While there is no agreed upon definition of what constitutes a reserve-labeled wine, there is almost always a common thread. The wine sees a high(er) percentage of new oak.
For example, a winery’s standard Cabernet Sauvignon might see, say, 75% new French oak. A ‘Reserve,’ however, will often see 100%. Many reserve-labeled wines also see a longer time in barrel, 30 months, say, as opposed to 22.
There is some logic to labeling wines ‘reserve’ that have seen more new oak. Oak barrels are one of the most expensive components of wine. A wine that spends time in more new oak is, by definition, more costly for a winemaker to produce. That alone provides some separation from non-reserve labeled wines.
Still, something seems strange about it to me.
Cooking offers a good comparison to winemaking. Many winemakers, like some novice chefs, focus too much of their attention on making sure that they have the best equipment. For winemakers, it might be expensive stainless steel tanks, concrete eggs, top-flight barrels, and the like. However, any good chef would tell you that the most important thing isn’t the knife. It’s what you’re cutting. The ingredients.
In winemaking, the main ingredient is, of course, grapes. It’s no secret that higher quality fruit leads to higher quality wine, all other things being equal. Putting more energy into grape growing and making sure everything in the vineyard is optimized is the best way to end up with higher quality fruit to ‘cook’ with. Much like with cooking, you’re never going to do better than what you started with, regardless of the pan you’re using.
Oak, meanwhile, is best thought of as the spices and seasoning used in cooking. New oak, particularly at higher toast levels, adds flavors that can accent a wine.
In cooking one typically wants to add just enough seasoning to draw out or accent the flavors of a dish without becoming primary. Use too much and it can steal the show. If one is preparing steak and putting more and more salt and seasoning on it, at some point, that is mostly what people taste.
Similarly, reserve-labeled wines with their higher percentage of new oak have more seasoning that can become primary. Now, if there is more fruit intensity too, that might make sense. Otherwise, it often doesn’t, yet it is exactly what many winemakers do.
Of course, new oak can be delicious. But it is always a purchased flavor. It did not come from the grapes or the vineyard.
To my eye – and to my palate – I am more interested in seeing reserve wines where the grapes are more the star of the show rather than less. In general in Washington, even beyond reserve wines, red wines often see too much new oak or, perhaps in some cases, not necessarily the right types of oak. The oak stands too far out front.
Many of the most exciting wines that I’ve had from Washington have used less new oak rather than more of it. Washington can produce exceptionally high quality fruit. Why mask that with too much seasoning?
I expect that, over time, Washington winemakers will become more judicious with what oak they use and how much of it. Let’s hope that holds true for reserve-labeled wines too. Cooking should be about the ingredients, not the cutlery. Similarly, wine should be about the fruit, not the barrel.
Northwest Wine Report is wholly subscriber funded and is my primary source of income. Please subscribe to support continued independent content and reviews on this site.
To receive articles via email, click here.
In many Old World countries, winemakers use the term “Reserve” to designate their personal stash, i.e. wines they set aside for long-time clients like restaurants. Not top-of-the line, but “everyday” wines often sold in barrels.
Quick addendum: the resulting wine, always sound & drinkable, is then referred to as “Réserve Personnelle” or “Réserve du Chef.”
Certain sites, certain varietals and certain seasons don’t tend to wear the wood as well as others. But when the magic does come together with a great place, the right varietal and a near perfect vintage… say 2012 Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, or 1996 Grand Cru Burgundy, the results are incomparable.