Sean P. Sullivan's Northwest Wine Report

At Northwest Wine Report, all scores come from blind tastings in varietal/style sets. Read more about this site’s process for rating and reviewing wines. Read about the Northwest Wine Report rating system and special designations. Read about how to interpret scores. Read definitions of closure type listings.

 

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Avennia Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley 2019 $95
94 points, Cellar Stocker
100% varietal, all of the fruit comes from this esteemed site. The aromas offer enchanting notes of dried leaf, flower, dried herb, cherry pits, and a dash of cinnamon. Supple, sophisticated dark fruit flavors follow, showing polish and sneaky intensity. Bright acid and well-integrated tannins provide support. It’s such a pretty reflection of the vintage, with a lot of elegance but no shortage of richness. Best from 2029-2037. 14.7% alcohol. 70 cases produced.

Trothe Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2019 $234
93 points, Cellar Stocker
Trothe is a new project launched in the 2018 vintage by the Andrews Family, who have been farming in the Horse Heaven Hills for generations. This young wine is still deep in its shell. Aromas of Horse Heaven herbs, plum, and black cherry are complicated by barrel spices. The black cherry flavors are fresh and focused. There’s a whole lot of structure behind it all. Best from 2028 to 2036. 14.7% alcohol. 205 cases produced.

Prospice Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2019 $60
92 points, Cellar Stocker
Seven Hills Vineyard has made its name in large part over the decades excelling with Cabernet Sauvignon, and this is an exquisite example of what the site has to offer. The aromas boast notes of dried leaf, flower, herb, and cherry, with plum accents in the background. Rounded blue and purple fruit flavors follow, with plenty of structure to support it all. It’s tasty and classy. Give it some additional time in bottle or decant to see it at its fullest. Best after 2027. 14.8% alcohol. 123 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Prospice Reserve Quintessence Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2018 $80
89 points
Fruit for this wine comes from a young site, but one that has made an immediate impact. The aromas are high-pitched, with notes of ember, licorice, and black cherry. A full-bodied, creamy-feeling palate follows. A lingering finish caps it off. The palate is impressive, but the aromas don’t fully sync up. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 14.8% alcohol. 126 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

TruthTeller Jester’s Stage J&S Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2020 $48
89 points
Aromas of jalapeño and green pepper mix with black cherry and fresh herb. Soft, fresh, chocolatey flavors follow. It explores the greener side of the variety. 14.4% alcohol. 93 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2019 $44
88 points
Blended with 7% Merlot, 7% Malbec, and 2% Petit Verdot, this wine was aged in 45% new French oak. The aromas are fruit forward, with notes of cassis and berry, showing some initial reduction. The red and black fruit flavors are compact and fuller around the edges and lighter in the middle. A grip of tannin finishes it off. Decant to see it at its best. 14.5% alcohol.

Floating Balance Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2020 $39
87 points
100% varietal, the aromas bring notes of black currant, licorice, fruit leather, and tin. Center-focused, pruney-seeming flavors follow. 14.6% alcohol. 24 cases produced. Screwcap.


OTHER RED BORDEAUX VARIETIES

Trothe Limited Malbec Horse Heaven Hills 2019 $162
93 points
Trothe is a new, high-end project from the Andrews Family, who have been farming in the Horse Heavens for generations. This is the winery’s first offering of Malbec. One sniff and the variety announces itself, with notes of freshly peeled satsuma, plum, flower, and a healthy sprinkling of dried and fresh herb. Palate-coating blue and black fruit flavors follow, bringing volume and intensity. It sails on the fruit and barrel note-filled finish. Truly delicious stuff. 14.8% alcohol. 40 cases produced.

Longship Mr. Shuffle Carménère Yakima Valley 2020 $50
91 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Sugarloaf Vineyard. There’s no mistaking the variety, with its pungent aromas of jalapeño, green pepper, fresh green herb, and cherry. Textured, soft, fuller-feeling flavors follow. The balance on the palate is spot on. Lovers of this variety, look no further. 14% alcohol. 60 cases produced.

TruthTeller The Clever Fool Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2020 $40
91 points
The aromas bring notes of green pepper, flower, cherry, and barrel spice. A well-balanced, textured, flavorful palate follows. There’s much to enjoy. 14.5% alcohol. 150 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Longship Bad Wolf Sugarloaf Vineyard Malbec Yakima Valley 2020 $40
89 points
100% varietal, the aromas are generous, with notes of cedar, blueberry, bright green herb, dried cherry, barrel spice, and whiffs of chocolate. The palate is fuller around the edges and lighter through the middle, with tart, bright acidity putting it all in frame. Barrel notes linger on the finish. It’s hard to identify the variety, but it still offers a lot of appeal. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. 14.5% alcohol. 150 cases produced.

