2021 was a generous vintage for Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, and the Ken Wright ‘21s are thrilling, with appealing fruit purity, intensity, and balance. They also show impressive staying power, which bodes well for their longevity. Fans of this winery, or those looking for an introduction to exceptional Willamette Valley Pinot, take note.
Mongata is a new Walla Walla Valley winery, focusing on fruit from its estate site, Resurgent Vineyard. Resurgent is located near the South Fork of the Walla Walla River, and the site has cobblestone soils that produce unique wines. (See more examples from Prospice.) Mongata’s inaugural releases make them a winery to watch.
Valo and Massalto are two wineries from Matías Kúsulas, who is also head viticulturalist at Lawrence Vineyards. Valo is the more traditional of the two, with most of the fruit coming from esteemed Conner Lee Vineyard. Massalto, meanwhile, is a playground, offering room for experimentation and exploration. The twin wineries have a tasting room in Vancouver, Washington. Kúsulas was also named the winemaker for Desert Wind and Gård in 2021.
Located in the Columbia Gorge, Le Doubblé Troubblé is making well-priced, vivid wines from Washington and Oregon. The winery has a tasting room in White Salmon.
Look for upcoming feature articles on several of these wineries.
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At Northwest Wine Report, all scores come from blind tastings in varietal/style sets. Read more about this site’s process for rating and reviewing wines. Read about the Northwest Wine Report rating system and special designations. Read about how to interpret scores. Read definitions of closure type listings.
BORDEAUX-STYLE BLENDS
Valo Intemporal Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2019 $70
92 points, Cellar Stocker
Cabernet Sauvignon comprises half of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Franc (30%) and Merlot. All coming from a selection of the best barrels, aromas of black currant, dark cherry, green herb, cocoa, and powdered cinnamon lead to ripe, plush fruit flavors. It shows impressive focus and length. Plentiful tannins back it all up. Best from 2028 to 2035. 14.5% alcohol. 300 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Valo Right Bank Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2019 $50
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Cabernet Franc and Merlot each make up half of this wine, which was aged in neutral oak, including 500L puncheons. Aromas of fresh green herb, green pepper, flower, and plum lead to palate-coating, pillowy-soft flavors. The feel provides as much appeal as the flavors. 14.1% alcohol. 300 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Sightglass Merlot/Malbec Royal Slope 2020 $39
90 points
Merlot makes up three quarters of this offering, with the rest Malbec. Aged in French oak (50% new), the aromas bring notes of coffee, chocolate, dark cherry, herb, and plum. Plush, plump fruit flavors follow. Chocolate notes linger on the finish. It brings the best of both varieties, providing full-on hedonism and balance too. 14.6% alcohol. 100 cases produced.
Valo Atemporal Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2020 $32
90 points
This is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 20% Syrah. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of plum, spice, anise, ember, and dried herb. Dark fruit and chocolate flavors follow and, beyond that, a lightly smoky finish. 13.8% alcohol. 600 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Valo Reserve Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2019 $70
93 points, Critic’s Choice
This is 100% varietal, with fruit coming from 1987 plantings. Aromas of dark cherry, dried herb, and cocoa lead to intense, palate-shaking black fruit flavors that coast for a long finish. The tannins are polished but need time to fully resolve. Give it time in bottle or decant. 14.5% alcohol. 250 cases produced.
Sightglass Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $45
92 points, Critic’s Choice
This is Cabernet Sauvignon from Stillwater Creek, blended with 10% Cabernet Franc from Conner Lee Vineyard. Aged in 50% new French oak, the aromas offer notes of black currant and huckleberry along with fresh flower. Supple purple and black fruit flavors follow, with oak accents providing grace notes. A lingering finish caps it off. Give it a short decant. 14.6% alcohol. 125 cases produced.
