What follows is an excerpt from the 2009 Walla Walla Spring Release Weekend Report. Download the full report here (Note: Opens .pdf).

Marie-Eve Gilla continues to impress at Forgeron. Her 2004 Boushey Vineyard Syrah was my top wine at Uncorked’s Syrah event in April. This time around it was the 2004 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet that grabbed my attention, leading my friend Lindy to interrupt a conversation we were having with people from the winery to exclaim “Oh my God!” After a minute more of conversation I sampled the wine and also said “Oh my God! You weren’t kidding!” This is a big, bold wine that demands attention. Gilla’s wines display both a feminine and a French touch. The results speak for themselves and demonstrate why Gilla is one of the best winemakers in Walla Walla Valley. NB: Forgeron Cellars 2005 Zinfandel also came in second in our 2008 Reader Survey. All wines sampled at 64 degrees unless otherwise noted.

Wines:

Score

Name

Notes

$

+

2008 Roussanne Columbia Valley

Just a hint of color. A touch of lemon zest and mineral on this bright, tartly acidic wine. An excellent wine to pair with seafood. 100% Roussanne. Crawford, Lonesome Springs, Alder Ridge vineyards. Sampled at 62 degrees.

$23

+

2006 Barbera Columbia Valley

The nose is marked by spice, green pepper, tobacco, and – at times – chocolate. Very tart and puckering on the palate. The alcohol shows through occasionally. 100% Barbera. Sagemoor Vineyard.

$30

+

2003 Syrah Columbia Valley

An anise bomb that is also loaded with cola. Very evenly textured and opens up on the palate. 100% Syrah. Les Collines, Boushey, Milbrandt, Stonetree, and Den Hoed vineyards.

$30

*

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley

Pretty spices and a beautiful earth component on an appealing nose that is also marked by anise, coffee notes, and cola. Taste has a good acid balance. A touch of pencil lead on the finish. 100% Cabernet.

$46

*

2001 Merlot Columbia Valley

A fair amount of browning in the color. Campfire, sarsaparilla, and pain grille show on the nose. Very evenly balanced with just the right mix of fruit and grip along with a beautifully rich texture. Lots of life left on it.

NA

**

2003 Vinfinity Reserve Columbia Valley

A simply gorgeous nose with cherry cola mixed with tobacco, spices, and smoked meat. An exceptionally well-balanced wine.

$46

*

2005 Zinfandel Columbia Valley

Nose jumps out of the glass with spice, eucalyptus, orange blossom, and a faint hint of graphite. Rich and intense on the palate. A long, lingering finish.

$30

**

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills

Almost completely opaque. Violets, tobacco, funk, and earth emerge on the nose. Packs a gigantic punch on the taste. A complete whopper. Almost completely overwhelms all senses and then comes back and sails.

$46