hangs on the finish. It’s a very pretty offering of the variety, made in a reserved style. 13.8% alcohol. 71 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Alta Stanton Vineyard Malbec Red Mountain 2020 $48
88 points
Aromas of cocoa, orange essence, cola, cinnamon, plum, and dash of celery salt lead to soft, plump-feeling plum and barrel flavors. It’s interesting, though the aromas and flavors don’t entirely sync. 14.7% alcohol. 170 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.

Fielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Malbec Wahluke Slope 2019 $48
88 points
The aromas are high-pitched, with notes of vanilla, cocoa, and purple fruit. Vanilla and plum flavors follow, with a smooth feel. Coffee notes linger on the finish. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 14.1% alcohol. 272 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Succession Malbec Columbia Valley 2020 $46
88 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Antoine Creek (70%) and Weinbau vineyards, a cooler site and a warmer one. Aged in 15% new French oak with the rest a mixture of used French and American, aromas of cinnamon stick, potpourri, black licorice, coffee, and celery salt lead to bright, plump, medium-bodied flavors. It’s interesting, and the feel is appealing. The variety is challenging to find, however. 14.8% alcohol. 242 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.


OTHER BORDEAUX VARIETIES

Succession Weinbau Reserve Petit Verdot Wahluke Slope 2020 $78
91 points
This is 100% varietal, aged in 66% new French oak. The aromas bring notes of purple flower, green herb, cherry, and coffee. Ripe, fuller-feeling flavors follow. The variety’s impressive acid carries it. 14.7% alcohol. 76 cases produced. Natural cork.

Alta Weinbau Vineyard Reserve Carménère Wahluke Slope 2020 $75
88 points
Carménère is a rarity in Washington but does well here. All aged in neutral oak, the aromas show notes of spicy pepper and cherry. The flavors are fuller in the middle, lighter around the edges. Still, it’s interesting. 14.9% alcohol. 23 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.


SYRAH, GRENACHE, AND RHÔNE-STLYE BLENDS

Succession The Rocks Ancient Stone Reserve Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2020 $80
93 points
Fermented with 30% stem inclusion and then aged in 29% new 500L French oak puncheons for 20 months, the aromas pop, with notes of wild blueberry, kirsch, pepper, orange rind, flower, and plum, showing dazzling purity. It fully delivers on that promise, with ultra-soft, palate-coating, pure flavors. The flavors are rich but also show pleasing restraint. It’s a head turner. Rocks fans who are looking for fruit purity without the funk, give this wine a look. 13.8% alcohol. 187 cases produced. Natural cork.

Virtue Enthusiasm Thunderstone Vineyard Grenache Royal Slope 2020 $35
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Whole berry fermented and aged 18 months in second-fill French oak, aromas of violet essence, dried tangerine peel, and black raspberry lead to supple, textured fruit flavors. The purity is impressive, as is the textural richness. The fruit profile isn’t immediately identifiable as Grenache, though it’s delicious all the same, ramping up in intensity with time open. Give it some time in bottle or a short decant to see it at its best. 14.3% alcohol. 50 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Fielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Syrah Wahluke Slope 2019 $42
91 points
Blended with 4% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aromas of blackberry, bramble, herb, and barrel spice lead to full-bodied, creamy-feeling dark fruit flavors that coat the palate from end-to-end. A yum ball of a wine, the enjoyment is as much about feel as flavor. 14.8% alcohol. 278 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Succession Syrah Yakima Valley 2020 $50
90 points
This is a blend of fruit from Quintessence (78%) and Candy Mountain, two hot sites. Co-fermented with 2.5% Viognier and aged in 25% new oak, aromas of black fruit and hard candy lead to a full-bodied palate. There’s pleasing purity to the (quite) ripe fruit flavors that continues through the finish. It’s an unabashedly warm site, warm vintage offering and pulls it off in spades. 14.9% alcohol. 510 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.

Virtue Sincerity Wallula Vineyard Syrah Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $38
89 points
This is all Sara Lee clone from 1999 plantings. Whole berry fermented, the aromas offer notes of coffee, green olive, and Robitussin, mixing fruit and savory. Medium-bodied smoked meat flavors follow, thinning slightly toward the finish. There are good pieces, but not quite a whole. 14.2% alcohol. 94 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Virtue Unity GSM Red Wine Columbia Valley 2020 $32
89 points
Syrah makes up 48% of this wine, with the rest Grenache (27%), and Mourvèdre. Aged 18 months in a blend of second fill and neutral oak, the aromas are brooding initially, with notes of green flower, freshly peeled orange rind, plum, and a whiff of smoke. The hyper-pure flavors that this winery is known for are there on the palate, backed by a lightly grainy feel. 14.2% alcohol. 50 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.