Category 5 Petit Verdot Columbia Valley 2019 $48
88 points
Two-thirds of the fruit for this wine comes from Dionysus Vineyard in the White Bluffs, the rest from Dineen in the Rattlesnake Hills. The aromas show notes of vanilla extract and black cherry, with the oak out in front. Dried black cherry flavors follow, backed by firm tannins and bright acidity. Decant. 14.9% alcohol. 75 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Floating Balance Estate Grown Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2020 $34
88 points
This is 100% varietal. The aromas offer notes of dried leaf, licorice, and currant along with some reduction. Chocolate and red fruit flavors follow, fuller along the edges, lighter in the middle. Prune notes provide accents. The tannins give a light grip. 14.4% alcohol. 58 cases produced. Screwcap.

Greenwing Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $30
88 points
This is a Columbia Valley-focused sister winery to Canvasback. Blended with 17% Merlot and 5% Syrah and then aged 18 months in stainless steel and French oak, aromas of woodspice, fresh cassis, blueberry, and herb lead to silky feeling blue and black fruit flavors. A light grip of tannin caps it off, with the intensity dipping on the finish. 14.2% alcohol. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Pondera Stillwater Creek Vineyard Malbec Royal Slope 2020 $34
87 points
The aromas bring notes of plum, herb, and tangerine rind along with barrel spices. Fruit and barrel mix together on the palate, lending a lightly creamy feel. Vanilla notes dominate on the finish. 14.8% alcohol. 191 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Pondera Reserve Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2016 $65
87 points
The aromas are high-pitched, with notes of vanilla, woodspice, sweet spices, and cherry. Fruit and barrel play equal parts on the palate, with abundant vanilla notes and a slightly gritty feel. There’s the tart freshness of the vintage, but it provides a strange accent. 14.8% alcohol. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.


RHONE-STYLE BLENDS

Chateau Ste Michelle Yakima Valley Limited Release Red Blend Yakima Valley 2018 $55
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Winemaker Lacey Steffey takes the lead on this wine. 72% Syrah, 14% Mourvèdre, 11% Grenache, and 3% Cinsault, the aromas offer fascinating notes of citrus twist, purple fruit, and bright herb, with dark fruit in the background. Supremely rich, layered black fruit flavors follow. The textural richness and mouthfeel are thoroughly captivating. Drink it at a cool 62 degrees to see it at its best. 14.8% alcohol. 1,412 cases produced.

Avennia Justine Red Wine Yakima Valley 2020 $40
92 points
This is a blend of 60% Grenache, 23% Mourvèdre, and 17% Syrah, with fruit coming from Upland, Heart of the Hill, and Oldfield vineyards respectively. The aromas are subdued, with notes of dark raspberry, plum, ember, and orange twist. Full-bodied, creamy-feeling flavors follow. A warm finish caps it off. One would like to see fuller expression aromatically. The palate, however, is glorious. 14.8% alcohol. 320 cases produced.

Prospice GSM Columbia Valley 2020 $45
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Grenache makes up three quarters of this wine, with the rest Syrah (15%) and Mourvèdre (10%). The aromas jump out the glass, with notes of raspberry, black and white pepper, flower, orange rind, and dried herb, showing mesmerizing purity and detail. Soft, supple, juicy flavors follow. It’s a dazzler, with the focus all on purity. 14.2% alcohol. 155 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Quady North GSM Rogue Valley 2020 $25
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Grenache (39%) takes the lead on this wine followed by Syrah (32%) and Mourvèdre. The aromas are expressive, with notes of red currant, dark raspberry, white pepper, dried herb, and a whiff of smoke. Soft, plump, sultry flavors follow, offering plenty of textural appeal. There’s impressive hang time on the finish. Drink it at a cool 62 degrees for best results. 13.7% alcohol. 375 cases produced. Screwcap.

