Below are my Wine Enthusiast reviews for March 2020. Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. Read information on how I review wines here. Read about the Wine Enthusiast rating system here. Read about how to interpret my scores here. All of these reviews are freely available on-line at the Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide. See previous Wine Enthusiast reviews re-published in this space here. Search Wine Enthusiast‘s on-line database here. Read instructions on how to find Washington wine reviews at Wine Enthusiast here.
House of Bones is a new project by Sean Boyd (owner and winemaker, (Rôtie Cellars) and Kevin Masterman (winemaker, Rotie Cellars). Boyd has shown a skilled touch with white wines. Masterman, meanwhile, has worked at Ramey, Abeja, and Corliss before joining the team at Rôtie. Those are some heavy hitting Chardonnay houses (Corliss from the Tranche label).
The 2017 House of Bones Chardonnay comes from Celilo Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge: one of the strongest white wine vintages of the last two decades from what many would say is the state’s top site for the variety. It was barrel fermented and had approximately 40% malolactic conversion. Spice, Meyer lemon and mineral aromas are out front, leading to a textured, full palate with exquisite depth, layering, and intensity. It is quite simply the best example of this variety I have had from Washington during my time at Wine Enthusiast (House of Bones 2017 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay Washington $45, 94 points, Editor’s Choice). It’s well worth seeking out and is sold from the Rôtie tasting room.
Avennia’s new Lydian wines offer superb value (Avennia 2017 Lydian Merlot Columbia Valley $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Avennia 2017 Lydian Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25, 90 points). Meanwhile the winery’s 2016 Red Willow Cabernet is a wine for the ages, seeming near immortal when I tried it (Avennia 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $95, 94 points, Cellar Selection).
The new releases from Buty include a lot of high quality wines, none more so than the winery’s 2018 60% Sémillon 21% Sauvignon 19% Muscadelle Columbia Valley ($25, 93 points, Cellar Selection). This is a unique wine for Washington. Most white Bordeaux-style blends are Sauvignon Blanc heavy. This one focuses on Semillon with a heavy compliment of Muscadelle. The latter is a variety few in Washington are working with but is always a distinctive addition to this wine. This wine is delicious now, but will have a long life ahead of it in the cellar. Meanwhile the latest from Buty’s Beast lineup offers screaming value (Beast 2017 Red Blend Columbia Valley $19, 91 points, Editor’s Choice).
When wineries in Washington first started offering Gruner Veltliner, count me as among the skeptics given our ever-warm, desert climate. A decade plus later, I stand corrected, as evidenced by wines such as this offering from Chateau Ste Michelle (Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Limited Release Grüner Veltliner Columbia Valley $26, 92 points, Editor’s Choice). If you are a fan of high acid whites, seek this one out. It’s delightful.
I’ve written a number of times previously about the strength of the Rhône-style wines coming off the Royal Slope. Gård Vintners is at the very center of this, with the Lawrence family having extensive plantings in this soon-to-be-approved appellation (Gård 2016 Thunderstone Lawrence Estate Wines Syrah Columbia Valley $45, 94 points, Editor’s Choice; Gård 2016 Vaucluse Lawrence Estate Columbia Valley $40, 92 points, Editor’s Choice). But it’s not just superb Rhone-style varieties coming out of this region. There are also high quality Cabernets and Chardonnay (Gård 2016 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $40, 91 points; Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley $28, 90 points, Editor’s Choice). If you’re not familiar with this winery and its wines, I strongly encourage you to check them out.
Looking for a high quality, extremely well-priced wine to get you through these tough times? Look no further than the Kerloo Cellars Majestic (Kerloo 2017 Majestic Columbia Valley $26, 91 points, Editor’s Choice). A blend of 63% Grenache, 27% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah, it offers loads of strawberry gummy, white pepper and dried herb aromas and flavors.
In other wines that provide superb value, let’s take a look at the latest from Luke (Luke 2017 Merlot Wahluke Slope $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Luke 2017 Red Blend Wahluke Slope $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Luke 2017 Syrah Wahluke Slope $25, 91 points; Luke 2018 Chardonnay Ancient Lakes $22, 90 points; Luke 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $25, 90 points). Luke is the brainchild of Thomas Voegle, who has decades of experience in the wine industry. Peter Devison (Devison Vintners) is the winemaker.
I’m hoping to devote a more substantial writeup to the wines coming out of Walla Walla Valley’s Prospice, but let me give a Cliff Notes version here. Prospice is one of the most exciting new wineries to come along in Washington in recent years, with a clear sense of vision and perspective on the wines that they make. Their current releases are some of the strongest I have tasted from a winery this last year Prospice 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $50, 93 points, Cellar Selection; Prospice 2017 Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills $50, 93 points, Cellar Selection; Prospice 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $50, 93 points, Cellar Selection).
