90+ wines reviewed below, including the latest from Airfield, Alluvium, Amos Rome, Avennia, Björnson, Block Wines, Browne Family, Cadence, City Limits, Covington, Dance, Dowsett Family, Gramercy, Julia’s Dazzle, Long Shadows, Mount Si, Oregon Territory, Pamplin, Passing Time, Paul O’Brien, Portlandia, Sage Rat, Sightglass, Starside, Township 7, Two Vintners, and Waterbrook.
Since Passing Time’s first releases with their 2012 vintage wines, it’s been clear that this winery from former NFL quarterbacks Dan Marino and (local boy) Damon Huard is far from a sports star vanity project. (Read my interview with Marino and Huard from 2014). The fruit sources were meticulously chosen, including Champoux, Discovery, Wallula, Klipsun, Red Mountain Vineyard, Seven Hills, and Pepper Bridge. The hyper-talented Chris Peterson (Avennia, Liminal) was selected to make the wines, at a time when Avennia was still getting started. A short conversation with Huard will tell you this is someone who is very serious and knowledgeable about wine in general and Washington wine in particular.
From that first vintage, the Passing Time Cabernets have been attention-getters. The latest releases, however, are something else altogether.
The 2020 vintage wines clearly establish Passing Time as one of the top five Cabernet Sauvignon producers in Washington. These are some of the very best Cabernets I’ve ever had from the state, an ideal confluence of vintage conditions, site selection, house style, and winemaker skill.
Much has already been accomplished, but the future could not be any brighter for Passing Time. I can guarantee you this, however. With wines like this, access will surely become much more limited as collectors snap these wines up.
It’s been 25 years since Ben Smith and Gaye McNutt established Cadence. The couple was at the very front of wineries making vineyard-designated, Bordeaux-style blends from Washington in general and from Red Mountain specifically. Now, there are literally hundreds of producers in the state making such wines. For that alone, the state owes Cadence a great debt. In recognition of their contributions, Smith and McNutt were recently selected by their peers as honorary vintners at this year’s Auction of Washington Wines. (Full disclosure, my wife works for the Auction.)
As Washington’s wine style swung riper in the mid to late aughts and more recently began swinging back, Cadence’s style has remained unchanged. Consistent with Smith and McNutt’s vision, the grapes are picked earlier to retain acidity. The use of new oak is quite judicious, allowing the fruit and Red Mountain’s signature structure to shine.
Since 1998, the Cadence wines have consistently been among the very best wines in Washington. Better still, the last quarter century has proven that the wines have profound ageability. They say slow and steady wins the race. Perhaps. All I know is, whatever race it is, Cadence keeps on winning.
Pamplin is an anomaly. The winery is located in Willamette Valley but exclusively uses Washington fruit. (Read a profile of Pamplin from 2011.) Since the very first vintage, the Pamplin wines have offered exceptionally high quality along with a recognizable style, with the fruit at the fore and the oak pulled back. Moreover, Pamplin’s JRG Bordeaux-style blend consistently offers terrific value.
If Pamplin were located in, say, Woodinville or Walla Walla Valley, the winery would be the talk of the town. Due to its location in Willamette Valley, it flies below the radar with many Washington wine lovers. But make no mistake, these are special wines that stand out vintage after vintage.
Each year when I taste the wines from Two Vintners, I am impressed by winemaker Morgan Lee’s facility with Rhône varieties. Yes, Two Vintners makes a standout Grenache Blanc, orange Gewürztraminer, and Bordeaux varieties and blends. But it is the Rhône varieties where Lee truly outshines the pack in Washington. Whether it’s the “how could a wine this good be $28?” Cinsault, Grenache, Zinfandel, and Columbia Valley Syrah or the winery’s vineyard-designated offerings, these are always truly captivating wines.
Of note, Two Vintners recently did an extensive remodel of its Woodinville tasting room. “It’s the coolest spot I’ve ever been in,” Lee said to me recently. West-siders, time to plan a visit to see the new digs.
The wines below also include a number of Cabernet Sauvignon’s either designated May’s Discovery Vineyard (Pamplin, Block Wines, Covington, Two Vintners) or primarily using fruit from Discovery (Passing Time, Starside). Located in the Horse Heaven Hills, the site was planted in 2005 and is owned by Kay and Milo May. It is part of a string of vineyards in the Horse Heavens that includes Phinny Hill, Champoux, and Andrews that are the backbone of some of the very best Cabernet Sauvignons made in Washington.
Tasting these wines, it was fascinating to see the site shine through despite the differences in winemaking, style, and goals. As with other sites in the Horse Heavens, there’s ripeness of fruit, yes, but it’s that aspect combined with the area’s hyper-polished, fulsome tannic structure that creates wines of such depth and distinction.
Washington has been blessed – and cursed – by its ability to grow such a wide assortment of varieties so well. However, it makes more sense, to identify each of the state’s appellations by what they grow best. For Horse Heaven Hills, the answer is quite clear. It’s not just Horse Heaven, it’s Cabernet nirvana.
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At Northwest Wine Report, all scores come from blind tastings in varietal/style sets. Read more about this site’s process for rating and reviewing wines. Read about the Northwest Wine Report rating system and special designations. Read how to interpret scores. Read definitions of closure type listings. Wineries do not need to be subscribers to receive or use ratings and reviews. To receive a copy of the reviews after they have been published, contact [email protected]. Please allow two weeks for reviews to be sent via email after they have been requested.
RED WINES
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Passing Time Block 1311 Wallula Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $110
97 points, Cellar Stocker
This is 100% varietal, all coming from a single block at this vineyard and aged in 80% new French oak. The aromas show complexity, with notes of leaf, fresh chopped herb, black cherry, flower, and cassis – a classic Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet profile. Dense, intense, but still fresh dark fruit flavors follow. Finely combed but ever-present tannins back it all up. The freshness is outrageous. The finish. Just. Won’t. Quit – at least a minute long. It’s a shockingly good, full-on ‘Wow!’ wine with a very long life ahead of it. Best from 2027 to 2040. 14.7% alcohol. 125 cases produced. Natural cork.
