Itä Les Collines Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2020 $48
90 points, Critic’s Choice
Itä focuses on picking earlier at higher acid and lower alcohol levels and letting the fruit speak for itself. The aromas on this wine pop, with notes of boysenberry, huckleberry, and other blue fruit along with violet and dried herb. The palate is fresh and quite restrained in style, supported by lightly grainy tannins. The purity is nothing short of dazzling. Give it a short decant, drink it at a cool 62 degrees, and put it on the dinner table to see it at its very best. Dry rubbed pork loin would do nicely. 12.7% alcohol. 201 cases produced. Microagglomerative cork.

Amos Rome Six Generations Vineyard Syrah Lake Chelan 2020 $35
89 points
Coming from a site by the winery’s tasting room and aged 18 months in oak, the aromas are fruit forward, with notes of boysenberry and dried herb. Dark fruit and barrel flavors follow. 14.7% alcohol. 225 cases produced. TCA-free microagglomerative cork.

DeLille StoneTree Vineyard Mourvèdre Wahluke Slope 2020 $49
89 points
This is a variety that excels in Washington, though this was a challenging vintage for it. Reserved aromas of cherry, peppery spice, and fresh herb lead to somewhat lighter-seeming flavors. It’s surprisingly understated for the producer and vineyard. 14.9% alcohol. 360 cases produced.

Dusted Valley Wallywood Stone Tree Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2020 $45
89 points
This is a blend of 90% Mourvèdre, 8% Syrah, and 2% Petite Sirah. The aromas are brooding, with notes of ash, pot roast, herb, and black pepper. The palate is lighter through the middle, fuller at the edges. It’s fresher in style and shows some astringency at present. Give it an extended decant to see it at its best. 14.2% alcohol. 110 cases produced. Screwcap.

Dusted Valley Tall Tales Syrah Stoney Vine Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2020 $62
88 points
Reserved aromas of olive, fresh herb, smoked meat, and a whiff of medicine lead to lighter-styled flavors that show greater intensity around the edges and are lighter in the middle. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 14.2% alcohol. 180 cases produced. Screwcap.

Dineen Estate Grown & Bottled Syrah Yakima Valley 2020 $37
87 points
Co-fermented with 3% Syrah and aged in one-third new French oak, light aromas of spice, dark fruit, and a whiff of orange twist lead to date flavors. It has a gritty feel. 14.3% alcohol.

PINOT NOIR

Lemelson Jerome Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2019 $60
94 points, Cellar Stocker
Meyer Vineyard makes up the majority of the fruit for this wine (60%), with the rest equal parts Stermer and Chestnut Hill. Aged 16 months in French oak (50% new), the aromas pull you into the glass, with notes of crushed flower, fresh tea leaves, herb, and plum. Palate coating, layered flavors follow, showing intensity and richness but also freshness. Black tea notes linger on the finish. There’s much to enjoy, both now and in the future. Best after 2025. 13.3% alcohol. 223 cases produced.

Lemelson Stermer Vineyard Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton 2019 $56
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Fruit for this wine comes from a vineyard that has been organically farmed since 1997. The aromas are intoxicating, with notes of satsuma, cherry, raspberry, dried herb, flower, and cocoa, showing nuance and detail. Deft, flavorful red fruit and plum notes follow on the palate. The finish sticks around for a 12-count. 13.2% alcohol. 228 cases produced.

Lemelson Chestnut Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains 2019 $60
92 points, Cellar Stocker
A quarter of the fruit for this wine was whole cluster pressed, and it spent 30+ days on skins during fermentation. The aromas bring notes of black licorice, dark cherry, tea leaves, woodspice, and bright green herb. The palate is broad in feel, with power, energy, and structure. It’s an infant now, best enjoyed when it grows up. Enjoy after 2025, with a long life beyond that. 13.2% alcohol. 150 cases produced.

Soter Estate Grown Mineral Springs Ranch Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton 2019 $75
92 points
This wine had a 30 day extended maceration during fermentation and was subsequently aged in French oak (45% new) for a year. It shows some reduction out of the gate, followed by notes of barrel char. Once it opens up – and it’s more than worth the wait – the enjoyment begins, with plentiful aromas of raspberry, sour cherry, and herb. The palate is fresh, minerally, and chock full of layered, juicy red fruit. Best after 2026. If drinking prior to then, give it a long decant. 13.8% alcohol. 1,738 cases produced.