Tertulia Cellars is one of the wineries on the cutting edge of what’s happening in the Walla Walla Valley. Their Elevation Vineyard is located in the North Fork region of the valley, with Christophe Baron’s Hors Categorie Vineyard currently their closest neighbor). Elevation ranges from 1,500-1,700 feet about sea level, high by Columbia Valley standards (NB: This vineyard is actually on the Oregon side of the valley), with most of the vines on a terraced slope. It is one of the most picturesque areas of the Columbia Valley and is also creating distinctive wines, that show a compelling sense of elegance and subtlety (Tertulia 2017 Elevation Estate Vineyard Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $45, 91 points; Tierra Labrada 2017 Elevation Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $95, 90 points; Tierra Labrada 2017 Elevation Vineyard Petit Verdot Walla Walla Valley $85, 90 points).
On the value side, check out the Disruption Wine Company Riesling (Disruption 2017 Riesling Ancient Lakes $13, 91 points, Best Buy). It’s full of honeysuckle, lemon, and lime aromas and flavors with a zing of acidity.
Also make sure to check out the wines from Kind Stranger, a side project from Andrew Latta (Latta Wines, Disruption). These include Kind Stranger 2018 Rosé Columbia Valley ($17, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Kind Stranger 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $17, 91 points; Kind Stranger 2017 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $17, 90 points, Editor’s Choice).
Without further ado.
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Avennia 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $95 94 points
This wine is all Cabernet, coming from a single block at this esteemed vineyard. The aromas are locked up on first pour, with notes of cocoa, dried leaf, dark roasted coffee bean and spice emerging over time. The palate is soft and flavorful, showing an exquisite sense of balance and detail to its dark chocolate and earth flavors. Tightly wound tannins give support. The acid and tannin balance is spot on. Hold until 2025 and drink through 2035. Cellar Selection
Avennia 2017 Lydian Merlot Columbia Valley $25 91 points
Lydian is a side project from the people at Avennia, blending declassified fruit with wine from other sources. High-toned aromas of dried and fresh herbs, ripe red raspberry, sandalwood and cherry are followed by a full-flavored palate. A lovely sense of acidity and tannin structure connects it all. Editor’s Choice
Avennia 2017 Lydian Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25 90 points
Brooding aromas of barrel spice, black currant, black licorice and dried herbs are followed by slightly jammy fruit flavors. Firm tannic structure backs it up. It needs some time to settle in. Decant if opening in the near term.
Beast 2017 Red Blend Columbia Valley $19 91 points
Fruit-forward aromas of blueberry, raspberry, orange peel and herbs with whiffs of mesquite are followed by a flavorful palate, packed full of fruit. Citrus notes and a warm finish cap it off. It’s a lot of wine for the money, with a long life ahead of it. What more could one want? Editor’s Choice
Beast 2017 Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $42 91 pointsPhinny Hill has quickly established itself as one of the top Cabernet Sauvignon sites in the state. Flower aromas are out front, along with notes of dark chocolate, anise and black cherry. Supple, flavorful cherry notes follow. Despite the ripeness of the fruit, there’s a lovely sense of acidity that backs it up. It’s delicious.
Boomtown 2018 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley $19 90 points
Effusive aromas of melon, Vaseline, kiwi and whole pineapple lead to full-bodied, well-balanced, broad-feeling flavors. It’s a cornucopia of fruit, while never getting overweighted. Editor’s Choice
Buty 2018 60% Sémillon 21% Sauvignon 19% Muscadelle Columbia Valley $25 93 points
Most Bordeaux-style white wines from Washington are Sauvignon Blanc heavy. This one flips the script, along with a heavy dose of Muscadelle that a few wineries in the state are working with. The aromas bring immediate appeal, with notes of whole orange, fig, herb and lees. A full-feeling, textured, flavorful palate follows, redolent with fig flavors. A lingering finish caps it off. It’s glorious with a long life ahead of it. Hard to keep your hands off now but will be best after 2023. Cellar Selection
Buty 2016 Rediviva of the Stones Rockgarden Estate Walla Walla Valley $60 92 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of black olive brine, stem, flower, orange peel, peat, firepit and smoked meat. A lithe, savory palate follows, with generous orange peel accents. A long finish caps it off. Gorgeous stuff.
Buty 2016 Columbia Rediviva Phinny Hill Vineyard Red Blend Columbia Valley $50 92 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 79% of this wine, with Syrah filling it out. The aromas intrigue, with notes of herbs, anise, earth and black cherry. Ripe, tightly wound black cherry flavors follow. Considerably riper in style than the norm for this producer, the palate packs a big punch while keeping it all in balance.
Buty 2018 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $42 92 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of chamomile, clarified butter, crayon and peach. The palate is deft in feel, full of stone fruit flavors that linger on the finish.
Buty 2017 Columbia Rediviva Phinny Hill Vineyard Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $50 90 points
Aromas of black cherry, bramble, crushed flowers, barrel spice and dried herbs provide appeal. The herb and cherry flavors are full in feel but never seem overweighted, with a silky softness to the tannins.
Buty 2017 74% Merlot 26% Cabernet Franc Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley $45 87 points
Freshly mortared green herb aromas dominate, followed by cassis, licorice and orange. Light fruit flavors follow, tapering toward the finish. The concentration seems quite light.