Walla Walla Vintners Cut Bank Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2019 $85
RED WINES
BORDEAUX-STYLE BLENDS
Valo Intemporal Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2019 $70
92 points, Cellar Stocker
Cabernet Sauvignon comprises half of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Franc (30%) and Merlot. All coming from a selection of the best barrels, aromas of black currant, dark cherry, green herb, cocoa, and powdered cinnamon lead to ripe, plush fruit flavors. It shows impressive focus and length. Plentiful tannins back it all up. Best from 2028 to 2035. 14.5% alcohol. 300 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Valo Right Bank Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2019 $50
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Cabernet Franc and Merlot each make up half of this wine, which was aged in neutral oak, including 500L puncheons. Aromas of fresh green herb, green pepper, flower, and plum lead to palate-coating, pillowy-soft flavors. The feel provides as much appeal as the flavors. 14.1% alcohol. 300 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Sightglass Merlot/Malbec Royal Slope 2020 $39
90 points
Merlot makes up three quarters of this offering, with the rest Malbec. Aged in French oak (50% new), the aromas bring notes of coffee, chocolate, dark cherry, herb, and plum. Plush, plump fruit flavors follow. Chocolate notes linger on the finish. It brings the best of both varieties, providing full-on hedonism and balance too. 14.6% alcohol. 100 cases produced.
Valo Atemporal Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2020 $32
90 points
This is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 20% Syrah. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of plum, spice, anise, ember, and dried herb. Dark fruit and chocolate flavors follow and, beyond that, a lightly smoky finish. 13.8% alcohol. 600 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Valo Reserve Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2019 $70
93 points, Critic’s Choice
This is 100% varietal, with fruit coming from 1987 plantings. Aromas of dark cherry, dried herb, and cocoa lead to intense, palate-shaking black fruit flavors that coast for a long finish. The tannins are polished but need time to fully resolve. Give it time in bottle or decant. 14.5% alcohol. 250 cases produced.
Sightglass Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2020 $45
92 points, Critic’s Choice
This is Cabernet Sauvignon from Stillwater Creek, blended with 10% Cabernet Franc from Conner Lee Vineyard. Aged in 50% new French oak, the aromas offer notes of black currant and huckleberry along with fresh flower. Supple purple and black fruit flavors follow, with oak accents providing grace notes. A lingering finish caps it off. Give it a short decant. 14.6% alcohol. 125 cases produced.
Walla Walla Vintners Cut Bank Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2019 $85
92 points, Cellar Stocker
Fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s estate site located 1,467 feet above sea level, quite high by the valley’s current standards. Aged 28 months in French oak (90% new initially, then down to 50% for the last 10 months), the aromas mix fruit and barrel, with notes of baking spice and vanilla extract along with cherry and anise. A full-bodied palate follows, creamy in feel, with the oak and fruit paying off each other in equal parts. The wood is still prominent right now. Give the wine significant time for it to better integrate. Enjoy after 2028. 14.9% alcohol. 228 cases produced.
Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2020 $40
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Walla Walla Vintners has always made its mark by providing high quality and great value. We see both here. It’s a pan-valley offering, with fruit sources that include Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, McLellan, and Les Collines vineyards. Aged in 50% new French oak, the aromas are subdued, with notes of cinnamon, blackberry, black currant, vanilla, barrel spice, and ember, with black licorice stick in the background. Ripe, polished flavors follow, showing some warmth on the finish. Fruit and barrel both play central parts in the show. 14.9% alcohol. 1,000 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Valo Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2019 $32
90 points
This is 100% varietal, all coming from old vines at this vineyard. It’s expressive and aromatically interesting, with notes of cedar, dried and fresh pipe tobacco, raspberry, and bittersweet chocolate. A plump, flavorful, raspberry-filled palate follows, gliding on the finish. 14.5% alcohol. 250 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Mongata Resurgent Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2020 $54
89 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Block C and G at this vineyard. The aromas bring notes of sweet spices, powdered cinnamon, dark fruit, and a touch of wood smoke. Full-bodied flavors follow, showing a kiss of smoke on the finish. There are a lot of good pieces, but the oak gets a bit too far in front of the fruit, preventing them from fully becoming a whole. 14.5% alcohol. 190 cases produced.
Rooted Souls Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2019 $38
86 points
The aromas show reduction out of the gate, with notes of tire rubber that make the fruit hard to tease out. Light, linear black currant and cherry flavors follow. 14.2% alcohol. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork. 72 cases produced.
MERLOT
Valo Conner Lee Vineyard Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley 2019 $70
93 points, Cellar Stocker
Fruit for this wine was barrel fermented, coming from vines planted in 1992. The aromas boast notes of graphite, cherry, whole cranberry, herb, and kisses of barrel spice. Dark fruit flavors follow, showing intensity, layering, sophistication, and impressive acid and tannin structure. The finish sails into the distance. It’s a compelling offering of the variety. Best after 2028. 14.1% alcohol. 250 cases produced.