PINOT NOIR

Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2018 $56
93 points, Cellar Stocker
All coming from the winery’s estate vineyard, the aromas are pleasing, with notes of cherry, spice, tea, and cola. Supple, broad-feeling, well-balanced flavors follow, gliding on the finish. It’s a classic Dundee Hills-style wine from a strong vintage. Best after 2025 with a long life beyond that. 13.8% alcohol. 1,300 cases produced. Natural cork.

Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2019 $56
92 points, Critic’s Choice
This hails from a true throw-back vintage for the state. Coming in at a mere 12.4% alcohol, cola, tobacco, dried orange peel, and baking spice aromas are followed by black tea flavors that show grace and length. Beautiful stuff. 12.4% alcohol. 1,300 cases produced. Natural cork.

Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2016 $56
92 points, Cellar Stocker
Earth, cinnamon stick, anise, and dried cherry aromas are followed by medium-bodied, well-balanced darker fruit flavors that show depth and length. It’s captivating. Decant or enjoy after 2025. 13.5% alcohol. 1,130 cases produced. Natural cork. NB: First bottle showed significant reduction.

Aubaine Anahata Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 2019 $50
92 points, Cellar Stocker
This wine shows some reduction initially. Beyond that the aromas offer notes of black tea, spice, dried flower, and whole satsuma. Broad-feeling but still light, fresh flavors follow, showing depth and intensity while remaining fleet of foot. Lightly grainy tannins back it up. It’s thoroughly delightful. Give it time in bottle or a long decant. Best after 2025. 13.1% alcohol. 495 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Succession Antoine Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir Columbia Valley 2020 $46
92 points
Pinot Noir is Washington’s white whale. Fermented with 15% stem inclusion and then aged 18 months in 22% new Burgundy barrels, the aromas are appealing, with notes of dried tangerine rind, cola, cedar, and spice. A transparently styled, rounded, well-balanced palate follows. It’s an intriguing statement of the possibilities of Pinot Noir in this part of Columbia Valley. 13.7% alcohol. 224 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.

Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2017 $56
91 points
Aromas of strawberry, mushroom, spice box, pepper, dried orange rind, and black tea lead to elegant, refined, juicy fruit and earth flavors. Cinnamon notes linger on the finish. The fruit seems slightly dried out on an otherwise lovely wine. That said, it still has plenty of life in front of it. 13.5% alcohol. 1,470 cases produced. Natural cork.

Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2015 $56
91 points
The aromas offer notes of cinnamon stick, cherry, cola, and herb. Dark fruit flavors are backed by taut tannins with a lightly sandy feel. It’s still largely slumbering at present. Cellar or decant. 13.3% alcohol. 1,450 cases produced. Natural cork. NB: First bottle showed some oxidation.

Anderson Family Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2014 $56
90 points
This wine is starting to show some pleasing bottle age notes, with aromas of earth, dried cherry, mushroom, cola, licorice, and cinnamon stick. Medium-bodied flavors follow, showing the muscle of the appellation and vintage while still retaining juicy acidity. It’s in a pretty spot. 13.2% alcohol. 1,300 cases produced. Natural cork

Toil Oregon Pinot Noir Oregon 2021 $50
90 points
A project from Figgins Family Wine Estates, aromas of fresh and crushed flower, whole satsuma, tea, plum, and spice lead to broad-feeling plum and cherry flavors. It offers plenty of textural appeal, with juicy satsuma and dark fruit flavors winding through the finish. 13.6% alcohol. 220 cases produced. Natural cork.

Ashyln Heart of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $25
88 points
The aromas are reduced initially, causing some distraction. Beyond that are notes of metal, cigar box, and cherry. The palate has fuller-feeling flavors of black tea and cherry. It’s an enjoyable, value-priced bottle. 14.0% alcohol. 900 cases produced. Screwcap.


RED BLENDS

Fielding Hills Riverbend Vineyard Estate Tribute Wahluke Slope 2019 $40
91 points
This is a Merlot-driven offering (57%), backed with Cabernet Sauvignon (31%) and Syrah. Blackberry jam, licorice, dried herb, vanilla, and dried rose petal aromas lead to pitch black fruit flavors. The palate shows ripeness and intensity. 14.8% alcohol. 514 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Alta District No. 5 Red Blend Columbia Valley 2020 $68
91 points
Tempranillo makes up half of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (25%), Carménère (13%), and Petit Verdot. Seeing just a kiss of new oak (9%), the aromas offer purity and appeal, with notes of raspberry, pencil eraser, cedar, and herb. Plump, luscious fruit flavors follow, with the tannins pulled back. It’s straight up, unabashed enjoyment. 14.5% alcohol. 100 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.