Cascadian Outfitters NV Estate Sparkling White Blend Columbia Valley $5 87 points
Apple, crayon, pear and lemon pith aromas are followed by lightly sweet, spritzy flavors. It’s an enjoyable quaffer, and the price is right.
Cascadian Outfitters NV Estate Sparkling Rosé Columbia Valley $5 87 points
Light cherry aromas are followed by spritzy, full-feeling, lightly sweet flavors. It has a nice sense of frivolity.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Limited Release Grüner Veltliner Columbia Valley $26 92 points
Lime, lentil, herb, citrus zest and jasmine aromas are out front. Bone-dry flavors with a big blast of acid follow. It needs some food alongside it to be fully appreciated, as Grüner should be. Pair it with shrimp ceviche. Editor’s Choice
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2017 Merlot Columbia Valley $15 88 points
Fragrant aromas of fresh herb, flower, raspberry, cocoa and wood spice are followed by orange peel, raspberry and spice flavors. A firm sense of tannic structure backs it up.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2017 Canoe Ridge Estate Chardonnay Horse Heaven Hills $20 88 points
The aromas offer notes of baked apple, crayon, vanilla, pineapple and spice. Compact fruit and barrel flavors follow. The style gets a bit in front of the fruit, but there’s still enjoyment to be had.
Columbia Crest 2016 Grand Estates Merlot Columbia Valley $12 86 points
Vanilla and nougat aromas are out front, along with notes of green wood, with the palate showing more of the same. The oak completely takes over, with the variety nearly impossible to find.
Disruption 2017 Riesling Ancient Lakes $13 91 points
Green apple skin, honeysuckle, ripe pear and jasmine aromas mesmerize. The just off-dry palate brings vibrant acidity to its lime and lemon flavors. It’s absolutely delicious and will shine at the dinner table. Best Buy
Dusted Valley 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $45 91 points
Aromas of cedar, tobacco, anise, fresh herbs, cherry and dried thyme are followed by plush tar and cherry flavors that bring a pleasing sense of intensity. Tasty stuff.
Dusted Valley 2017 Tall Tales Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45 91 points
The aromas announce themselves, with notes of Satsuma orange, prosciutto, black and green olives and firepit. Soft, almost creamy-feeling olive and moist earth flavors follow. There’s no mistaking where the wine comes from.
Dusted Valley 2016 Malbec Columbia Valley $45 90 points
Dried herb, coffee, graphite, tomato leaf, sweet barrel spice and cherry aromas lead to fruit and barrel flavors that display a sense of elegance, with the tannins giving a squeeze. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s tasty, though the variety seems hard to find. Give the tannins some time to settle in.
Dusted Valley 2016 BFM Dionysus Vineyard Columbia Valley $55 90 points
Merlot (82%) takes the lead on this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (14%) and pinches of Petit Verdot and Malbec. The aromas offer notes of green pepper, dried and fresh herbs, vanilla, tobacco and anise. Full, rich coffee and cherry flavors follow, packing a big punch. Might be a bit too green for some tastes. Give it some additional time in bottle to see it at its best.
Dusted Valley 2017 Wallywood Stone Tree Vineyard Wahluke Slope $45 88 points
This wine is 70% Mourvèdre, 25% Syrah and 5% Petite Syrah. Intriguing aromas of raspberry, black licorice, cola and hard candy are followed by full-bodied fruit flavors that lead to a (quite) warm, slightly smoky finish. The tannins give a squeeze.
Elephant Seven 2017 Yellow Bird Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $37 91 points
The aromas and flavors are effusive, with notes of flowers, coffee, orange peel, smoked ham, spice and plum. A lively sense of acidity bolsters it all. The tannins are a bit clenched at present, but it has great stuffing. Give it additional time in the bottle or a short decant to see it shine. Editor’s Choice
Fletcher Bay 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $53 88 points
Coming from Red Path Vineyard, the wine features aromas of dried cherry, cranberry, green pepper and baking spice, leading to full-bodied cherry and cranberry flavors. A firm coil of tannins provides support, along with a tart lick of acidity. Coffee and vanilla notes linger on the finish.
Fletcher Bay 2017 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $48 87 points
Unusual aromas of green herb, char, rosemary and coffee lead to full bodied, slightly port like fruit flavors. Black pepper accents run throughout. It’s an odd mix, seeming both overripe and underripe.
Gård 2016 Thunderstone Lawrence Estate Wines Syrah Columbia Valley $45 94 points
This vineyard is quickly establishing itself as one of the state’s top sites for Syrah, with this wine just a further example. The aromas pop, with notes of wet stone, smoked meat, firepit, fresh green herbs and Kalamata olive, very much reminiscent of the Rocks District. The palate is intensely flavorful, packed full of fruit and savory notes. The finish carries. It’s a wow wine. Editor’s Choice
Gård 2016 Vaucluse Lawrence Estate Columbia Valley $40 92 points
The aromas are compelling, with notes of sea salt, moist earth after a rain, prosciutto and smoke. The savory flavors coat the palate, lingering on the finish. Impressive stuff. Editor’s Choice
Gård 2016 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $40 91 points
Fermented in concrete and stainless steel before being aged 26 months in 63% new French oak, this wine has aromas of vanilla and Mounds bar out front, followed by notes of baking spice, dark-roasted coffee bean, cherry and herbs. Full-bodied fruit and barrel flavors follow, with vanilla notes lingering on the finish. Fruit and barrel play equal parts in the show.