Lemelson Meyer Vineyard Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2019 $56
91 points
Fruit for this wine is a mixture of Dijon clones 777 and 114. Aged 15 months in French oak (50% new), brooding aromas of cola, cherry, and spice lead to medium-bodied cranberry and cherry flavors. Much of this wines remains locked away. Give it time in bottle to emerge or a long decant. Best after 2025. 13.3% alcohol. 228 cases produced.

Firesteed Pinot Noir Oregon 2021 $18
89 points, Value Pick
2021 was a giving vintage, and we see that here. Fruit forward aromas of plum, mandarin orange, herb, and violet lead to well-balanced flavors on the lighter side of medium-bodied. There’s good value to be had. 20,000 cases produced. Screwcap.

Planet Oregon Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $24
88 points
This young wine is still settling in, with the aromas of fresh herb and stem seeming somewhat muddled. The palate brings plummy, medium-bodied goodness and varietal correctness. If the two sync, it moves up. As is, there’s still value to be had. 13.4% alcohol. 25,000 cases produced. Screwcap.

RED BLENDS

DeLille Doyenne Columbia Valley 2020 $50
91 points
Syrah makes up 60% of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruit comes from a who’s who list of vineyards: Grand Ciel, Ciel du Cheval, StoneTree, Quintessence, Upchurch, Discovery, and Boushey. Aromas of dark blue fruit, fresh herb, cherry, flower, coffee, and a dash of cinnamon lead to plump, well-structured pit fruit flavors. The appeal is as much about feel as flavor. 14.4% alcohol. 1,700 cases produced.

Luke The Companion Red Blend Columbia Valley 2020 $25
90 points, Critic’s Choice
This is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, and 14% Syrah, finished with bits of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. The aromas are forward, with notes of blackberry, bramble, tar, dried herb, flower, and anise. Pleasing blue and black fruit flavors follow, with tannins that bring some chewy rusticity. Give it extended time in the decanter and the rewards will be there. 13.8% alcohol. 7,709 cases produced.

Amos Rome Estate Embers Red Wine Blend Lake Chelan 2020 $34
88 points
This is a blend of Merlot (34%), Malbec (22%), Cabernet Franc (22%), and Pinot Noir. Aged 18 months in oak, the aromas bring notes of barrel char, freshly brewed coffee, and red fruit. Medium-bodied flavors follow. 14.3% alcohol. 320 cases produced. TCA-free microagglomerative cork.

Franchere Cascadia Willamette Valley 2021 $22
88 points
Pinot Noir makes up 88% of this wine, with the rest Gruner Veltliner (8%) and Syrah, all co-fermented and foot stomped. The aromas are bright, with notes of raspberry, cinnamon stick, flower, coarsely ground black pepper, and manure. Light, bright, crunchy red fruit flavors follow, backed by grainy tannins. Give it a short decant and put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. 13.1% alcohol. 150 cases produced. TCA-free microagglomerative cork.

OTHER RED VARIETIES

Amos Rome Estate Concrete Malbec Lake Chelan 2021 $37
90 points, Critic’s Choice
The aromas are subdued on this early release wine, with notes of plum, a kiss of herb, and dried orange rind emerging over time. There’s pleasing freshness and vibrancy to the flavors. It’s drinking quite young. Give it some additional time in bottle or a short decant. 14.2% alcohol. 220 cases produced. TCA-free microagglomerative cork.

Amos Rome Quail Run Vineyard Tempranillo Lake Chelan 2020 $35
88 points
This is 100% varietal aged 18 months in American oak. Aromas of orange rind, spice, and purple fruit lead to lithe flavors, with plentiful barrel accents. It’s interesting, though the intensity doesn’t always stay consistent throughout. 14% alcohol. 250 cases produced. TCA-free microagglomerative cork.

Dusted Valley Stone Tree Vineyard Petite Sirah Wahluke Slope 2020 $36
88 points
Blended with just a pinch of Syrah (2%), the aromas bring notes of purple fruit, orange rind, barrel spice, and flower. Medium-plus bodied flavors follow, with dry tannins that give a very firm grip. 14.5% alcohol. 880 cases produced. Screwcap.