Le Doubblé Troubblé Dry Hollow Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley Oregon 2021 $30
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Aged 10 months in neutral oak and coming from a hot vintage, the aromas are generous, with notes of raspberry compote and jam along with red plum and herb. Plush, palate-coating flavors follow. Like the vintage it comes from, it’s a riper style, with an emphasis on purity and lush fruit. It brings both in abundance. 14.83% alcohol. 95 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Valo Conner Lee Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley 2019 $32
90 points
100% varietal, the aromas boast notes of coffee, green pepper, herb, cedar, graphite, and cherry. Full bodied flavors follow, backed by quite tart acidity and firm tannins. It shows some greenness for the variety on an otherwise lovely wine. 14.5% alcohol. 250 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
OTHER BORDEAUX VARIETIES
Valo Conner Lee Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2019 $70
93 points
This is 100% varietal, with all of the fruit coming from old vines. Fruit and barrel are both center stage, with aromas of pencil shavings, green pepper, baking spice, and dark fruit. Ripe, focused, dark fruit flavors follow, backed by pillowy-soft tannins. Barrel notes intertwine on the coffee-filled finish. The intensity is impressive. Give it time in bottle or decant. 14.1% alcohol. 250 cases produced.
Massalto Artisan Malbec Royal Slope 2019 $60
93 points, Critic’s Choice
This is all Malbec from Scarline and Stoneridge vineyards. Bright aromas of plum, orange rind, grape jelly, and flower lead to plump, full-feeling red and purple fruit flavors that show pleasing layering and depth. A long, tart finish caps it off. It’s an attention-getter, with purity and impeccable balance. Malbec fans, take note. 14.1% alcohol. 120 cases produced.
SYRAH, GRENACHE, MOURVÈDRE AND RHÔNE-STLYE BLENDS
Mongata Resurgent Vineyard Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2020 $48
92 points, Critic’s Choice
This is the inaugural release of this wine. Fruit comes from Block 5 of this vineyard, which is located by the South Fork of the Walla Walla River. The aromas bring notes of plum sauce, spice, olive, violet, charcoal briquette, and violet. Polished, broad, layered, full-bodied flavors follow, showing verticality. A long finish caps it off. It’s quite a debut. 14.9% alcohol. 89 cases produced.
Fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s estate site located 1,467 feet above sea level, quite high by the valley’s current standards. Aged 28 months in French oak (90% new initially, then down to 50% for the last 10 months), the aromas mix fruit and barrel, with notes of baking spice and vanilla extract along with cherry and anise. A full-bodied palate follows, creamy in feel, with the oak and fruit paying off each other in equal parts. The wood is still prominent right now. Give the wine significant time for it to better integrate. Enjoy after 2028. 14.9% alcohol. 228 cases produced.
Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2020 $40
91 points, Critic’s Choice
Walla Walla Vintners has always made its mark by providing high quality and great value. We see both here. It’s a pan-valley offering, with fruit sources that include Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, McLellan, and Les Collines vineyards. Aged in 50% new French oak, the aromas are subdued, with notes of cinnamon, blackberry, black currant, vanilla, barrel spice, and ember, with black licorice stick in the background. Ripe, polished flavors follow, showing some warmth on the finish. Fruit and barrel both play central parts in the show. 14.9% alcohol. 1,000 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Valo Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2019 $32
90 points
This is 100% varietal, all coming from old vines at this vineyard. It’s expressive and aromatically interesting, with notes of cedar, dried and fresh pipe tobacco, raspberry, and bittersweet chocolate. A plump, flavorful, raspberry-filled palate follows, gliding on the finish. 14.5% alcohol. 250 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Mongata Resurgent Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2020 $54
89 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Block C and G at this vineyard. The aromas bring notes of sweet spices, powdered cinnamon, dark fruit, and a touch of wood smoke. Full-bodied flavors follow, showing a kiss of smoke on the finish. There are a lot of good pieces, but the oak gets a bit too far in front of the fruit, preventing them from fully becoming a whole. 14.5% alcohol. 190 cases produced.
Rooted Souls Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2019 $38
86 points
The aromas show reduction out of the gate, with notes of tire rubber that make the fruit hard to tease out. Light, linear black currant and cherry flavors follow. 14.2% alcohol. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork. 72 cases produced.