Gård 2018 Grand Klasse Lawrence Estate Wines Rosé Columbia Valley $22 91 points
The aromas offer notes of strawberry, sour cherry and herbs. The palate is full bodied, redolent of kiwi and strawberry flavors leading to a finish that has plenty of hang time. It displays an impressive sense of depth and balance. For those looking for a fuller style rosé that is very much a serious wine, this one’s for you. Editor’s Choice
Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley $28 90 points
The aromas provide appeal, with notes of crayon, pumpkin spice and peach. The palate is well balanced, showing a sense of detail and deftness. Editor’s Choice
Hard Row To Hoe 2018 Au Naturel Pet-Nat Rosé Lake Chelan $38 90 points
This pretty, pink sparkler offers aromas of strawberry and herbs. Fresh and frothy with a bone-dry palate, it provides plenty of appeal—an impressive offering.
House of Bones 2017 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay Washington $45 94 points
Aromas of spice, Meyer lemon and mineral are out front. The palate is textured and full, with lemony acidity. Depth, layering, intensity and exquisite balance. It has it all and sings of this vineyard. It’s an accomplishment of a wine. Editor’s Choice
Joleté 2017 Wallula Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $45 87 points
The aromas fascinate, with notes of savory herbs, braised green pepper, roasted coffee bean, orange oil and flowers. The palate is light and textured, putting a premium on delicacy and restraint while painting around the edges. It’s a pretty green example of the variety, but it’s interesting.
Kerloo 2017 Stone Tree Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $NA 93 points
This is 100% varietal, fermented on skins for 49 days. The aromas are expressive, with notes of raspberry and macerated black cherry, bringing a sense of purity. The palate is rich and intense, packed to the brim with fruit flavors. Firm tannins surround it all. It’s an unabashedly hedonistic offering with more than enough structure to keep it all together. It’s more about the future than the present. Best after 2023. Cellar Selection
Kerloo 2017 Princess Syrah Walla Walla Valley $60 93 points
This is the winery’s first offering from the Rocks District, coming from Resurgent Vineyard and blended with 6% Viognier. Boom! The aromas explode from the glass, with notes of green and black olive tapenade, grilled asparagus, wet gravel, flowers, firepit and minerals. The 100% whole cluster shows itself. The palate is considerably more restrained than the aromas would suggest, but it is still plenty flavorful. A 45-second finish caps it off. It’s an intriguing expression of the region.
Kerloo 2017 Dionysus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $48 91 points
Coming from the White Bluffs area of the valley, the aromas are locked up, suggesting notes of cherry, tar, red plum, dried herbs and sweet herbs. The palate shows a sense of balance and intensity, with a lip-smacking quality to the firm, lightly grainy tannins. Herb and citrus notes linger on the finish. Give it some time in the bottle. Best after 2022.
Kerloo 2017 Majestic Columbia Valley $26 91 points
In this blend of 63% Grenache, 27% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah, the aromas aren’t quite ready to reveal their charms out of the gate, with notes of dried stick, stem, dried herbs, strawberry gummy and white pepper in the lead with raspberry following behind. The palate shows a lot of elegance, purity and detail—all hallmarks of this producer. Editor’s Choice
Kerloo 2017 Upland Vineyard Grenache Snipes Mountain $40 89 points
Subtle aromas of moist earth, brown and green stems, crushed flowers, strawberry gummy and white pepper lead to light, juicy, elegant red fruit flavors that carry on the finish. It doesn’t entirely stand up on its own but should show well at the dinner table.
Kerloo 2017 Stone Tree Malbec Wahluke Slope $48 88 points
Orange oil, raspberry and herb aromas are followed by lighter-styled orange peel flavors with a slightly tacky feel that softens over time. It’s an unusual offering of the variety.
Kerloo 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $32 88 points
A new offering from this winery, it’s a blend of Red Willow (69%) and Bacchus (31%) fruit. The aromas offer notes of raspberry, wood spice, cherry cocoa and herbs. Soft fruit flavors follow, trailing toward the finish. It paints around the edges, not seeming to have fully settled in.
Kind Stranger 2018 Rosé Columbia Valley $17 91 points
This blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault is a very pretty pale salmon color. The aromas pop with notes of sour cherry, watermelon and bubblegum. Bone-dry, crisp, light flavors follow with high-wire acidity. Pink grapefruit notes persist on the finish. Acid hounds, this one’s for you. It needs food alongside it to show its best. Editor’s Choice
Kind Stranger 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $17 91 points
All of the Cabernet for this wine comes from 1978 plantings at Wahluke Slope Vineyard. Aromas of tar, black currant and dried herbs lead to lithe fruit flavors supported by a fine sense of acidity and tannic structure. Plum flavors linger on the finish. A lovely sense of balance connects it all.