Passing Time Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $94
96 points, Cellar Stocker
Blended with 8% Champoux Merlot, fruit for this wine otherwise comes from Discovery (61%) and Wallula (31%) vineyards. Aged in 80% new French oak, aromas of black cherry, raspberry, dried herb, cocoa, leaf, scorched earth, and herb lead to a creamy feeling red and black-fruited palate that broadens significantly with time open. The refined tannins that are the hallmark of this region are there in abundance. It sticks around for a long, long time on the finish. One for the ages, it’s all about class and detail, bringing plentiful amounts of both. Enjoy from 2028 to 2038, but enjoy it you will whenever you open it. 14.8% alcohol. 400 cases produced. Natural cork. NB: This wine drinks best at the lower end of my 62-66 recommended serving temperature for red wines.
Avennia Avennia Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2020 $75
95 points, Cellar Stocker
This is the first release from Avennia’s estate site, the former Tapteil Vineyard that the winery purchased in 2021. The aromas are vibrant, with notes of fresh herb, black cherry, flower, and kirsch. Supple black cherry flavors follow, showing layers of richness. Firm, brawny, but still polished tannins back it up. It’s outrageously delicious but tightly coiled now. Best from 2026 to 2035. Give it an extended decant if drinking sooner. 14.8% alcohol. 44 cases produced. Natural cork.
Passing Time Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2020 $94
95 points, Cellar Stocker
100% varietal, this is 60% Klipsun, 30% Red Mountain, and 10% Kiona Heart of the Hill fruit. The aromas are dazzling, with notes of crushed rock, cassis, black cherry, and coffee. Full-bodied, seamless cherry, coffee, and chocolate flavors follow, showing exceptional balance and length. There’s a whole lot of structure behind it all. It’s a wine that flat out impresses. Best from 2028 to 2037. 14.8% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Natural cork.
Cadence Cara Mia Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2020 $50
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Ben Smith at Cadence has been known since the winery’s inception in 1998 as making some of the very best Bordeaux-style blends in Washington State. Here, he offers a rare varietally designated wine. The aromas are locked up initially, opening over time to reveal notes of black currant, herb, red fruit, and mineral. Supple, reserved fruit flavors follow, with the oak dialed back. It shows pleasing polish and detail. There’s impressive structure behind it all. Enjoy it now or in 15 years. It will be there waiting for you. 14.4% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Natural cork.
Long Shadows Feather Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2019 $75
93 points, Cellar Stocker
Two-thirds of the fruit for this wine comes from Weinbau and Dionysus vineyards, with the rest from sites in the Horse Heaven Hills. Aged 22 months in French oak (85% new), coffee bean, spice, herb, and black cherry aromas lead to full-bodied, seamless, black fruit flavors. It’s a look at the richer side of the variety but brings no shortage of sophistication. Best from 2027 to 2035. 14.80% alcohol. 3,840 cases produced. Natural cork.
Pamplin Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2019 $55
93 points, Cellar Stocker
Pamplin is one of the best, under-the-radar wineries making wine from Washington. 100% varietal, the aromas are vivid, with notes of blackberry, black cherry, chocolate, and barrel spice. Supple, reserved dark fruit flavors follow, with the oak seemingly pulled back. It shows an ideal mixture of ripeness and freshness, with exquisite depth, balance, length, and acidity – a complete standout. Enjoy from 2026 to 2035. 14.2% alcohol. 289 cases produced. Natural cork.
Pamplin Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2019 $70
93 points, Cellar Stocker
This is 100% varietal, with fruit coming from a site that is increasingly establishing itself as a top spot for Cabernet. Enticing aromas of espresso, dried herb, licorice, dried leaf, cherry, and plum lead to reserved, well-balanced, vivid cherry flavors. The feel is polished and appealing, with the oak dialed back. Bright acid only ups the interest. It’s a very classy wine, with a lot of structure behind it. Best from 2026 to 2036. 14.3% alcohol. 46 cases produced. Natural cork.
Passing Time Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2020 $94
93 points, Cellar Stocker
100% varietal, this is a blend of Seven Hills (64%) and Pepper Bridge fruit. The aromas are arresting, with notes of cocoa, black cherry, flower, espresso, and dried leaf. A full-bodied, voluminous palate follows, chock full of layers of rich, intense dark fruit flavors that come in waves. It hangs and hangs on the finish. Best from 2026 to 2035. 14.9% alcohol. 225 cases produced. Natural cork.
Block Wines Discovery Vineyard Block 1 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $55
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Discovery Vineyard, a stone’s throw from Champoux and Phinny Hill, is quickly rising to the top of Cabernet Sauvignon sites in Washington. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of scorched earth, black cherry, green herb, dried leaf, and cassis. The flavors show the polish and refined tannins that this appellation consistently brings. There’s plenty of hang time on the finish. It shows a pleasing mixture of the variety’s fruit and herbal side, along with a whole lot of freshness and yum. Give it additional time in bottle or decant. 14.8% alcohol. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Covington May’s Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $NA
92 points, Cellar Stocker
Blended with 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot, fruit for this wine comes from one of the state’s top Cabernet Sauvignon sites. Aromas of sautéed herb, milk chocolate, and red and black cherry lead to smooth flavors that show impressive polish and freshness. The tannins are combed to a fine sheen. Best from 2026 to 2035. 14.0% alcohol. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Gramercy Lower East Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2018 $32
92 points, Critic’s Choice
This is a glorious example of Washington Cabernet. Black currant, earth, flower, leaf, and coffee aromas lead to supple, reserved fruit flavors. There’s vibrant acidity behind it all, and it hangs on the finish. It’s a shockingly good wine to find at this price. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. 14.0% alcohol. 2,487 cases produced. Natural cork.