Prospice Aprica Columbia Valley 2020 $28
90 points, Editor’s Choice
This is almost three quarters Syrah, with the rest Mourvèdre (13%), Grenache (10%), and Viognier. The aromas offer notes of blue and black fruit, herb, black pepper, grilled meat, orange rind, ember, flower, and whiffs of smoke. Tart, medium-bodied, textured red and black fruit flavors follow. The tannins have a lightly grainy, almost rustic feel initially that softens considerably with significant time open. Decant, give it a few years of bottle age, or both. When it gets where it’s going though, there is considerable value to be had. 13.7% alcohol. 121 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Longship Runestone Red Blend Columbia Valley 2020 $38
88 points
Mourvèdre makes up 46% of this wine, with the rest Grenache (32%), Syrah (18%), and bits of Cinsault, Counoise, and Syrah. The aromas are subdued, with notes of red fruit, fresh herb, and medicine. The flavors seem lighter styled – surprising for the listed alcohol – with a fuller finish. 15% alcohol. 129 cases produced.

 

SYRAH, GRENACHE, AND MOURVÈDRE

Avennia Arnaut Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley 2020 $60
95 points, Critic’s Choice
Boushey Vineyard is holy ground for Syrah in Washington. This is yet another wine that will inspire a vinous pilgrimage. Dried herb, smoked meat, iron, and dark fruit aromas lead to full-bodied, saturated, palate-staining dark fruit flavors. The intensity is off the charts – earthshaking, with wave upon wave of dark fruit flavors. There’s plenty of structure around it all. It sticks around for a long, slightly warm finish. Best enjoyed at a cool 62 degrees. Give it a long decant if drinking in the near term. 15% alcohol. 365 cases produced.

Chateau Ste Michelle Limited Release Mourvèdre Columbia Valley 2018 $36
93 points, Critic’s Choice
This wine is 100% varietal and crafted by winemaker Tristan Butterfield. The aromas are intriguing, with notes of herb, dark raspberry, anise, black pepper, and cherry. Luxurious, pitch-black, textured flavors follow, with an extremely high thread count. It’s impressive, with the pleasure – truly full-on hedonism – as much about feel as flavor. 14.9% alcohol. 971 cases produced.

Dossier Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2019 $60
93 points
Dossier is a new project by former NFL star Sidney Rice and businessman Tim Lenihan, with Billo Naravane (of Rasa) making the wine. With fruit hailing from the Rocks District, the aromas pop, with notes of black olive brine, charcuterie plate, soot, and other savory notes accented by flowers. Velvety-soft olive and dark fruit flavors follow. Wet stone notes persist on the extremely long finish. It’s an impressive opening hand. 13.5% alcohol. 189 cases produced.

Trothe Syrah Horse Heaven Hills 2020 $198
93 points
This is the inaugural release of Syrah from Trothe, a new project from the Andrews family with Ray McKee as winemaker. Blended with 7% Viognier, the aromas bring a cornucopia of notes, including freshly mortared herb, dark berry, black peppercorn, espresso, orange rind, and a whiff of juniper berry, showing complexity. Fresh, plentiful, but still sleeker-feeling blue and purple fruit flavors follow. It’s a very classy wine that impresses as much for what it leaves unsaid as what it says. 14.3% alcohol. 95 cases produced.

Quady North Mae’s Vineyard Flagship Syrah Applegate Valley 2018 $75
92 points, Critic’s Choice
The designation for this wine comes from the winery’s favorite lot of Syrah. The aromas entice, with notes of plum, currant, black pepper, and cassis. Palate-coating, luscious dark fruit flavors follow. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s full throttle, with oodles of hedonism but never goes over the top. 14.4% alcohol. 104 cases produced.

Chateau Ste Michelle Limited Release Grenache Columbia Valley 2018 $36
91 points
Crafted by winemaker Holly Wells, this wine is 100% varietal. The aromas intrigue, with notes of cigar box, white pepper, iron, herb, raspberry, and flower. Lush, textured, candied red fruit flavors follow. The appeal is as much about feel as flavor. 15.5% alcohol. 473 cases produced.

Prospice Resurgent Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2020 $45
91 points
Fruit for this wine comes from a vineyard with cobblestone soils, though not located in the Rocks District. The aromas are subdued, with notes of berry, dried herb, soot, white pepper, olive, and smoke. Smooth-feeling fruit and savory flavors follow, lingering on the herb-filled finish. There’s surprising freshness. A light medicinal note provides an accent. 13.8% alcohol. 151 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Quady North 4-2,A Syrah Rogue Valley 2019 $27
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Pronounced ‘fortooay’ and named after the fruit drink mixes made by the winemaker’s daughter, the aromas are subdued, with notes of ripe raspberry, herb, ember, and dark fruit. The palate shows polish, texture, and class. It’s an outstanding value. 14.2% alcohol. 400 cases produced.