Kind Stranger 2018 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $17 90 points
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Evergreen Vineyard in the Ancient Lakes. Aromas of corn on the cob and candlewax are followed by pear and poached apple flavors. The creamy texture is counterweighted by this vineyard’s hallmark acidity. Melted butter notes linger on the finish. It’s a more serious bottle than typically found at this price. Editor’s Choice
Latta 2016 Dana Dibble Freewater Rocks Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45 92 points
This Rocks District wine offers outrageous notes of black and green olives, soot, flower, wet rock, orange peel and charcuterie plate—unmistakably from the appellation. The palate is lighter than the aromas might suggest but still richly flavorful, with a medicinal streak and a finish that won’t quit.
Latta 2016 Mourvèdre Snipes Mountain $45 92 points
The aromas are vibrant, with notes of black fruit, anise, green herb, flower and plum, showing a piercing sense of purity. Big, rich, ripe, hedonistic flavors follow. A lovely sense of texture ups the interest, and a lengthy finish caps it off. Delicious stuff.
Latta 2016 Latta Latta Snipes Mountain $35 92 points
Grenache makes up 60% of this wine, with the rest Syrah (26%) and Mourvèdre (14%). The aromas pop, with bright, fruit-forward notes of raspberry and strawberry candy, herbs and spices. The palate is richly flavorful, textured with a lingering finish. It brings a compelling sense of purity—a whole lot of wine for the money. Editor’s Choice
Latta 2016 Lawrence Vineyard Roussanne Columbia Valley $30 92 points
Coming from a vineyard on the Royal Slope, this wine has aromas that draw you into the glass with notes of beeswax, pineapple, herb, spice, seashell and melon. The palate is rich and textured, with abundant stone fruit flavors. It has a sense of deftness, finesse and complexity. A long, fruit-filled finish caps it off. Glorious stuff with a long life in front of it. Best from 2023 to 2026. Cellar Selection
Latta 2016 Upland Grenache Snipes Mountain $45 91 points
Very pretty though restrained aromas of cherry candy, dried herbs and strawberry lead to a palate that packs a big punch of fruit flavor. The intensity is impressive.
Latta 2016 Freewater Rocks Grenache Walla Walla Valley $45 91 points
This is a new offering from the winery, coming out of the Rocks District. The aromas are brooding, with notes of herbs, wild strawberry, white pepper and minerals, with whiffs of smoked meat. The palate is elegant but flavorful, lingering on the finish.
Latta 2016 Weinbau Vineyard Malbec Columbia Valley $45 90 points
The aromas of tar, dark plum and aniseed intrigue. A full-flavored palate with soft tannins follow.
Liberty Lake 2017 Bud Burst Reserve Red Mountain $38 88 points
This blend is 28% Cabernet Franc, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 14% Carménère, 7% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. Raspberry, green pepper, sandalwood, green herb and cherry aromas are out front. Full-bodied fruit and barrel flavors follow. The tannins bring some astringency. It’s overtly green.
Liberty Lake 2017 Scooteney Flats Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $35 88 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of mocha, coffee, black tea, dried herbs and raspberry. Generous black cherry flavors follow, with a lightly chalky feel. Coffee notes linger on the finish, which brings a little heat.
Liberty Lake 2017 Heart of the Hill Vineyard Carménère Red Mountain $40 87 points
The first offering of this variety from the winery, it shows the variety’s green side, with aromas of jalapeño and green pepper accented by coffee and spice. The palate is light and lean, showing more of the same along with plentiful barrel accents. There are some fun things happening, but it’s pretty green.
Liberty Lake 2017 Scooteney Flats Vineyard Cabernet Franc Red Mountain $38 87 points
Green tea, green herb and smoke aromas are followed by soft, chocolaty flavors with quite firm tannins backing them up. It paints around the edges.
Liberty Lake 2017 Heritage Reserve Red Blend Red Mountain $40 87 points
This wine is half Syrah and half Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in new American oak. High-toned aromas of cranberry, dried cherry, anise and wood spice are followed by full-bodied flavors that show more of the same. The tannins bring a slightly pasty, gritty feel. Coffee notes linger on the finish. Fruit and barrel tussle at times.
Liberty Lake 2017 Reserve Syrah Red Mountain $41 87 points
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Ranch at the End of the Road Vineyard, aged 18 months in new American oak. Aromas of coffee, green wood, herb, medicine and anise are followed by rich, ripe fruit flavors. Tacky feeling tannins back it up. Some astringency on the palate distracts. It’s an unusual offering.
Liberty Lake 2018 Gewürztraminer Red Mountain $18 86 points
This comes from 1978 plantings and was made as an orange wine; its aromas offer notes of whole lychee and ginger. Dry, broad, slightly boozy-seeming flavors follow. It’s interesting but not entirely successful.