Two Vintners Sal May’s Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $60
92 points, Cellar Stocker
Blended with 10% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, the aromas are brooding, with notes of blackberry, herb, bramble, and black licorice. Plentiful dark fruit flavors follow, backed by polished, plentiful tannin. Bright acidity enlivens it. Enjoy from 2026 to 2035. Decant if drinking in the near term. 14.8% alcohol. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Two Vintners Legit Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $35
91 points, Critic’s Choice
This is mostly Discovery Vineyard Cabernet, blended with Discovery Merlot (10%), and Kiona Petit Verdot (5%). Aged in 65% new French and American oak, the aromas offer notes of black cherry, plum, barrel spice, dried herb, pencil lead, and a whiff of menthol. Full-bodied, rich, black fruit flavors follow. Chocolate notes accent the finish. 14.5% alcohol. 200 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Airfield Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley 2020 $35
90 points
The aromas are brooding, with notes of dried leaf, graphite, coffee, and black cherry, along with a whiff of medicine. Dark cherry and herb flavors follow, ripe but well-balanced, backed by firm, lightly grainy tannins. 14.3% alcohol. 975 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Starside Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2021 $25
90 points
More than half of the fruit for this wine comes from top site Discovery Vineyard. It’s closed up on first pour, showing notes of plum, herb, cocoa powder, purple fruit, dried orange rind, and tar. Soft plum, black currant, and herb flavors follow. There’s sneaky structure behind it all. It’s a pleasingly unadulterated look at Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.8% alcohol. 300 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Browne Family The Farm Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2020 $21
89 points
The aromas offer notes of fresh, leafy green herb, bay leaf, tilled, wet soil, and black cherry. The palate is full-bodied, supple feeling, and textured, full of dark fruit and chocolate flavors. It leans into the greener side of the variety. 14.2% alcohol. 400 cases produced. Natural cork.
Browne Family Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $30
86 points
Aromas of licorice gummy, cola, smoke, and tire rubber lead to medium-bodied plum and black currant flavors. Grainy tannins back it up. 14.2% alcohol. 3,000 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
Waterbrook Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $NA
85 points
Vanilla, mesquite smoke, green herb, black cherry, and spice aromas lead to medium-bodied flavors with a gritty feel. The smoke impact gets in the way, though some might overlook it. 13.7% alcohol. 700 cases produced. Agglomerated cork.
Browne Family The Continent Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2020 $NA
84 points
This is all Williamson Block fruit. Aromas of ashtray, cherry, vanilla, mesquite smoke, and green herb lead to full-bodied, quite smoky flavors with a gritty feel. The smoke impact causes substantial distraction. 14.0% alcohol. 400 cases produced. Natural cork.
Browne Family Homecoming Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2020 $NA
83 points
Aromas of ashtray, black cherry, and licorice lead to flavors that seem stripped and nowhere near as ripe as the listed alcohol would suggest, finishing oddly dry. The smoke impact causes substantial distraction. 15.2% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Natural cork.
Browne Family Liberation of Paris Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2020 $51
82 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the Wittenburg Block at the winery’s estate vineyard. Ashtray, black cherry, and herb aromas lead to medium-bodied mesquite flavors with a gritty feel. The smoke influence almost completely takes over. 14% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Natural cork.
BORDEAUX-STYLE BLENDS
Cadence Bel Canto Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain 2019 $70
94 points, Cellar Stocker
Ben Smith at Cadence is a Cabernet Franc savant, as shown on this offering, which includes 83% of the variety, along with 17% Merlot. One sniff, and it’s immediately identifiable as Cadence, with notes of scorched earth, red and black currant, flower, and fresh herb. The palate is all about restraint, purity, and freshness. But make no mistake, there’s plenty of richness and texture here too, sophisticated though, and all wrapped in this winery’s unmistakable, structured style. An extended finish provides the exclamation point. Best from 2025 to 2035. 14.4% alcohol. 250 cases produced. Natural cork.
Cadence Camerata Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain 2019 $70
94 points, Cellar Stocker
This is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 17% Merlot, all coming from the winery’s estate site. The aromas pull you into the glass, with notes of black currant, scorched earth, flower, dried herb, and mineral. Supremely supple, polished fruit flavors follow, showing depth, enlivened by bright acidity, and supported by sneaky tannin structure. It’s a glorious example of this vineyard, appellation, and producer. Best from 2027 to 2037. 14.4% alcohol. 225 cases produced. Natural cork.
Cadence Tapteil Vineyard Red Mountain 2019 $50
94 points, Cellar Stocker
This is the last vintage of Tapteil from Cadence, with the winery focusing on its estate site going forward. Cabernet Sauvignon comprises half of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Franc (28%) and Merlot. The aromas are compelling with notes of coffee, scorched earth, cherry, purple licorice, and dried leaf. Supple, layered dark fruit flavors follow, exhibiting exquisite balance, framed by bright acid and plentiful tannins. It shows persistent intensity. Best from 2027 to 2035. 14.4% alcohol. 400 cases produced. Natural cork.
Passing Time Red Wine Columbia Valley 2020 $62
94 points, Cellar Stocker
This is 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot, with fruit coming from Discovery (37%), Klipsun (20%), Seven Hills (15%), Wallula (13%), Heart of the Hill (8%), and Champoux vineyards. Fresh herb, cocoa, black cherry, vanilla bean, flower, licorice, coffee, and scorched earth aromas lead to bountiful, seamless dark fruit flavors, speckled with chocolate and cocoa accents. Firm tannic structure backs it all up, with plenty of freshness keeping it all vivid. An extended finish caps it off. It’s shockingly good. Enjoy from 2025 to 2036. Decant if drinking in the near term. Whenever you open it, enjoy a front row seat of the beauty of Washington wine. 14.8% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Natural cork.