Savage Grace X-Block Underwood Mountain Vineyard Field Blend Columbia Gorge 2021 $42
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Michael Savage is making some of the most exciting wines in Washington, with much of the fruit coming from an extinct volcano, Underwood Mountain, located 1,100-feet above sea level in a sub-alpine forest. Aromas of brambly blue fruit, herb, dried flower, star anise, and cinnamon stick lead to lighter-styled, supremely fresh, crunchy fruit flavors backed by bright acid and firm tannins. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. Grilled lamb chops should do. 12.5% alcohol. 85 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.



CHARDONNAY

Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2020 $48
94 points, Critic’s Choice
The aromas offer nuance and detail, with notes of struck flint, yellow apple, pear, and corn silk. An exquisite palate follows, with elegance, acidity, and detail while remaining beautifully understated. A lingering finish caps it off. It’s spectacular. 13.4% alcohol. 275 cases produced. Natural cork.

Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2017 $48
92 points
The apple, clarified butter, straw, and herb aromas show just a touch of age, as does the coloring. Fuller feeling flavors follow, revealing generous texture and a pleasing uptick in acidity. The balance and length impress, as does the ultra-long finish. It’s a classical style of Chardonnay, almost more Old World than New in some respects. 13.9% alcohol. 550 cases produced. Natural cork.

Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2015 $48
91 points
Hailing from the hot 2015 vintage, the aromas show notes of cardamom, pear, and apple, bringing sophistication. A richly textured palate follows, showing some warmth on the finish. 14.3% alcohol. 525 cases produced. Natural cork.

Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2018 $48
91 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of spice, struck flint, squash, and clarified butter. Focused, supple, somewhat riper-style flavors follow. It’s considerably fuller than the vintages around it. Still, it brings abundant enjoyment, just in a different style. Decant. 14.4% alcohol. 410 cases produced. Natural cork.

Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2019 $48
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Sophisticated apple, pear, lees, and spice aromas lead to well-balanced straw and mineral flavors, with stone fruit nuances. It’s all about delicacy. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. 13.0% alcohol. 370 cases produced. Natural cork.

Aubaine Athas Anahata Vineyard Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills 2020 $45
91 points
Aromas of spice, crayon, and squash lead to lighter-bodied flavors. The palate is lower in alcohol, bringing less weight and feel. There’s plenty of flavor, however. Pair it with Dungeness crab cocktail. 12% alcohol. 140 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Aubaine Anahata Vineyard Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills 2020 $45
90 points
Cardamom, spice, roasted squash, and straw aromas lead to well-balanced flavors on the lighter side of medium-bodied, backed by lemony acidity. It’s a very pretty interpretation of the variety. 12.8% alcohol. 258 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Succession Conner Lee Vineyards Chardonnay Wahluke Slope 2021 $34
90 points
Though labeled as Wahluke Slope, fruit for this wine actually comes from the Radar Hill area near Othello, outside of that appellation’s boundaries. Fermented and aged in 58% new French oak with weekly battonage for five months, toasty oak, apple, pear, squash, and pumpkin spice aromas lead to ripe, lightly creamy-feeling flavors. It’s a pleasing, very prototypically varietal wine. 13.8% alcohol. 294 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.

Anderson Family Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2016
89 points
Aromas of spice, toast, and lemon curd lead to well-balanced, medium-bodied flavors. There’s textural richness, along with nuance, all in a riper style. It shows more age than one would expect. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 14.1% alcohol. 460 cases produced. Natural cork.

Mark Ryan Chardonnay Olsen Vineyard Yakima Valley 2021 $48
89 points
Forward aromas of peach, herb, mineral, and clarified butter lead to full-bodied, quite ripe fruit flavors. The warmth of the vintage shows. 14.4% alcohol. 573 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.


SAUVIGNON BLANC

Savage Grace Red Willow Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley 2021 $32
93 points, Critic's Choice
Coming from one of the state’s most highly regarded vineyards from the Les Vignes de Marcoux block, this wine is a field blend of eight clones. Native fermented with skin contact and aged five months in neutral oak, the aromas are alluring, with notes of lemon pith, talc, herb, and flower. A flavorful palate follows, with puckering, nervy acidity. A long, long finish caps it off. The balance of feel, flavor intensity, and acidity is completely captivating. 12% alcohol. 167 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Alta Rose Bud Vineyards Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Wahluke Slope 2021 $30
87 points
All of the fruit for this wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel. Aromas of tin, grapefruit, and herb lead to medium-bodied, somewhat heavy-feeling flavors. It doesn’t fully stand up on its own. 13.5% alcohol. 213 cases produced. Screwcap.