Category 5 Mourvèdre Weinbau Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2019 $48
90 points
Winemaker Jason Smith often blends across warmer and cooler sites, making this 100% varietal, single vineyard wine a particular treat. The aromas offer notes of cinder, dried lemon rind, currant, bramble, black pepper, and, initially, whiffs of tire rubber reduction. Ripe, full-bodied flavors follow. The tart freshness of the vintage ties it all together. Decant and pair it with grilled lamb chop. 14.7% alcohol. 75 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Deuce Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2016 $NA
90 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s estate vineyard, Moonlight. Aged 34 months in Missouri oak, the aromas offer notes of vanilla bean, clove, and other sweet barrel spices along with freshly shaved pencil lead, with the wood providing most of the action. Full-feeling, silky-soft dark fruit and abundant barrel flavors follow. Vanilla and coconut notes linger on the finish. Some will find the oak influence too dominating. For those who enjoy that style, it is very well done. 14.4% alcohol.

Prospice Les Collines Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2020 $45
90 points
Les Collines is a singular site for Syrah. The aromas here bring notes of violet, chopped parsley, orange twist, smoke, bacon fat, and olive. Medium-bodied, fresh, clearly lower-alcohol flavors follow. It has a lightly grainy feel. Give it time in bottle or decant. 13.4% alcohol. 101 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Quady North Mae’s Vineyard Syrah Applegate Valley 2018 $35
90 points
This wine is named after the winemaker’s oldest daughter, Margaux Mae. Aromas of dark fruit, fruit leather, and cranberry lead to pitch-black, rich fruit flavors. There’s a lovely spice profile on the finish. Give it time to open up. 14.2% alcohol. 75 cases produced.

Quady North Bomba Grenache Rogue Valley 2020 $25
88 points
Raspberry, plum, hard candy, and citrus aromas lead to full feeling, rounded, lightly smoky flavors with a textured feel. There’s some smoke impact here, but for those who don’t notice it, the rewards (and value) are substantial. 14.1% alcohol. 207 cases produced.

Quady North Steelhead Run Vineyard Syrah Applegate Valley 2017 $35
86 points
Aromas of charcoal, mesquite smoke, and dark berry lead to quite smoky flavors, with the intensity trailing toward the finish. The smoke impact from the vintage appears to be substantial. 14.4% alcohol. 73 cases produced.


PINOT NOIR

Dr. Loosen & Jay Christopher Appassionata Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2012 $185
94 points
This is a project focusing on the ageability of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir by legendary German winemaker Ernst Loosen. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of dark raspberry, forest floor, cinnamon, and wild strawberry, showing plenty of detail. The palate is flavorful, layered, and seamless, showing exquisite balance, depth, length, and sophistication. It’s glorious, in a sweet spot now but with room to grow. Drink now, you won’t be disappointed. Give it five or 10 years, it’ll be there waiting for you. 13.5% alcohol.

Appassionata Andante Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2017 $135
93 points
This is a project from German winemaker Ernst Loosen, with fruit coming from the winery’s estate vineyard. Named after the second of three movements of Beethoven’s Appassionata Sonata, the aromas are immediately captivating, with notes of black tea, satsuma, flower, raspberry, and dried herb. The flavors bring delicacy, intensity, sophistication, and most of all length. It’s a complete knee-buckler. 13.5% alcohol.

Appassionata Allegro Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2019 $95
93, Cellar Stocker
The youngest of the three offerings from the winery, this wine is named after the third movement in Beethoven’s Piano Sonata No. 23. The aromas are effusive, with notes of orange rind, dark strawberry, raspberry, cinnamon, and forest floor. The palate is lithe, juicy, exuberant, and flavorful, a mix of layering and lightness. It’s flat out delicious – a classic Willamette Valley Pinot. Best after 2025. 13.5% alcohol.

Lange Freedom Hill Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $80
93 points, Cellar Stocker
Lange has been sourcing fruit from Freedom Hill since 1990. This wine is still in its shell, with brooding notes of dark fruit, black tea, plum, love, and spice. Full-feeling, palate coating flavors follow, drawing out on the long, fruit-filled finish. It’s an exclamation point of a wine, showing depth, richness, and intensity along with plenty of freshness. Best after 2026. 13.5% alcohol. 250 cases produced.