Long Shadows Pirouette Columbia Valley 2019 $70
92 points, Cellar Stocker
This is a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon from Red Mountain, 33% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc from Weinbau Vineyard, 3% Malbec from Sonnet Vineyard, and 2% Dionysus Petit Verdot. Aged 22 months in French oak (75% new), aromas of coffee, char, spice, black cherry, and herb lead to a creamy-feeling palate that shows an exquisite mixture of power and sophistication, with fruit and barrel playing off each other. Best from 2026 to 2035. 14.80% alcohol. 2,515 cases produced. Natural cork.
Pamplin JRG Red Wine Columbia Valley 2019 $40
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Pamplin’s JRG always overdelivers. Though listed as a red wine, this is fully 97% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot. The aromas bring notes of currant, cherry, flower, and a whiff of green pepper. Medium-bodied flavors follow, with the oak pleasingly pulled back. A whole lot of tannic structure backs it up. The finish sails into the distance. It’s a complete standout and a terrific value to boot. 14.3% alcohol. 915 cases produced. Natural cork.
Township 7 Benchmark Series Reserve 7 Okanagan Valley 2019 $50
92 points, Critic’s Choice
This wine is a barrel selection of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas offer notes of red and black licorice, cola, black currant, and cherry. Fresh, lively, well-balanced flavors follow. It’s a complete delight, enjoyable by itself but would truly shine at the dinner table. 14.0% alcohol. 500 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Cadence Coda Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain 2021 $28
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Cabernet Franc (45%) and Merlot (42%) make up the majority of this wine, with the rest Petit Verdot (8%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of freshly ground herb, flower, mineral, plum, dark cherry, and a whiff of orange twist lead to full-feeling but still restrained, palate-coating dark fruit flavors that show dazzling purity. As always, Coda offers one of the best bang-for-the- buck values in Washington. 14.4% alcohol. 860 cases produced. Natural cork.
Alluvium Alpha Red Blend Columbia Valley 2019 $60
88 points
This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (53%), Cabernet Franc (32%), and Malbec (15%), with fruit coming from French Creek, Diamondback Ridge, and McNary vineyards. Aromas of vanilla bean, cocoa, cream, dried orange rind, herb, and red cherry lead to full-feeling tangerine and vanilla flavors. Lightly tacky-feeling tannins back it up. There are good things happening, but some of the fruit doesn’t quite seem to have fully ripened. 14.5% alcohol. 150 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Two Vintners Alice Red Wine Columbia Valley 2020 $85
88 points
This wine is 60% Pollard Merlot, 30% Discovery Merlot, 5% Pollard Cabernet Franc, and 5% Dineen Cab Sauvignon. Aged 20 months in French oak (80% new), aromas of dark raspberry, dried orange and tangerine rind, licorice, and spice lead to black tea flavors, with ashtray accents that are so light that some might not notice. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 14.8% alcohol. 80 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Browne Family Bitner Estate Tribute Red Blend Columbia Valley 2020 $20
86 points
This is a blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, and 21% Petit Verdot. Smoke, medicine, black currant, and cherry aromas lead to plump-feeling black currant and plum flavors. Lightly pasty tannins back it up.13.7% alcohol. 1,000 cases produced. Natural cork.
MERLOT & OTHER BORDEAUX VARIETIES
Airfield Reserve Merlot Yakima Valley 2020 $35
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Raspberry, blackberry, dried leaf, and graphite aromas are followed by palate-coating, reserved dark fruit flavors. It boasts impressive layering and depth. It’s a yumball of a wine, a delicious example of what Washington Merlot has to offer. 14.4% alcohol. 273 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Sage Rat Scrublands Cabernet Franc 55% Sangiovese 45% Yakima Valley 2021 $25
89 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Copeland (Cabernet Franc) and Portteus vineyards (Sangiovese) and was co-fermented. Aged nine months in neutral oak, the aromas start out reduced. Beyond that are notes of nori, cherry, herb, charcoal, and a whiff of campfire. The flavors are medium-bodied, fresh, and pure, showing a touch of smoke influence. If you don’t notice the smoke, and many will not, the perception goes up. This one belongs on the dinner table. Pair it with grilled portabello mushroom caps brushed with a balsamic glaze. Decant if still reduced. 13.5% alcohol. 140 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Two Vintners Merlot Columbia Valley 2020 $28
89 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Discovery, Pepper Bridge, Waliser, StoneTree, and Boushey vineyards, blended with 5% Dineen Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Pollard Cabernet Franc. The aromas are subdued, with notes of vanilla bean, char, pipe tobacco, cherry, and a whiff of woodsmoke. The medium-bodied cranberry and cherry flavors bring pleasing freshness and intensity, with a lightly grainy feel. Give it a long decant. 14.5% alcohol. 220 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Airfield Merlot Yakima Valley 2021 $20
87 points
The aromas bring notes of green herb, orange rind, flower, coffee, citrus twist, and a touch of woodsmoke. Lighter-styled red currant and herb flavors follow, with coffee intertwined with smoke on the finish. It comes off as green for the variety. 14.4% alcohol. 526 cases produced. Screwcap.
Waterbrook Malbec Columbia Valley 2021 $17
87 points
Aromas of sugared plum, fresh black currant, flower, and whole tangerine lead to fresh plum flavors that dip in the middle before coming back together on the finish. There’s pleasing purity to it as well as varietal correctness and value. 13.5% alcohol. 5,000 cases produced. Agglomerated cork.
