“We know we’ve got a property that yields delicious wines,” says Hyatt winemaker and consultant Caleb Foster. “Terroir doesn’t really go away. You simply need to take care of it.”

Founded in 1983 by Leland and Lynda Hyatt, Hyatt Vineyards is one of Washington’s oldest wineries. While once among a few handfuls of wineries, Hyatt fell behind in a state that is now home to over 1,000 producers. The winery is looking to catch back up.

“I know there’s greatness out there”

Hiring Foster in 2022 was part of that. He brings to Hyatt over 30 years of wine industry experience.

Foster spent the first seven vintages of his career at Walla Walla Valley’s Woodward Canyon as assistant winemaker. He subsequently worked a year as an enologist at Chateau Ste. Michelle and also spent harvests in New Zealand and Stellenbosch. In 2000, Foster founded Buty Winery as winemaker and co-owner with his then-wife Nina Buty.

In his 12 years at Buty, Foster built a reputation as one of the state’s most talented winemakers. He subsequently worked nearly seven years as winemaker and general manager at J. Bookwalter in Richland.

When Foster joined Hyatt, which is located in the Rattlesnake Hills appellation, it caused some buzz. Foster is similarly excited by the challenge.

“I’m gonna throw my life at this location,” he says. “I know there’s greatness out there.”

Foster was originally brought on, in part, to set Hyatt up for a sale. However, after Leland Hyatt passed away in 2023, the family decided to pivot.

“The second generation family that owns [the winery], they lived the early days,” says Foster. “They remember how great it used to be, they know exactly what it can look like, and so that’s what they’re seeking again.”

“Million dollar views”

While Hyatt has been largely off the radar for some time, the winery has a number of advantages most Washington wineries could only dream of. Hyatt is firmly established in wine country, surrounded by vineyards. The winery also has majestic views, which include Mount Adams and Yakima Valley on a clear day.

“We all have these million dollar views,” Foster says of wineries in the Rattlesnake Hills. “Now it’s about service and about delivering consistency and an overall experience.”

Unlike most Washington wineries, Hyatt also owns nearly 80 acres of vineyards. The vineyards are largely on subsoils derived from the Cascade Mountains to the west, referred to as Ellensburg Formation. This is distinct from the soils of most other appellations in Washington.

Hyatt’s vineyards are also at higher elevation than many in the state. This impacts wine style. “You’ve got slightly more acid that you’re working with, but you can get phenological development here,” Foster says.

Having vineyards that the family has owned for decades also gives Hyatt perhaps its biggest advantage. It can make wine at a lower cost and a higher margin than most other wineries in the state or beyond.

“I think it’s a rare American winery today that has the low cost operating budget that we have,” Foster says.

“An alternate experience”

Caleb Foster, Hyatt Vineyards

Foster has spent his first two-plus years at Hyatt getting to know the vineyards and transitioning them to where he wants them. That remains an on-going process.

“I’m seeing really good flavors come back out of the land and seeing really good character being able to be built,” Foster says.

While Hyatt looks to reestablish itself, the Rattlesnake Hills is working to improve its image as well. A group of winery and vineyard owners banded together recently to promote the area as The Hills. (The appellation name itself will not be changed.) The group is planning to leverage the appellation’s location, scenery, and wine tourism to raise the area’s profile.

Wine tourism certainly seems to be low-hanging fruit. The Rattlesnake Hills is just a 2.5 hour drive from the Seattle metropolitan area and its 4M people. That makes it one of eastern Washington’s closest wine regions to the city. Additionally, thousands of wine tourists already travel through the area.

“80% of the people who go to Walla Walla arrive by car, and they go down highway 82. They’re one mile away,” Foster says. “It’s about communicating that their experience is going to be lovely [at Hyatt] as an alternate experience, not a replacement, but as an option.”

“We’ve got to go get those people”

The 2022 vintage Hyatt wines are the first red wines that Foster has managed end-to-end. The 2022 Saperavi, which is a Georgian variety that is rare in Washington, is thrilling.

“It’s a wild wine,” Foster says. “It’s like an amazing combination of Zinfandel , really good Barbera, and a really spicy Malbec.”

In addition to hiring Foster, there have been other changes at the winery. Ashley Koempel was brought on as general manager in May. Koempel previously worked as tasting room lead at Owen Roe before transitioning to the marketing team at Vintage Wine Estates after Owen Roe was acquired.

Hyatt’s labels have been refreshed. The website has been redone. “Now it’s about good marketing, repositioning, and branding,” Foster says.

While Hyatt has a long history, the winery is clearly entering a new era. Foster knows there is a lot of hard work ahead. Creating new wines and a new vision is one thing. Selling those wines and attracting a new generation of customers is another.

“We have a whole new portfolio, we’re looking for a different buyer, and we’ve got to go get those people,” Foster says.

Images courtesy of Hyatt Vineyards. See reviews of Hyatt and Roza Ridge wines in the review database.

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