Lange Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $40
93 points, Critic’s Choice
The majority of this vintage comes from the winery’s estate vineyard and Freedom Hill. The aromas are immediately captivating, with notes of fresh berry, plum, flower, and tea leaves. There’s laser-focused purity to the palate, along with freshness and texture. A long finish only adds to the delight. It’s an understated stunner, with unabashed appeal. 13.5% alcohol. 2,350 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Lange Yamhill-Carlton Assemblage Yamhill-Carlton 2021 $80
93 points, Critic’s Choice
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of black tea, flower, plum, and spice. The flavors are achingly pure and generous, along with a pleasing mouthfeel and plenty of intensity. It’s flat out gorgeous, with detail and sophistication as well as depth and generosity. More, please. 13.5% alcohol. 450 cases produced. Screwcap.

King Estate Inscription Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $20
92 points, Value Pick
Fruit for this wine comes from seven different sites. The aromas bring notes of plum, orange rind, black tea, anise, and herb. Full-feeling flavors follow, showing depth, richness, and balance. It’s capped off by a long finish. It’s an outrageous value, showing a lot of detail. 13.5% alcohol. 40,000 cases produced. Screwcap.

Lange Three Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $55
92 points
This wine is a blend of Yamhill, Freedom Hill, and the winery’s estate vineyards in Dundee Hills. The aromas are brooding, with notes of dark plum, dried flower, cigar box, and black tea. The palate is medium-plus bodied, polished and flavorful, showing depth, texture, and impressive freshness. It’s got a big yum factor. 13.5% alcohol. 450 cases produced. Screwcap.

Winter’s Hill Estate Grown Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2019 $44
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Coming from vines planted in 1990, he aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of cherry, wet stone, rain-soaked tree bark, tea leaves, and satsuma rind. Lighter-weight, juicy flavors follow, showing vibrancy, intensity, and length. It’s all about delicacy, bringing it in abundance. 13.1% alcohol. 273 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Granville Basalt Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $45
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Fruit for this wine was fermented 25% whole cluster. Aromas of wet stone are at the fore, followed by notes of mountain strawberry, wildflower, and dried herb. The palate is rounded in feel, lithe and juicy, showing plenty of delicacy. It’s compelling, particularly its purity. Pair it with salmon fresh off the grill topped with a berry chutney. 13.5% alcohol. 275 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Love & Squalor Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2019 $28
91 points
This is an aromatic wine, with notes of potpourri, cinnamon stick, celery salt, and red and blue fruit. Medium-plus bodied flavors follow, showing generosity in feel and flavor but also a pleasing fleetness of foot. Lightly grainy tannins back it up. Give it some time in bottle or decant. 13.5% alcohol.

Winter’s Hill Watershed Estate Grown Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2021 $25
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Dried flower, sweet spice, and raspberry aromas lead to a medium-plus bodied palate, with center-focused strawberry flavors with plentiful coffee accents. Mint notes emerge on the finish. This young wine is still in its shell at present, but the promise is clear. Give it time in bottle or a long decant. 13.7% alcohol. 270 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Iterum Old Friend Arlyn Vineyard Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains 2019 $85
90 points
Iterum is a new project from long-time Willamette Valley winemaker Joe Dobbes. This wine starts out tucked away, with notes of cigar box, dried leaf, and whiffs of evergreen. Svelte, textured flavors follow. Cinnamon notes linger on the finish. The appeal is as much about feel as flavors. Give it time in bottle or decant. 13.5% alcohol. 65 cases produced.

Love & Squalor Temperance Hill Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills 2017 $54
90 points
Aged 18 months in French oak, barrel notes are at the fore, with aromas of butterscotch and sweet spices followed by red fruit. The palate is ethereally light and juicy, backed by a light grip of tannin. Vanilla notes linger on the finish. It’s a pretty interpretation of the variety, mixing fruit and barrel. Decant. 13.5% alcohol. 50 cases produced.

Iterum Clone 114 Orchard House Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 2019 $75
89 points
This is a new project from Joe Dobbes (Dobbes, Wine by Joe). The aromas offer notes of dried raspberry, dried satsuma rind, licorice, and potpourri. Medium-bodied flavors follow, with the fruit seeming somewhat desiccated on an otherwise delicious wine. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 13.5% alcohol. 139 cases produced.

Iterum Clone 115 Orchard House Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 2020 $75
89 points
A new venture by Joe Dobbes, the aromas boast notes of freshly brewed coffee, barrel spice, cigar box, and menthol, with the fruit subdued and difficult to tease out, with smoky notes in the background. Lightly smoky flavors follow, juicy, with a textured feel. The smoke impact is light enough many might not notice, and if so, it’s delicious. 13.5% alcohol. 163 cases produced.