SYRAH, GRENACHE, AND RHÔNE-STYLE BLENDS
Two Vintners Some Days Are Stones Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2020 $55
94 points, Critic’s Choice
This is a blend of fruit from Stoney Vine (57%) and Stones Speak vineyards. The aromas pop and are classic Rocks District – freshly chopped parsley, stargazer lily, firepit, iodine, tapenade, sea salt, orange rind, and charcuterie plate. Plump, palate-coating flavors follow, with the potpourri, fruit, and savory notes showing seamless intensity. Like the best wines from this appellation, it hangs around for a long, long time on the finish. 14.1% alcohol. 90 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Two Vintners Oliver Red Wine Columbia Valley 2020 $55
93 points, Cellar Stocker
This wine has typically been a Syrah-Petite Sirah blend, but this vintage is 90% Weather Eye Vineyard Grenache along with 5% Olsen Petite Sirah and 5% Boushey Syrah. Spending 20 months in 300L oak barrels (50% new), the aromas bring notes of black fruit, licorice, herb, and flower. Quite ripe, ultra-pure flavors follow. It puts a focus on hedonism, bringing it in abundance. Best after 2025. 14.7% alcohol. 80 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Two Vintners Syrah Columbia Valley 2020 $28
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Two Vintners consistently provides one of the best values in Washington with its Columbia Valley Syrah. This vintage is a blend of top sites that include Boushey, Discovery, StoneTree, Olsen, Stones Speak, Pepper Bridge, and Konnowac. Blended with 2% Roussanne and 1% Viognier, the aromas are subdued initially, with notes of dried herb, blueberry, purple flower, and dark fruit. Ripe, soft, sinewy fruit flavors follow, showing impressive depth and weight. It sticks around on the finish. In a word, yum. Decant. 14.5% alcohol. 1,100 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Two Vintners The Waiting List Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley 2020 $55
93 points, Cellar Stocker
Coming from perhaps the best Syrah site on the Washington side of the Columbia Valley, the aromas are closed initially, opening to reveal notes of red and black fruit, licorice, barrel spice, and herb. Full-bodied, rich flavors follow, with spice accents. It sails on the finish. Give it additional time in bottle or decant. Best after 2025. 14.5% alcohol. 80 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Two Vintners Some Days Are Diamonds May’s Discovery Vineyard Syrah Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $55
93 points, Cellar Stocker
Coming from a vineyard that has established itself as a top Cabernet site but that makes sneaky good Syrah too, two puncheons were made of this wine, one new and one used. The aromas are alluring, with notes of crushed rock, dark raspberry, cherry, fresh flower, and whiffs of bacon fat. Full-feeling, seamless, hyper-pure dark fruit flavors follow. It carries on an exceptionally long finish. This wine is showing well now but will only open up with additional time in bottle. Best after 2025. 14.4% alcohol. 110 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Two Vintners Grenache Columbia Valley 2021 $28
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Two Vintners Grenache is one of the best Rhône values in Washington, full stop. This is a blend of fruit from Boushey, Olsen, WeatherEye, StoneTree, and Pepper Bridge vineyards – outrageously high quality sources to find at this price. Aged 15 months in French oak puncheons (about 30% new), it’s an aromatically brooding wine, with notes of raspberry candy, flower, and herb. Full-feeling, saturated white pepper, flower, and red and darker fruit flavors follow, carrying on the finish. It’s a full-throttle wine, offering ripe but in-check, beautifully pure goodness. 15.5% alcohol. 400 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Sightglass Syrah/Grenache Columbia Valley 2021 $36
92 points, Critic’s Choice
A 50/50 blend, fruit for this wine comes from Ranch at the End of the Road (Red Mountain) and Stillwater Creek (Royal Slope). Aromas of dark plum, blueberry pie, raspberry, fresh herb, orange rind, dried herb, and a whiff of smoked meat lead to plump, pure, well-balanced fruit flavors. It shows impressive polish and a big-time yum factor. 14.8% alcohol. Natural cork.
Two Vintners Claire Boushey Vineyard Grenache Yakima Valley 2020 $40
91 points
This wine is immediately identifiable as Grenache, with aromas of potpourri, white pepper, raspberry, and soil. Ripe, full-bodied flavors follow, showing piercing purity and pleasing depth. A warm finish, speckled with red fruit, floral, and coffee notes, caps it off. Classy stuff. 14.5% alcohol. 115 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Alluvium Asterius Syrah Columbia Valley 2019 $56
88 points
Orange oil, tire rubber, flower, dried olive, and plum aromas lead to a center-focused palate that mixes fruit and barrel, with blueberry notes emerging on the back end. Orange rind notes weave throughout. Decant to see it at its best. 14.9% alcohol. 150 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork
Alluvium Alyssum Grenache Columbia Valley 2021 $76
88 points
The aromas bring notes of wet copper penny, raspberry, freshly-peeled tangerine rind, cigar box, and rain-soaked herb. The flavors are fuller feeling but still lithe. It’s well-made, but some of the fruit doesn’t seem to have fully ripened. 14.7% alcohol. 40 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
PINOT NOIR
Paul O’Brien Pinot Noir Umpqua Valley 2021 $32
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Just under two-thirds of this wine comes from Susan’s Vineyard, with the rest from Bradley. Fermented 25% whole cluster and aged 10 months in French oak (one quarter new), the aromas are immediately appealing, with notes of wild strawberry, forest floor, black cherry, dried herb, and a kiss of spice. Smooth, full-feeling but still light on their feet, pleasingly pure red and darker fruit flavors follow, with light tangerine accents. It hangs on the finish. This wine brings freshness and a big-time yum factor – a statement for Umpqua Pinot. 13.5% alcohol. 1,194 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Paul O’Brien Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $32
90 points
The aromas start out reduced, opening to bring notes of wet copper penny, flower, cranberry, and red currant, with some of the fruit leaning darker. Sultry red and black fruit flavors follow. Decant if drinking in the near term to clear the reduction. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 13.5% alcohol. 1,131 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Oregon Territory Pinot Noir Oregon 2021 $20
88 points
Three quarters of the fruit for this wine comes from Umpqua Valley, with the rest from Willamette. Aged 10 months in French oak (25% new), aromas of cranberry, raspberry candy, and red plum lead to a full-flavored palate. The flavors are broader in feel, showing pleasing purity. It’s a riper-style offering of the variety that provides good value. 13.5% alcohol. 5,516 cases produced. Screwcap.
Browne Family Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2020 $NA
82 points
The aromas offer notes of campfire and red fruit. Elegant flavors follow, with smoke notes throughout. The smoke impact is substantial. It’s a shame as the underlying fruit is pretty. 13.5% alcohol. 2,000 cases produced. Agglomerated cork.