Succession Famiglia Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Ancient Lakes 2021 $32
87 points
This wine was stainless steel fermented and aged. It shows some reduction out of the gate. Beyond that are subdued aromas of passion fruit, musk, and white grapefruit. Medium-plus bodied, textured flavors follow. 13.8% alcohol. 369 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.


OTHER WHITES

Savage Grace Underwood Mountain Gruner Veltliner 2021 $36
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Washington Gruner remains a rarity, but this is one of the wineries leading the way. It was given 5-10 hours of skin contact, whole cluster pressed in neutral French oak for fermentation, and then aged 12 months in oak. The variety is immediately identifiable, with notes of lentil, pepper, citrus, and herb. A richly textured palate follows, with bright acidity boosting it all. The balance is dazzling – an accomplishment for this variety in the state. 12.5% alcohol. 117 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Savage Grace Oak Ridge Vineyard Skin Contact Gewurztraminer Columbia Gorge 2021 $36
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Orange wines remain a rarity in Washington, but with wines like this, that seems sure to change. It comes from a site at 1,400 feet in elevation. Whole berry fermented 23 days on skins before being barrel aged in neutral oak, it’s a cloudy pale peach color (no fining or filtration). The aromas immediately identify it as Gewurztraminer, with notes of ginger, lychee, and flower. The bone-dry palate brings intrigue, flavor, and textural richness, along with a lightly grainy feel. What more could one ask for from this style? 12.5% alcohol. 99 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.

Alta Native River Vineyards Albariño Columbia Valley 2021 $30
89 points
Stainless steel fermented and aged, the aromas bring notes of herb, green flower, green melon, and licorice. Medium-bodied, well-balanced flavors follow, lingering on the finish. There’s a lot to like. 13.2% alcohol. 203 cases produced. Screwcap.

Ste. Michelle Wine Estates (SMWE), the largest winery in the Pacific Northwest, announced the hiring of Shawn Conway as chief executive officer. Conway will start at the company effective immediately.

“Shawn is a proven leader and the ideal person to help us achieve our strategic vision of sustainable, profitable growth,” said Brian Vos, a SMWE board member and retired CEO of The Wine Group, one of the largest wine companies in the U.S. (Read the full press release.)

Conway brings 30 years of experience to the company across a variety of consumer product categories. He spent the previous 12 years at San Francisco-based Peet’s Coffee, the last two as CEO. Prior to that, Conway served as Peet’s chief supply chain officer, chief operating officer, and chairman of Peet’s Coffee, China.

Before joining Peet’s, Conway was vice president of operations (2005-2010) and vice president of finance and IT (2002-2005) at SKYY Spirits, now known as Campari Group. The company owns a diverse group of brands in the beverage alcohol industry. From 2001 to 2002, he was CFO at THAP Group, a company that delivers health and wellness management services.

From 1998 to 2001, Conway was CFO and vice president of operations at Gateway Learning Corp, an educational products company. Conway has a Bachelor of Science in commerce with a major in finance from Santa Clara University.

“Ste. Michelle has long been one of the most admired and respected wine companies in the world, with a portfolio of iconic and renowned wines,” Conway said in the press release from SMWE. “I look forward to working with this very talented and dedicated team to bring an unparalleled wine experience to our existing customers and extend our reach to the next generation of wine lovers.”

SMWE’s executive leadership team will remain in place and report to Conway. The leadership team was announced last October after the company realigned into three commercial divisions when former CEO David Dearie resigned. Dearie spent two years at the helm of the company.

For the last five months, SMWE’s leadership team has reported to a three-person board, comprised of Vos and individuals at Sycamore Partners. Sycamore is a New York-based private equity firm that purchased SMWE in 2021 for $1.3B in cash.

Conway is Ste. Michelle’s third leader since Ted Baseler retired from the company in 2018 after 17 years as CEO and president. Jim Mortensen served as CEO from 2018 to 2020.

SMWE has been going through other recent changes. In 2022, the company listed its flagship Woodinville property for sale in whole or in part to generate money to reinvest in the brand. Shortly before Dearie’s resignation, SMWE purchased Willamette Valley’s A to Z Wine Works and Rex Hill. This purchase made SMWE the largest winery in both Washington and Oregon.