Oregon Territory Pinot Noir Oregon 2020 $20
88 points
Aromas of plum, cigar box, cedar, and red fruit lead to medium-bodied, slightly sweet, lightly smoky flavors. There’s some smoke impact here, but also a lot of goodness that offsets it. Some may not notice. Others might enjoy the accent. Either way, there’s good value to be had. 13.5% alcohol. 3,176 cases produced. Screwcap.

 

OTHER RED VARIETIES & BLENDS

Love & Squalor Gamay Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $32
91 points
This is an aromatically expressive wine, with notes of raspberry, potpourri, orange rind, a healthy dash of cinnamon, and a whiff of soil and manure. A layered palate follows, loaded with tart, crunchy red fruit flavors. The acid is impressive. 13% alcohol. 200 cases produced.

Long Walk Field Notes Rogue Valley 2019 $25
90 points, Critic’s Choice
The aromas offer appealing notes of kelp, strawberry, and herb. The medium-bodied red fruit flavors are vibrant and seamless, with a light grip of tannins on the finish. It’s a complete delight. Give it a short decant. 13.8% alcohol. 300 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Longship Once is Enough Petite Sirah Wahluke Slope 2020 $38
88 points
100% varietal, the aromas offer notes of mint, vanilla, freshly hewn wood, assorted sweet barrel spices, and dark fruit. Fruit and barrel intermingle on the creamy-feeling palate. There are good things happening, but the oak gets too far out front. 14.5% alcohol. 155 cases produced.

Chateau Ste Michelle Gamay Noir Carousel Vineyard Yakima Valley 2020 $40
87 points
Gamay is an extreme rarity in Washington. The aromas bring notes of tire rubber, tin, and red fruit, showing substantial reduction. Over time, stem notes emerge. Medium-bodied, bright red fruit flavors follow, backed by lively acid. There are good things happening here, but unfortunately the reduction gets in the way. Give it time in bottle or decant to clear it. 13.5% alcohol. 473 cases produced. Screwcap.



CHARDONNAY

Appassionata Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2019 $75
92 points, Cellar Stocker
This is a project by German winemaker Ernst Loosen, focusing on estate fruit. The aromas bring notes of flint, candlewax, gun smoke, peach, and a whiff of cinnamon. A quite flavorful, textured palate follows, with notes of peach and citrus. A long, long fruit-filled finish ups the interest considerably. Decant or hold until after 2024. 13.5% alcohol.

Granville Basalt Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2021 $45
90 points
Fruit for this wine was aged 12 months sur lie in neutral French oak. Aromas of clarified butter, white peach, and wet stone lead to a lighter-styled palate, with flavors that show elegance, freshness, and length. It’s a pretty offering of the variety. 12.5% alcohol. 275 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

King Estate Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2021 $22
90 points, Critic’s Choice
This wine is whole cluster pressed and then fermented in oak, stainless steel, and concrete egg before being aged 10 months in 15% new French oak. The aromas are effusive, with notes of pear, lemon, and peach, along with whiffs of melon. The stone fruit flavors show pleasing textural richness while remaining fleet of foot. 13.5% alcohol. 4,400 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Iterum Estate Orchard House Vineyard Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills 2019 $75
88 points
The aromas bring unusual notes of bruised apple and wet clay. The palate is on the lighter side of medium-bodied, showing texture but not wholly staying together. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 13% alcohol. 338 cases produced.

Layne Chardonnay Applegate Valley 2020 $32
88 points
This vineyard is located on the Kubli Bench. The aromas open with notes of freshly cut apple, peach, clarified butter, and crayon. The palate is medium-plus bodied, fuller around the edges and lighter in the middle. It brings a lot of enjoyment. 13.7% alcohol. 151 cases produced.

Winter’s Hill Estate Grown Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2021 $44
88 points
The aromas bring notes of apple, pear, lees, nutshell, struck flint, and spice. Medium-bodied, fresh flavors follow. The two don’t seem entirely in sync. 13.4% alcohol. 152 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

RIESLING

Love & Squalor Reserve Riesling Willamette Valley 2016 $20
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Sunnyside Vineyard makes up half of this wine, with Roncali the rest. The aromas are effusive, with notes of diesel, lime leaf, lemon iced tea, and honeysuckle. A bone-dry, broad-feeling, richly flavorful palate follows, showing pleasing details. A lingering finish caps it off. It’s a beautiful example of the joys of aged Riesling. 13.3% alcohol. 75 cases produced.