MERLOT
Valo Conner Lee Vineyard Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley 2019 $70
93 points, Cellar Stocker
Fruit for this wine was barrel fermented, coming from vines planted in 1992. The aromas boast notes of graphite, cherry, whole cranberry, herb, and kisses of barrel spice. Dark fruit flavors follow, showing intensity, layering, sophistication, and impressive acid and tannin structure. The finish sails into the distance. It’s a compelling offering of the variety. Best after 2028. 14.1% alcohol. 250 cases produced.
Le Doubblé Troubblé Dry Hollow Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley Oregon 2021 $30
92 points, Critic’s Choice
Aged 10 months in neutral oak and coming from a hot vintage, the aromas are generous, with notes of raspberry compote and jam along with red plum and herb. Plush, palate-coating flavors follow. Like the vintage it comes from, it’s a riper style, with an emphasis on purity and lush fruit. It brings both in abundance. 14.83% alcohol. 95 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Valo Conner Lee Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley 2019 $32
90 points
100% varietal, the aromas boast notes of coffee, green pepper, herb, cedar, graphite, and cherry. Full bodied flavors follow, backed by quite tart acidity and firm tannins. It shows some greenness for the variety on an otherwise lovely wine. 14.5% alcohol. 250 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
OTHER BORDEAUX VARIETIES
Valo Conner Lee Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2019 $70
93 points
This is 100% varietal, with all of the fruit coming from old vines. Fruit and barrel are both center stage, with aromas of pencil shavings, green pepper, baking spice, and dark fruit. Ripe, focused, dark fruit flavors follow, backed by pillowy-soft tannins. Barrel notes intertwine on the coffee-filled finish. The intensity is impressive. Give it time in bottle or decant. 14.1% alcohol. 250 cases produced.
Massalto Artisan Malbec Royal Slope 2019 $60
93 points, Critic’s Choice
This is all Malbec from Scarline and Stoneridge vineyards. Bright aromas of plum, orange rind, grape jelly, and flower lead to plump, full-feeling red and purple fruit flavors that show pleasing layering and depth. A long, tart finish caps it off. It’s an attention-getter, with purity and impeccable balance. Malbec fans, take note. 14.1% alcohol. 120 cases produced.
SYRAH, GRENACHE, MOURVÈDRE AND RHÔNE-STLYE BLENDS
Mongata Resurgent Vineyard Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2020 $48
92 points, Critic’s Choice
This is the inaugural release of this wine. Fruit comes from Block 5 of this vineyard, which is located by the South Fork of the Walla Walla River. The aromas bring notes of plum sauce, spice, olive, violet, charcoal briquette, and violet. Polished, broad, layered, full-bodied flavors follow, showing verticality. A long finish caps it off. It’s quite a debut. 14.9% alcohol. 89 cases produced.
Massalto Interstellar Mourvèdre Royal Slope 2019 $60
91 points
Fruit here hails from Thunderstone Vineyard and was barrel fermented. The aromas show notes of fresh raspberry, peppery spice, citrus, flower, satsuma peel, and dried stick, showing pleasing complexities. Medium-bodied, center-focused flavors follow, with satsuma notes throughout. The purity is dazzling. Give it a quick decant to lengthen it out. 13.4% alcohol. 150 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Walla Walla Vintners Cut Bank Estate Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2020 $60
91 points
Cut Bank Estate Vineyard surrounds the winery, located at 1,467 feet above sea level in the Upper Mill Creek area of the valley. Aromas of dark fruit, plum sauce, coffee, and barrel spice lead to full-bodied, creamy-feeling flavors. It’s a full-throttle offering, with plenty of structure to hold it together. 14.9% alcohol. 300 cases produced.
PINOT NOIR
Ken Wright Carter Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 2021 $65
94 points, Critic’s Choice
This all comes from 1983 plantings. The aromas are perfumed, with notes of strawberry, satsuma rind, black tea leaf, crushed flower, and a whiff of cigar box, showing pleasing complexities. The medium-bodied flavors are resonant and juicy, with plenty of structure backing them up. It’s vivid and delicious, with impeccable balance. Enjoy after 2026. It will have a long life beyond that. 13.3% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Synthetic cork.
Ken Wright Savoya Vineyard Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton 2021 $65
93 points, Critic’s Choice
Fruit here comes from vines at or near their 20th year. Aged 10-11 months in 20% new French oak, the aromas rise up out of the glass, with notes of crushed and fresh flower, plum, ripe red fruit, satsuma, black tea, and briquette. Soft, sultry, layered flavors follow, broadening in intensity with time open. A long, long finish caps it off. It’s thoroughly dazzling, with heart-aching purity and impressive freshness. Give it an extended decant if drinking in the near term. 13.2% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Synthetic cork.