RED BLENDS
Long Shadows Saggi Red Wine Columbia Valley 2019 $65
93 points, Critic’s Choice
As always, this is a blend of Sangiovese (52%), Cabernet Sauvignon (32%) and Syrah. Aged 18 months in French oak (55% new), the aromas meld notes of coffee, cherry, leather, cranberry, and thyme along with whiffs of vanilla, with fruit and barrel playing off each other. Full-bodied, creamy-feeling flavors follow. Cranberry notes weave through the finish. The vintage’s tart acidity ties it all together beautifully. 14.70% alcohol. 2,395 cases produced. Natural cork.
Covington Ode Red Wine Columbia Valley 2019 $58
92 points
Though not labeled as such, this is 100% Sangiovese, Grosso Clone, aged 36 months in neutral puncheon. The aromas bring notes of vanilla bean, raspberry, cranberry, and cocoa, mixing fruit and barrel. Full-bodied, smooth flavors follow, with the tannins giving a light grip, made slightly firmer by the variety’s acidity. It’s lovely, with the feel bringing as much appeal as the flavor. 14.5% alcohol. 56 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Two Vintners Lola Yellow Jacket Vineyard Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2020 $35
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Syrah makes of 70% of this Rocks District wine, with Cabernet Sauvignon the rest. With the Syrah all whole cluster fermented, the aromas are perfumed, with notes of potpourri, orange rind, and fire pit in front of red fruit, peat, and pepper. Medium-plus bodied, soft-feeling flavors follow, with a wash of floral notes on the finish. It provides impressive value. 14.5% alcohol. 160 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Covington Prima Red Wine Columbia Valley 2020 $NA
89 points
Sangiovese makes up 60% of this wine, with the rest Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas bring notes of plum, berry, leather, and cherry, mixed with dried black tea leaves and cigar box. There’s pleasing tartness to the cherry flavors, backed by slightly gruff tannins. 14.5% alcohol. 56 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Browne Family Forest Project Red Blend Columbia Valley 2020 $20
87 points
Aromas of bittersweet chocolate, green herb, and plum lead to medium-bodied black currant and fruit leather flavors. It’s a simple, straightforward quaffer. 14.2% alcohol. 3,000 cases produced. Screwcap.
Mount Si Le Rouge Red Wine Columbia Valley 2018 $32
87 points
This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Malbec. Quite ripe aromas of black cherry, green pepper, and spice lead to a palate that paints around the edges, missing in the middle. 14.7% alcohol. 60 cases produced. Natural cork.
Waterbrook Mélange Founder’s Red Blend Columbia Valley 2021 $19
83 points
The aromas offer notes of rain-soaked potting soil, ashtray, green herb, and charcoal. Medium-bodied plum and cherry flavors follow, with a lightly gritty feel. It shows significant smoke impact. 13.7% alcohol. 7,000 cases produced. Micro-agglomerated cork.
OTHER RED VARIETIES
Two Vintners Stonetree Vineyard Zinfandel Wahluke Slope 2020 $28
92 points, Critic’s Choice
The aromas bring notes of fresh and dried raspberry and cranberry, mixed with bramble, spice, and fruit leather – a classic Zin profile. Ripe, tangy, tart, full-bodied, hedonistic flavors follow, sailing on the finish. As always, this is full-bore, unabashedly ripe Zinfandel – consistently the best in the state. 16.5% alcohol. 350 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Two Vintners Make Haste Olsen Vineyard Cinsault Yakima Valley 2021 $28
91 points, Critic’s Choice
This is a rare-in-the-state offering of 100% varietal Cinsault. Aged in neutral French oak, the aromas are vibrant, with notes of rain-soaked herb, fresh flower, freshly-peeled tangerine, and red fruit. The flower and red fruit flavors focus on elegance, sophistication, and purity. Lovers of this well-priced offering will find much to enjoy. 14.5% alcohol. 290 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Oregon Territory Tempranillo Oregon 2019 $20
87 points
Aromas of cocoa, butterscotch, sweet spice, and dark cherry lead to fruit flavors that start out fuller, then dip, before coming back together on the finish. Barrel notes are speckled throughout. 13.5% alcohol. 526 cases produced. Screwcap.
WHITE WINES
CHARDONNAY
Passing Time Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2021 $50
92 points, Cellar Stocker
Three quarters of the fruit for this wine comes from Bacchus Vineyard in the White Bluffs, with the rest from Boushey in Yakima Valley. The aromas boast notes of apple, pear, and peach. Full-bodied, lightly creamy-feeling flavors follow. It hangs around on the finish. It’s a spot-on example of the variety, showing a pleasing mixture of ripeness and balanced fruit. Best after 2024. 13.5% alcohol. 350 cases produced. Natural cork.
Dance Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2020 $42
91 points
Fruit for this wine comes from French Creek and Boushey vineyards. Aged in a mixture of near equal parts concrete, new, and neutral oak, it offers aromas of crayon, cream, spice, cardamom, apple, and peach. Full-feeling, luxurious flavors follow. A warm finish caps it off. 14.1% alcohol. 790 cases produced. Natural cork.
Sightglass Connor Lee Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2023 $22
91 points, Critic’s Choice
As always, this was raised in stainless steel. The aromas are pleasing, with notes of apple, pear, and a whiff of melon. Medium-bodied, richly textured flavors follow, with impeccable balance. Vibrant acidity keeps it humming along. It’s a shining example of stainless steel Chardonnay. Pair with a rockfish and mango ceviche. 13% alcohol. Natural cork.