Love & Squalor Riesling Willamette Valley 2016 $28
90 points
The color shows a wine over six years old. The aromas offer aged notes of dried flower, mint, lime, thyme, and botrytis. Pleasing, off-dry flavors follow. Bright acid keeps it in focus. 12.8% alcohol.

Castle & Crown Dry Corfu Crossing Vineyard Riesling Royal Slope 2021 $24
89 points
Ripe peach, lime, and honeysuckle aromas lead to bone-dry stone fruit flavors. The acid frames it all nicely, and the finish lingers. The warmth of the vintage shows on an otherwise lovely wine. 12.2% alcohol. 144 cases produced. Screwcap.

Appassionata GG Riesling Chehalem Mountains 2017 $50
88 points
This wine was fermented in a 3,000-liter, neutral oak casks and then spent two years on lees prior to bottling. The aromas offer notes of cinnamon, lime leaf, geranium, orange peel, tarragon, and lees. Off-dry, medium-bodied flavors follow, showing richness and layering, with plenty of acid to keep it all in focus. A medicinal note on the finish causes distraction. It fascinates, more intellectually than hedonistically. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 13.5% alcohol. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Castle & Crown Old Vine Red Willow Vineyard Riesling Yakima Valley 2021 $28
88 points
Not a lot of Riesling comes out of this esteemed vineyard. The aromas are quiet out of the gate, with notes of flower, lime, creamsicle, and ginger. Broad, almost creamy-feeling flavors follow. It wants a bit more acid to tie it all together. 12.8% alcohol. 48 cases produced. Screwcap.

 

SAUVIGNON BLANC & WHITE BORDEAUX-STYLE BLENDS

Appassionata Über Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc Chehalem Mountains 2021 $50
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Fruit for this wine comes from a one-acre section of this vineyard. The aromas are subdued, with notes of herb, lime verbena, other citrus, and whiffs of tropical fruit. The flavors are broad in feel, coating the palate, showing weight, layering, and nuance. Brisk, lemony acidity keeps it all in focus and the interest high. It’s delicious. 12.5% alcohol.

Dossier Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley 2021 $42
92 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Lonesome Spring Ranch. Given 42 hours of skin contact and fermented in mostly stainless steel along with neutral barrel, it was subsequently aged sur lie for one year with weekly bâtonnage (8% new oak). Fresh herb, citrus, kiwi, and whiffs of gooseberry lead to a full-bodied, richly flavored and textural palate. A fruit-filled lemon and kiwi-filled finish caps it all off. For those looking for an outstanding full-bodied, textural expression of this variety, look no further. 13.7% alcohol. 229 cases produced.

DeLille Chaleur Blanc Columbia Valley 2021 $42
92 points, Cellar Stocker
Chaleur Blanc is consistently one of the top white wines in Washington, and this vintage does not disappoint. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (67%) and Semillon with fruit coming from Boushey, Sagemoor, Klipsun, Phinny Hill, and Conner-Lee vineyards, the aromas enchant, with notes of lemon pith, fresh green herb, chalk, lemon oil, and white grapefruit. Lightly creamy-feeling kiwi, pineapple, and guava flavors follow on the medium-bodied palate, showing the warmth of the year. Downright tasty, it’s enjoyable now, but much of the pleasure of this wine always comes from some bottle age. Best after 2024. 13.9% alcohol. 5,000 cases produced.

Iterum Old Friend Grove Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Willamette Valley 2021 $50
91 points
The aromas offer notes of lemon curd, spice, white flower, and herb. The palate is medium-bodied and flavorful, with rounded-feeling fresh squeezed lemon and kiwi notes. The acid is impressive. 12.5% alcohol. 116 cases produced.

Floating Balance Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley 2021 $17
85 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Breezy Slope Vineyard. The aromas bring notes of tin, green herb, green mango, and lemon verbena. Full-feeling flavors follow, with a cheesy finish. 13.2% alcohol. 58 cases produced. Screwcap.

 

OTHER WHITES

Chateau Ste Michelle Chenin Blanc Horse Heaven Hills 2021 $26
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Winemaker Brian Mackey takes the lead on this wine. The aromas are immediately identifiable as Chenin Blanc, with notes of apple, talc, and hints of lemon zest. The palate is full of flavor, texture, and richness but brings plenty of freshness too. Mineral accents only up the interest. It sails on the finish, with balance throughout. It’s a truly outstanding example of this variety – one of the best I’ve had from the state. 13.0% alcohol. 596 cases produced. Screwcap.