Liberty Lake 2017 Scooteney Flats Vineyard Merlot Red Mountain $30 86 points
Aromas of green herbs, flowers and anise are followed by tightly wound bittersweet chocolate flavors. The tannins bring a sense of astringency and bitterness, causing distraction. It’s a quite green offering of the variety.
Liberty Lake 2017 Scooteney Flats Vineyard Petit Verdot Red Mountain $31 85 points
Aromas of green herbs, smoked ham, vanilla and barrel spice are out front. A full-bodied palate follows, with smoky and medicinal flavors and a tacky feel to the firm tannins.
Lu & Oly 2018 We Sat by the Ocean White Blend Yakima Valley $NA 90 points
This is a side project from the folks at Mark Ryan. A blend of Viognier (60%) and Chardonnay (40%), with light aromas of pear, apple and spice, followed by full-bodied peach and tropical fruit flavors. There’s a whole lot to like.
Luke 2017 Merlot Wahluke Slope $25 91 points
Intoxicating aromas of espresso, high-cacao chocolate, green pepper, barrel spice, raspberry and herbs lead to focused, fresh fruit flavors that coat the palate. There’s a whole lot of acidity and firm tannin structure surrounding them, needing some time to settle in. It’s a serious wine to find at this price. Give it a brief decant. Editor’s Choice
Luke 2017 Red Blend Wahluke Slope $25 91 points
This is a new offering from the winery. With this blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, the aromas intrigue, with notes of graphite, cherry, raspberry, flower and spice. The palate brings a sense of sophistication and intensity. Firm tannins back it up. It’s a lot of wine for the money. Editor’s Choice
Luke 2017 Syrah Wahluke Slope $25 91 points
Appealing aromas of coffee, assorted dried herbs and whiffs of smoked meat are followed by a soft, sultry palate, full of plum flavors that glide on the finish. The tannins show a little tackiness at present, revealing the wine’s youth. Give it a short decant to see it deliver.
Luke 2018 Chardonnay Ancient Lakes $NA 90 points
This is a new offering from the winery, with the fruit coming from Evergreen Vineyard. Light aromas of toast, chalk and mineral are followed by sleek apple and pear flavors. Kiwi notes linger on the finish. There’s a lovely sense of balance throughout.
Luke 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $25 90 points
The aromas offer notes of espresso, vanilla, spice and cherry. The palate brings cherry and raspberry flavors. Grainy, slightly astringent tannins back it up. It’s a bit clenched at present and will only improve with some time in bottle. Give it a long decant if drinking in the near term.
Maison Bleue 2017 Frontière Funk Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75 92 points
This Rocks District vineyard often shows a funky side (no pun intended) as does most of the appellation. Here, the winery shows its prettier, more elegant aspects. It offers tones of blueberry, strawberry, orange peel, smoked ham and flowers, showing a piercing sense of purity. The palate is seamless and lingering. It’s a unique and delicious offering from this appellation. Editor’s Choice
Maison Bleue 2017 Voyageur Syrah Walla Walla Valley $50 92 points
Compelling, achingly pure aromas of blueberry, boysenberry, flower and tangerine are followed by elegant, soft-feeling flavors that bring a dazzling sense of purity. It’s a unique, knee-buckling expression. Editor’s Choice
Maison Bleue 2017 Bourgeois Grenache Walla Walla Valley $50 90 points
Fruity aromas of whole berries, gummy candies and whole orange are followed by elegant fruit flavors. It’s a light, very pretty expression of the variety and area with a long life ahead of it.
Mark Ryan 2017 Monkey Wrench Columbia Valley $32 92 points
This is a new offering from the winery. In this blend of 47% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc and 9% Petit Verdot, the aromas are brooding out of the gate, with notes of barrel spice, raspberry, coffee, dried herbs and dark chocolate emerging over time. The palate shows a sense of deftness, sophistication and detail, with a lightly creamy feel. The balance is exquisite. Dee-licious—and a big-time value to boot. Some time in the cellar will serve it well. Editor’s Choice
Prospice 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $50 93 points
This is one of the inaugural releases from the winery, with most of the fruit coming from Golden Ridge Vineyard. The aromas are reserved, with notes of dark chocolate, red fruit, earth and spice, not yet fully ready to reveal their charms. The palate on the other hand has it all—texture, layering, structure, sophistication and detail. An extended finish caps it off. It’s a knee-buckler. Give it some additional time in the bottle. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection
Prospice 2017 Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills $50 93 points
We know what a special vineyard this is for Cabernet Sauvignon, but this wine shows that the grape’s progeny can excel there, too. Its 100% varietal, alluring aromas of raspberry, earth, herbs and flowers focus the attention. The palate is dense and textured, full of dark-fruit flavors with a firm sense of tannic structure. The balance is impressive. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection
Prospice 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $50 93 pointsThis is one of the first red releases from the winery, and it’s a show-stopper. Seeing just 29% new oak, it’s a blend of fruit from Phinny Hill, Golden Ridge, Dionysus, Resurgent, Bacchus and Quintessence vineyards. The aromas are reserved on first pour, with notes of dark chocolate, cherry, dried herbs, anise and spice. The palate is knee-buckling, so beautifully balanced, showing a sense of layering and detail. It’s a proclamation for this winery. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection
Pursued by Bear 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $70 91 points
Enchanting aromas of green coffee bean, black cherry, graphite, black licorice and dried flowers are followed by well-balanced, palate-coating dark-fruit and coffee flavors. The tannins are combed to a fine sheen.