CHARDONNAY

Dusted Valley Olsen Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley 2021 $32
91 points
Fruit for this wine comes from a site that tops out at 1,350 feet above sea level – high by the standards of most plantings in Washington. Aromas of squash, apple, herb, stone fruit, and spice lead to medium-bodied flavors that show pleasing apricot and other stone fruit subtleties. There’s length on the finish. 13.2% alcohol. 490 cases produced. Screwcap.

Luke Chardonnay Ancient Lakes 2021 $21
91 points, Critic’s Choice
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Evergreen Vineyard, one of the top Chardonnay sites in the state. Aged in oak (about 10% new), the aromas offer notes of pear, brioche, talc, and cream soda. Well-balanced, lightly creamy-feeling pear and apple flavors follow. It’s very varietal and a big-time value. 14.2% alcohol. 1,800 cases produced.

Amos Rome Estate Chardonnay Lake Chelan 2020 $35
90 points, Critic’s Choice
Most of this wine was raised in stainless steel (80%), with the rest in oak. Harvested September 8th, aromas of green apple and melon rind lead to full bodied, textured flavors, backed by lemony acidity. It carries on the biscuit and citrus-filled finish. The acidity is impressive, especially considering the listed alcohol. 14.5% alcohol. 245 cases produced. TCA-free microagglomerative cork.

SPARKLING WINE

Dusted Valley Falz Pinot Noir Sparkling Wine Breezy Slope Walla Walla Valley 2019 $62
92 points, Critic’s Choice
This is the producer’s first foray into traditional method sparkling wine, and it’s an outstanding success coming from an under-appreciated site. It’s also an extremely rare sparkler from the valley. The aromas are vibrant, with notes of pear, apple, and lemon pith. Tart, racy, acid-driven citrus flavors follow. A cleansing finish caps it off. It’s delicious. 12.8% alcohol. TCA-free microagglomerative cork. 50 cases produced.

Soter Mineral Springs Estate Grown Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine Yamhill-Carlton 2018 $72
90 points
This wine is a blend of Pinot Noir (79%) and Chardonnay that was aged four years en tirage. Made in the traditional method, it was disgorged in March of 2022 and received 6g/L dosage. A pretty pomegranate seed color, aromas of raspberry, apricot, and strawberry lead to a brisk, flavorful palate. The fruit hangs on the finish. 12.8% alcohol. 1,100 cases produced.

Aquilini Già Bella Méthode Traditionelle Cabernet Sauvignon Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine Red Mountain 2020 $40
89 points
To my knowledge, this is the first traditional method sparkling wine to come from Red Mountain. Aromas of brioche, cherry, and raspberry lead to fuller feeling flavors. It’s a very pleasant surprise from this typically red wine-dominated appellation. 12.5% alcohol. 1,200 cases produced.

OTHER WHITES

Troon Druid’s Fluid Biodynamic Oregon White Blend Estate White Wine Applegate Valley 2021 $25
92 points, Critic’s Choice
This is a blend of 65% Vermentino, 22% Marsanne, and 13% Roussanne. The latter two were whole cluster pressed to stainless steel before being moved to neutral oak barrels for fermentation. With 100% malolactic fermentation, aromas of candlewax, peach, and apricot lead to a full-feeling palate, chock full of stone and other fruit flavors. It’s delicious, with a long, richly flavored finish that kicks it up a notch. 12.6% alcohol. 285 cases produced. TCA-free microagglomerative cork.

Amos Rome Diounne’s Vineyard Chenin Blanc Lake Chelan 2021 $26
91 points
Raised in stainless steel, this is an aromatic offering of the variety, with notes of melon, herb, apple, and lemon balm. A full bodied, textured palate follows, framed by juicy lemon notes. The acid is impressive, as is the length. 14% alcohol. 100 cases produced. TCA-free microagglomerative cork.

Amos Rome Estate Malbec Rosé Lake Chelan 2021 $21
90 points, Critic’s Choice
Fruit for this wine comes from Block 14 at the winery’s estate vineyard. Harvested October 12th at 24.7 Brix, it’s an eye-catching pale peach. The aromas suggest notes of strawberry, green melon, peach skin, and a whiff of bubble gum. Full-bodied, textured flavors follow, with plenty of acid to pull off this richer style. 14.3% alcohol. 245 cases produced. TCA-free microagglomerative cork.