Winter’s Hill Estate Grown Reserve Pinot Blanc Dundee Hills 2021 $29
92 points, Critic’s Choice
In a state where Chardonnay is on the rise and Pinot Gris has long been established, Pinot Blanc sometimes struggles to gain attention. Wines like this show that it deserves it. The aromas boast notes of pineapple, kiwi, and herb, showing striking clarity. The palate is broader feeling, focused, fresh, and juicy. It’s tasty. 13.5% alcohol. 224 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

King Estate Havlin Vineyard Gruner Veltliner Willamette Valley 2021 $24
91 points, Critic’s Choice
The aromas are subdued, with notes of cream, clarified butter, green melon, and herb. A medium-bodied palate follows, full of lemon, herb, and wet stone flavors that hang on the finish. 13.5% alcohol. 125 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

King Estate Domaine Estate Grown Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2021 $30
91, Critic’s Choice
Made with biodynamic grapes, this is immediately identifiable as Pinot Gris, with aromas of petroleum jelly, kiwi, green flower, and the underside of a pineapple. Medium-bodied tropical fruit flavors follow, with plenty of acid to keep them fresh and vividly in frame. A tart finish ups the interest. 13.0% alcohol. 2,000 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Winter’s Hill Estate Grown Reserve Pinot Gris Dundee Hills 2021 $29
90 points
This is a pleasing offering of the variety, with aromas of apple, pear, and a whiff of tropical fruit. Light, tart flavors follow, and the finish lingers. Pair it with grilled halibut topped with fresh mango chutney. 13.3% alcohol. 144 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Quady North Pistoleta White Table Wine Rogue Valley 2021 $20
91 points
This is a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc. The bright aromas of cantaloupe, peach, tangerine, and flower show clarity. Medium-bodied, textured stone fruit flavors follow. There’s impressive freshness that ties it all together. 13.2% alcohol. 1,675 cases produced. Screwcap.

Quady North Steel-Ox Viognier Applegate Valley 2020 $25
90 points
This is an aromatic offering, with notes of ripe peach, melon, mandarin orange skin, and white flower. Bone-dry, svelte orange and herb flavors follow. A lot of offerings of this variety live off textural richness. This one focuses on flavor. 12.6% alcohol. 227 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Liminal High Canyon Series WeatherEye Vineyard Viognier Red Mountain 2020 $50
89 points
The aromas are light, with notes of candlewax and white peach. Warm, creamy-feeling stone fruit flavors follow. The variety is hard to place. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 14.4% alcohol. 48 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

Category 5 Blanc Franc Cabernet Franc Dineen Vineyards Rattlesnake Hills 2021 $32
88 points
This is a style a few different producers are working with in the state. The aromas offer notes of sliced apple, citrus, lees, and herb, along with some phenolics, not wholly in sync. Broad feeling, fresh flavors follow, showing a light smokiness on the finish. 12.5% alcohol. 85 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerative cork.

 

OTHER WINES

Sin Banderas Dessert Wine Yakima Valley NV $42 

Only one barrel was made of this wine. It's 78% Syrah and 22% Mourvèdre, fortified with brandy. The aromas offer notes of freshly hewn wood, char, chocolate, and whiffs of thyme. Sweet, silky, layered flavors follow, hanging on the finish. The balance on the palate is impeccable. 500ml. 18% alcohol. 34 cases produced. 

Dossier Rosé Columbia Valley 2021 $28
89 points
This is all Syrah from Weinbau Vineyard, a warm site, and was fermented in oak and stainless steel. It was then aged sur lie for 12 months, with partial malolactic fermentation. Pale pink in color, the aromas offer notes of strawberry, melon, and herb. A full-bodied, layered, viscous palate follows, putting as much premium on feel as flavor. A warm finish caps it off, causing some distraction. 13.8% alcohol. 382 cases produced.

Floating Balance Pinot Noir Rosé Walla Walla Valley 2021 $19
86 points
Rosé is already a rarity in the valley, Pinot Noir even more so. The aromas offer notes of strawberry, guava, herb, and raspberry gummy. Off-dry, full-feeling flavors follow. It needs more acid to pull off the style, getting bogged down throughout. 13.5% alcohol. 30 cases produced. Screwcap.