Covington Boushey Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley 2021 $30
89 points
Native yeast fermented, aromas of corn silk, peach Snapple, crayon, and ripe pineapple lead to full-bodied almond, cream, and stone fruit flavors that show some warmth on the finish. It leans into the variety’s riper side. 14.2% alcohol. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
WHITE BLENDS
Sage Rat Ratto Bianco Washington 2022 $20
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Bottled unfined and unfiltered and therefore cloudy in appearance, this is a blend of 50% Riesling, 25% Pinot Grigio, and 25% Orange Muscat. Aged on lees for four months in stainless steel, the aromas pop, with notes of orange blossom and tangerine essence. The palate explodes with dry, textured-feeling Dry Nestea Iced Tea flavors. There’s a whole lot of enjoyment packed into this bottle. I can’t say I’ve had anything else quite like it from Washington. 11.5% alcohol. 186 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Browne Family Willow White Blend Columbia Valley 2022 $NA
88 points
Bright aromas of ripe honeydew melon, dried banana chips, and apricot lead to medium-bodied, textured flavors. Ale notes linger on the finish. It’s settling into bottle, but there’s still enjoyment to be had. 12.5% alcohol. 900 cases produced. Natural cork.
Alluvium Apricity White Wine Washington 2021 $32
86 points
This is a blend of 37% Marsanne, 27% Grenache Blanc, 24% Viognier, and 12% Roussanne, coming from Coyote Canyon, Diamondback Ridge, and Jamison vineyards. All aged in stainless steel, unsettled apple, pear, herb, and banana aromas lead to a palate that is broad in feel but lighter in concentration, particularly through the middle. 13.8% alcohol. 100 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
GRÜNER VELTLINER
Amos Rome Estate Grüner Veltliner Lake Chelan 2022 $26
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Fruit for this wine comes from fourth leaf vines at the winery’s High Blossom Vineyard approximately 1,800 feet above sea level and was harvested October 18th. Raised in stainless steel, appealing aromas of pink grapefruit, Granny Smith apple, wet rock, peach, and green flower lead to fuller-feeling, beautifully balanced, textural, vibrant stone and citrus fruit flavors that hum with electric acidity. It’s a thoroughly captivating offering of the variety and a statement for Lake Chelan white wines. 13% alcohol. 400 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Amos Rome Concrete Estate Grüner Veltliner Lake Chelan 2022 $27
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Fruit for this wine comes from High Blossom Vineyard and was picked on the same day as the winery’s sandstone Grüner from this vintage, October 22nd. This wine, however, was aged in concrete. Aromas of flower, apple, peach, and sweet spice lead to a medium-bodied, richly flavorful palate. The balance is impeccable, and tart, bright acidity enlivens it. It’s an exciting wine, both for consumers and for Lake Chelan. 13% alcohol. 220 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Amos Rome Sandstone Grüner Veltliner Lake Chelan 2022 $28
91 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the same vineyard as the winery’s Concrete Grüner and was picked on the same day, with this wine aged in a 12HL sandstone jarre. It starts out quite reduced, causing initial distraction. Beyond that, the aromas offer notes of green pea pod, citrus, stone fruit, and herb. Tart, medium-bodied flavors follow. Decant if still reduced. 13.1% alcohol. 130 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
GEWÜRZTRAMINER
Dowsett Family Celilo Vineyard Gewürztraminer Columbia Gorge 2019 $28
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Chris Dowsett at Dowsett Family consistently makes some of the very best Gewürztraminer in the U.S. The aromas pop, with notes of flint, dried orange rind, flower, and lychee, showing some initial reduction. A bone-dry, richly flavorful, broad-feeling palate follows. There’s no break between the first sip and the supremely long finish. Decant if still reduced. 14.2% alcohol. 57 cases produced. Natural cork.
Dowsett Family Gewürztraminer Columbia Gorge 2021 $16
90 points, Critic’s Choice
Subdued aromas of flower, ginger, and lychee lead to a dry, full-bodied, flavorful palate. The floral notes stick around for a 10-count on the finish. It shows the warmth of the vintage but remains in check. It’s a terrific value. 14.0% alcohol. 177 cases produced. Screwcap.
Two Vintners O.G. Extended Maceration Olsen Vineyard Gewürztraminer Yakima Valley 2021 $30
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Orange wines are currently a rarity in Washington, and this one is a consistent standout. Fermented in Spanish clay and left on its skins for eight weeks, it then spent 10 months in neutral French oak. It’s outrageously aromatic, with notes of ginger, lychee, tangerine, and white flower – classic Gewürztraminer. A bone dry, medium-bodied palate follows, showing textural richness, with mineral accents. As always, it’s in a class all by itself. 13.0% alcohol. 100 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
OTHER WHITES
Amos Rome Djounne’s Vineyard Chenin Blanc Lake Chelan 2022 $26
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Aged in stainless steel, reductive aromas are in the lead initially, with notes of struck flint. Beyond that are aromas of yellow and green apple, melon, and herb. Medium-bodied, exquisitely balanced, very varietal flavors follow. Tart, bright acidity keeps it all in vivid focus. It’s a complete standout – a statement on what Lake Chelan white wines can be. 13.1% alcohol. 220 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Long Shadows Poet’s Leap Riesling Columbia Valley 2021 $20
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Poet’s Leap is consistently the state’s top Riesling. Most of the fruit for this wine comes from vines planted in the 1980s at Gamache Vineyard in the White Bluffs, along with small amounts from Bacchus and DuBrul. The aromas are exuberant, with notes of lime leaf, white flower, jasmine, and white peach. The stone fruit flavors bring layering and weight, along with the zippy acidity the variety is known for. Like many whites from the vintage, it’s richer in style, but the variety has plenty of natural acid to pull it off. Enjoy now or give it additional time in bottle. 12.5% alcohol. 3,335 cases produced. Natural cork.