Rôtie Cellars 2017 Northern Blend Syrah Walla Walla Valley $48 94 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s estate vineyard in the Rocks District and includes 5% Viognier. The aromas start off brooding, opening to reveal notes of firepit, charcuterie plate, blueberry, freshly peeled tangerine and black pepper. Sweet, full-bodied, palate-coating flavors follow, while never getting overweighted. It’s downright delicious, with impeccable balance and length. Editor’s Choice
Rôtie Cellars 2018 Southern Walla Walla Valley $32 92 points
This wine is a blend of 68% Viognier, 20% Roussanne and 12% Marsanne. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of mineral, whole peach, melon and citrus. A full-bodied flavorful palate, chock-full of ripe peach and pear notes, follows, accented by a lovely sense of acidity. There’s a bright future for Walla Walla whites, and this is one of the wineries leading the way. Best from 2021 until 2025. Cellar Selection
Rôtie Cellars 2017 Southern Blend Washington $48 92 points
Grenache makes up 70% of this wine, with the rest Mourvèdre (20%) and Syrah (10%). The aromas are effusive with notes of olive brine, raspberry compote, blueberry, moist earth and whole tangerine. A full-bodied, outrageously flavorful palate follows, laden with fruit and savory flavors. Orange notes linger on the finish. Editor’s Choice
Seven Falls 2017 Chardonnay Wahluke Slope $NA 89 points
The aromas of pear tart, baking spice and mineral bring appeal. Rounded, full flavors follow. It shows a lovely sense of balance—a high quality, well-priced offering of the variety.
Seven Falls 2016 Rapids Red Blend Wahluke Slope $NA 87 points
Aromas of raspberry compote, coffee and tire rubber lead to somewhat lighter-seeming cherry and café au lait flavors. It’s a pleasant if somewhat innocuous offering.
Seven Falls 2015 Merlot Wahluke Slope $NA 87 pointsVanilla aromas are at the fore, along with notes of nougat, sweet spice and cherry. Rich, barrel-forward flavors follow, with the tannins bringing some astringency. The oak steals the show, but there’s still enjoyment to be had.
Sleight of Hand 2017 The Sorceress Reserve Grenache Yakima Valley $45 92 points
Pale in color, the wine features aromas that pull you into the glass, with notes of whole raspberry, white pepper, stem, green olive, smoke, peat and dried herbs. The smoked meat, raspberry and savory flavors are light and transparent in style, gliding across the palate. It’s a very pretty example of the variety, focusing on elegance but with a nice yum factor behind it. White pepper notes linger on the finish. Give it some additional time in the bottle, or decant.
Sleight of Hand 2018 The Magician Evergreen Vineyard Riesling Columbia Valley $18 91 points
The aromas pop, with notes of flower, cut green apple, lime leaf, botrytis and muscat gummy. Just a hair off-dry lemon Nestea iced tea follow. A lemony, lip-smacking finish tops it off. Tasty stuff. Editor’s Choice
Sleight of Hand 2017 The Enchantress Old Vine French Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley $28 91 points
As always, French Creek Vineyard and its 40-plus-year-old vines provide the fruit for this wine. Lees aromas are at the fore, along with notes of spice, Cheddar, baked apple and white peach. Full-bodied, textured flavors follow, with lively acidity backing them up. Apple notes linger on the finish. It’s a beautiful offering that will age well in the cellar. Editor’s Choice
Sleight of Hand 2016 The Archimage Reserve Columbia Valley $52 90 points
Cabernet Franc makes up half of this wine, with the balance 47% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Black tea, green herb, cherry and green pepper aromas are followed by somewhat lighter-styled fruit and barrel flavors. Firm tannic structure backs it up. The concentration wavers at times, but what’s there is pretty.
Sleight of Hand 2017 Psychedelic Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $60 90 points
Blue fruit aromas are out front, along with notes of plum, cherry gummy, exotic spice and olive. The palate is reserved in style, but brings a sense of texture. It’s an unusual offering from this appellation.
Sleight of Hand 2017 The Conjurer Columbia Valley $28 90 points
This wine is a blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Cabernet Franc and 21% Merlot. The aromas are reserved on first pour, with notes of gunsmoke, green pepper, pencil lead, fresh flower and cherry, blossoming with some time open. Pillowy-feeling cherry and dark chocolate flavors follow, with green herb notes laced throughout. It’s a pretty wine.
Sleight of Hand 2016 The Illusionist Reserve Columbia Valley $52 90 points
Aromas of green pepper, baking spice, graphite, roasted coffee bean and tobacco are out front. Somewhat compact plum and spice flavors follow, broadening over time. The tannins give a firm handshake, needing some additional time to loosen their grip.