Last month, Ste Michelle announced a 5% reduction in its workforce. Juan Muñoz-Oca, the company’s chief winemaker, left the company at the beginning of this month to become chief winegrower at California’s O’Neill Vintners and Distillery.

SMWE includes numerous brands in Washington (Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Crest, 14 Hands, Col Solare, Spring Valley, and others), Oregon (Erath, A to Z Wine Works, and Rex Hill), and California (Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and Patz & Hall). Altogether, Ste. Michelle makes approximately 7.3M cases of wine annually.

After four long years away due to a pandemic-related pause, Taste Washington returns this month, with the Grand Tasting March 11th and 12th. Over the years, this event has been a launch pad for many newly minted wineries. Now, some of these wineries have had to wait a very long time for such an opportunity. That time is finally here.

Here are 15 must-try wines at the Grand Tasting from new wineries, most of them pouring at this event for the first time. Wines are listed in alphabetical order.

Devison 2020 Above the Flood Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley In just a few short years, Devison has established itself as one of the most exciting wineries in the state. Devison’s 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (also being poured at this event) is electric, while this GSM from Boushey Vineyard has layers of depth and intensity. Read reviews of Devison’s current releases.

Devium 2021 French Creek Sans Soufre Mourvèdre Yakima Valley By day, Keith Johnson is the  production winemaker at Sleight of Hand Cellars. By night, he focuses on Devium – a project with a rebellious streak, such as producing Mouvèdre without added sulfur. “If I don’t push the boundaries, who is going to do it?” Johnson says. Read a profile of the winery.

Dossier 2021 Syrah Walla Walla Valley Dossier is a new project from former NFL star Sidney Rice and businessman Tim Lenihan. Billo Naravane (Rasa) makes the wine. This Syrah hails from the Rocks District and is an impressive inaugural release. Read a review.

Echolands 2019 Syrah Walla Walla Valley Doug Frost, who co-founded Echolands in 2018 with Brad Bergman, is one of the few people in the world to hold both an MS and an MW degree. Frost’s educational background informs the wine style, which focuses on higher acid wines that go well with food. Taylor Oswald, who has experience at Mark Ryan, Gramercy, and Rôtie, makes the wine. Read a profile of the winery from my time at Wine Enthusiast.

Below is a summary of articles from February 2023. Enjoy!

Summary of Articles for January 2023

Leland Hyatt, founder of Hyatt Vineyards, dies at 85

Sparkling wines are bubbling up in Washington Part I: Appellations and varieties

Sparkling wines are bubbling up in Washington Part II: New facilities & capabilities

Will Beightol named vineyard manager at Aquilini Wines

Recommended Northwest Cabernet Franc

Kathy Shiels, founder of iconic Yakima Valley vineyard and winery, passes away at 72

How big of an issue is cork taint really?

Juan Muñoz-Oca, chief winemaker at Ste. Michelle, to leave and become chief winegrower at California’s O’Neill Vintners & Distillers

2022: Washington’s "impossible" vintage

A look at Washington’s recently approved appellations

Wine Reviews February 27th 2023

40+ wines reviewed below, including the latest from Jaine, Ken Wright, Le Doubblé Troubblé, Massalto, Mongata, Rooted Souls, Sightglass, Soter, Valo, and Walla Walla Vintners.

2021 was a generous vintage for Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, and the Ken Wright ‘21s are thrilling, with appealing fruit purity, intensity, and balance. They also show impressive staying power, which bodes well for their longevity. Fans of this winery, or those looking for an introduction to exceptional Willamette Valley Pinot, take note.

Mongata is a new Walla Walla Valley winery, focusing on fruit from its estate site, Resurgent Vineyard. Resurgent is located near the South Fork of the Walla Walla River, and the site has cobblestone soils that produce unique wines. (See more examples from Prospice.) Mongata’s inaugural releases make them a winery to watch.

Valo and Massalto are two wineries from Matías Kúsulas, who is also head viticulturalist at Lawrence Vineyards. Valo is the more traditional of the two, with most of the fruit coming from esteemed Conner Lee Vineyard. Massalto, meanwhile, is a playground, offering room for experimentation and exploration. The twin wineries have a tasting room in Vancouver, Washington. Kúsulas was also named the winemaker for Desert Wind and Gård in 2021.

Located in the Columbia Gorge, Le Doubblé Troubblé is making well-priced, vivid wines from Washington and Oregon. The winery has a tasting room in White Salmon.

Look for upcoming feature articles on several of these wineries.

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