Two Vintners Grenache Blanc Columbia Valley 2022 $25
92 points, Critic’s Choice
This is 90% Boushey Grenache Blanc and 10% Olsen Roussanne, with the former picked in two passes seven to ten days apart. Aged four months in French oak (10% new) with partial malolactic fermentation, the aromas fascinate, with notes of almond butter, lemon rind, and crushed rock. Full-feeling flavors follow, showing depth and dimension. Lively acidity supports it. The finish carries. It’s a top notch offering of this rarely seen variety. 13.4% alcohol. 460 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Two Vintners WeatherEye Grenache Blanc Columbia Valley 2021 $40
92 points
Aged one year in French oak puncheons (50% new), almond, candlewax, mineral, and cream aromas lead to medium-plus bodied, well-balanced apricot flavors that bring textural appeal and exceptional length. It shows some warmth on the finish. 14.4% alcohol. 110 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Sightglass Artz Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Red Mountain 2022 $20
91 points
100% varietal, the aromas offer notes of citrus, melon, kiwi, passion fruit, and herb. The palate brings pleasing textural richness, with the flavors framed by tart acidity. 12% alcohol. Natural cork.
Township 7 Benchmark Series Blue Terrace Vineyard Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Okanagan Valley 2021 $32
90 points
This is an aromatic offering of the variety, with notes of grass and green herb, mixed with lemon and lime zest and freshly sliced pineapple. Guava and a cornucopia of other tropical fruit flavors follow, with the variety’s bright acidity keeping it all in check. It’s a tasty, riper-style offering. 13.2% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Screwcap.
Amos Rome Estate Riesling Lake Chelan 2021 $22
89 points
The aromas offer notes of lees, lime, mineral, white peach, and apple, showing some initial reduction. Light, bright flavors follow. The acid is impressive, particularly for the listed alcohol. If the reduction clears, it moves up. 13.82% alcohol. 350 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Björnson Gouias Blanc Pamar Vineyard Van Duzer Corridor 2022 $35
89 points
This is believed to be the first production in North America of this ancient variety. Aged three months in French oak (all used), the aromas are subdued, with notes of flower, herb, and pear. Tart, medium-bodied flavors follow, with a lick of acidity brightening it. It’s a very promising start for this variety on the continent. 13.2% alcohol. 60 cases produced. Screwcap.
Oregon Territory Pinot Gris Oregon 2022 $19
86 points
This is almost all Willamette Valley fruit, aged in stainless steel (90%) and neutral oak. The aromas bring notes of flower, apple, and petroleum jelly. A fuller-feeling palate follows, with ale notes on the finish. It still seems to be settling in. 13.0% alcohol. 987 cases produced. Screwcap.
ROSÉ
Dowsett Family Becklin Vineyards Pinot Noir Georgia Rose Rosé Oregon 2022 $17
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Pale peach colored, aromas of rhubarb, orange rind, bubble gum, and watermelon lead to light, bright flavors. It’s a very, very pretty wine that hits a lot of high notes and remains light on its feet – perfect for summer. It’s also exceptionally well-priced for the quality level. 13.2% alcohol. 173 cases produced. Screwcap.
Julia’s Dazzle Pinot Gris Rosé Columbia Valley 2022 $20
91 points, Critic’s Choice
This is an aromatically vibrant wine, with notes of watermelon, strawberry, herb, rhubarb, and melon. It’s medium-weight, with pleasing textural richness to the guava flavors. A touch of sugar and pleasing acidity that tie it all together. 13.4% alcohol. 6,945 case produced. Natural cork.
Amos Rome Estate Cabernet Franc Rosé Lake Chelan 2022 $22
90 points
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Block 14 and was grown specifically for rosé. Due to the abundance of the vintage, it required three thinning passes to ripen the fruit ,which was harvested October 28th. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, it’s a pale gold color. Aromas of strawberry, mineral, dried herb, and melon lead to full-bodied, rounded flavors. It’s a broad-shouldered rosé, but the acid of the vintage and site stands it up. 14.5% alcohol. 200 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Alluvium Amar Rosé Columbia Valley 2021 $32
87 points
This is a blend of 35% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 21% Syrah. Aromas of strawberry gummy and spice lead to dry, quite broad-feeling flavors that get bogged down. 12.6% alcohol. 100 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
City Limits Pink Street Rosé Columbia Valley 2022 $15
87 points
Fruit for this Zinfandel-driven wine comes from Milbrandt, StoneTree, and Olsen Vineyards. Aromas of herb and red fruit lead to fuller-feeling flavors. It needs a bit more acidity to pull it all together. 13.5% alcohol. Screwcap.
SPARKLING
Township 7 Infinite Series Sirius Sparkling Wine Fraser Valley 2015 $80
93 points, Critic’s Choice
This is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown at the winery’s estate vineyard, made in the traditional method. The aromas are captivating, with notes of brioche, pear, and spice. Fresh, broad-feeling flavors follow, showing pleasing depth and intensity. Lively acidity keeps the interest way up, drawing out the flavors on the finish. It’s an absolutely delicious, modern-style sparkler. 12% alcohol. 250 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Sage Rat Pét Nat Rouge Sparkling Barbera Yakima Valley 2022 $26
90 points, Critic’s Choice
This is the only sparkling Barbera I am aware of in the state. Coming from Portteus Vineyard and fermented with carbonic maceration, it’s pomegranate seed-colored. The aromas bring bright notes of rhubarb and plum. On the palate, the fruit is flavorful, the acid is high, and so is the intensity. A light mousse backs up this Lambrusco-style wine. One would like to see more bubbles, but the acidity and purity more than make up the difference. Pet-Nat fans, be on the lookout. 12.5% alcohol. 165 case produced. Crowncap.
Portlandia Brut Sparkling Wine Columbia Valley NV $22
89 points
The aromas are bright, with notes of pear, melon, and grapeskin. Broad, fuller-feeling flavors follow, framed by a lively mousse and bright acidity. It’s a very inviting, spot-on sparkler, with the focus on direct enjoyment. The price is right. 12% alcohol. 4,880 cases produced. Natural cork.
Portlandia Rosé Sparkling Wine Columbia Valley NV $22
88 points
This wine was produced in the traditional method. Pale pink colored, the aromas bring notes of strawberry and fresh herb. Thicker feeling flavors follow. There’s plenty of enjoyment and value to be had. 12% alcohol. 4,880 cases produced. Natural cork.
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