Sleight of Hand 2017 Levitation Reserve Syrah Columbia Valley $45 90 points
This wine is a blend of fruit from Lewis (68%) and Les Collines (32%) vineyards. Aged in concrete and large-format barrels, the wine has vibrant aromas of dark roasted coffee, fresh herbs, plum, violet, smoke and soot, leading to plentiful, full-bodied fruit and savory flavors. It has a lip-smacking quality, needing some time in the cellar to stretch its legs.
Sleight of Hand 2017 The Spellbinder Red Blend Columbia Valley $20 88 points
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah make up this wine. Aromas of mortared fresh herbs, green pepper and cherry lead to lightly concentrated plum and dark-fruit flavors that are a bit clenched at present. There’s a lot of enjoyment to be had.
Structure 2017 Bauhaus Syrah Yakima Valley $25 90 points
The aromas aren’t ready to reveal their charms initially, with light notes of orange peel, green olive, stem and crushed rock revealing themselves over time. Full bodied, pillowy olive and cherry flavors follow. If the aromas open it could move up, but it’s plenty delicious as is.
Structure 2017 Craftsman Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $28 90 points
The aromas offer notes of green flower, green pepper, barrel spice, anise and cherry. There’s a lovely sense of freshness and texture to the palate. Not meant to be enjoyed on its own, it will shine at the dinner table.
Structure 2017 Spire Merlot Yakima Valley $25 89 points
The aromas are intriguing, with notes of green tea, freshly peeled Satsuma orange and raspberry. The flavors are light and lovely, bringing a sense of texture that ups the interest. It lingers on the finish. It doesn’t scream Merlot but is enjoyable all the same.
Structure 2017 Foundation Mourvèdre Snipes Mountain $35 88 points
Subdued, usual aromas of cranberry, crushed flowers, Satsuma orange oil, white pepper, wet rock, black licorice and raspberry are followed by tart, lighter-styled fruit flavors with a lightly smoky finish. It’s part interesting, part successful. Put it on the dinner table alongside a grilled lamb chop with a cherry compote to see it at its best.
Structure 2018 Oculus Viognier Horse Heaven Hills $25 88 points
The aromas are vibrant, redolent with notes of pear, honeysuckle and melon. The flavors can’t quite deliver on all of this promise, sleek and light, with Mandarin orange notes on the warm finish.
Structure 2017 Piloti Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $28 86 points
Aromas of orange oil, flowers and black licorice lead to quite smoky fruit flavors that show some astringency.
Tamarack Cellars 2017 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $30 91 points
Enchanting aromas of dried leaf, cherry, mocha, coffee and herbs dance in the glass. The palate brings brawny tannins and fresh dark-cherry flavors. This one would benefit from some time in the cellar. Best after 2022.
Tamarack Cellars 2016 Firehouse Red Blend Columbia Valley $20 88 points
Merlot (31%), Syrah (27%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (16%) and Cabernet Franc (11%) comprise the heart of this wine, with Mourvèdre, Grenache, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Counoise making up the difference. Roasted coffee bean, nori and tire rubber aromas are out front, followed by notes of dark chocolate and spice. The palate paints around the edges.
Tertulia 2017 Ryan’s Reserve Estate Walla Walla Valley $45 91 points
Cabernet Sauvignon comprises half of this wine, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc each making up 21% and the rest Malbec. The aromas are fragrant, with notes of green pepper, flower, coffee, cedar, black cherry, cocoa, cranberry and black licorice. The palate is tightly wound, packed full of acidity and tannins supporting lighter-styled fruit flavors.
Tertulia 2017 Elevation Estate Vineyard Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $45 91 points
Coming from a vineyard in the North Fork region of the valley that ranges from 1,500 to 1,700 feet in elevation, this 100% varietal wine offers aromas of herbs, vanilla, cherry, baker’s chocolate and anise. Soft green pepper, cranberry and raspberry flavors follow, showing a sense of elegance and length. The oak (25% new French) is dialed back. It’s a very pretty, distinctive offering of the variety.
Tertulia 2016 Phinny Hill Vineyard Carménère Horse Heaven Hills $48 88 points
Braised green pepper aromas are out front. Coffee, Satsuma orange and cherry notes follow. Plentiful green pepper notes make up the soft, flavorful palate. It’s an unabashedly green offering of the variety.
Tierra Labrada 2017 Elevation Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $95 90 points
Grown in fractured basalt and silt soils at an elevation of 1,500 to 1,700 feet and aged in 100% new French oak. The aromas are brooding, with notes of vanilla, cassis, tobacco, whole Satsuma orange, cranberry and dried herbs. Fruit and barrel play off each other on the elegant but flavorful palate, backed by lightly grainy tannins. Coffee notes linger on the finish.
Tierra Labrada 2017 Elevation Vineyard Petit Verdot Walla Walla Valley $85 90 points
Aromas of raspberry, cocoa, herbs, cola, citrus and minerals lead to a soft, flavorful palate that brings a sense of volume. The tannins give it a lightly grainy feel. Allow it some time to stretch its legs.
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