Ken Wright Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton 2021 $65
93 points, Cellar Stocker
Shea Vineyard consistently creates remarkable wines, and this is no exception. Coming from the vineyard’s original 1989 plantings, it’s aromatically expressive, with notes of steeped black tea, flower, brambleberry, and herb. The palate brings density, intensity, layering, and delineation. It’s impressive, with exceptional fruit and exquisite winemaking. Though it’s hard to resist now, it will only ramp up with some time in the cellar. Enjoy after 2026. 12.8% alcohol. 500 cases produced. Synthetic cork.
Soter Estate Grown Estates Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $60
93 points, Cellar Stocker
This wine is a blend of fruit from the winery’s Ribbon Ridge Estate (50%), Mineral Springs (30%), and Tarren vineyards. Fermented 20% whole cluster and aged 10 months in oak (30% new), reserved aromas of red cherries and other berries mix with herb, graphite, and cigar box. Broad- feeling, exquisitely balanced flavors follow. There’s appealing depth and intensity along with no shortage of balance and grace. The structure and liveliness are equally impressive. Enjoy after 2027, with a long life beyond that. 13.6% alcohol. 3,175 cases produced.
Ken Wright Bonnie Jean Vineyard Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton 2021 $65
92 points
This is a relatively young vineyard, planted in 2010, 2014, and 2020, at 1,244 vines per acre. Aged in 20% new French oak, the aromas offer alluring notes of cinnamon stick, steeped black tea, anise, orange peel, and a whiff of crushed flower. Palate-coating, lighter-styled flavors follow, showing pillowy-soft layering and intensity. Fruit flavors weave in and out through the finish. It delights. 12.8% alcohol. 350 cases produced. Synthetic cork.
Ken Wright Canary Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 2021 $65
92 points, Cellar Stocker
All of the fruit here comes from 1983 plantings on Nekia and Jory soils. Effusive aromas of anise, boysenberry, black tea, and flower lead to soft, medium-bodied flavors that show polish, detail, and layering. The persistent intensity adds to its appeal, as does the purity. It’s completely captivating. Enjoy after 2025. 13.5% alcohol. 200 cases produced. Synthetic cork.
Le Doubblé Troubblé Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 $25
91 points, Critic’s Choice
This is a blend of fruit from vineyards in Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity, and Chehalem Mountains. Aged 10 months in neutral oak, aromas of dry soil, crushed flower, orange zest, and red cherry give way to medium-bodied flavors with impressive purity, layering, and verticality. Juicy flavors linger on the finish. The winemaking is impeccable, allowing the fruit to shine through. Decant. 13.0% alcohol. 152 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Le Doubblé Troubblé Phelps Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge 2021 $48
90 points
Aged 10 months in oak (30% new), this wine shows some reduction out of the gate, causing initial distraction. Beyond that are notes of dark raspberry, herb, and flower. Full-feeling flavors follow, trailing toward the finish initially, filling in with time open. The purity ups the interest. The tannins give a light grip. Give it significant time in bottle or a long decant to see it at its best. 13.5% alcohol. 71 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Le Doubblé Troubblé Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge 2021 $30
90 points, Critic’s Choice
Phelps Creek and Garnier vineyards comprise the fruit for this wine. Aged 10 months in neutral oak, it shows some reduction initially, making the red fruit aromas harder to tease out. Full-feeling, ripe raspberry flavors follow. There’s purity and persistent intensity on the finish, along with mountain-fresh, crunchy fruit flavors. Give it an long decant to tie it all together. The results will be rewarding. 13.4% alcohol. 123 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
OTHER RED VARIETIES & BLENDS
Massalto Extravaganza Cinsault Royal Slope 2020 $60
92 points, Critic’s Choice
All of the fruit here comes from Thunderstone Vineyard and was fermented whole cluster with carbonic maceration. Aromas of blueberry compote and red plum meld with flower and ember notes. The palate is polished, chock full of plump, layered fruit flavors. It’s completely irresistible, emphasizing purity. 14.1% alcohol. 150 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Walla Walla Vintners Sangiovese Columbia Valley 2020 $28
92 points, Critic’s Choice
The aromas are immediately identifiable as Walla Walla Vintners and as Sangiovese, with notes of chocolate and raspberry, along with cedar, cranberry, and barrel spice. Full-bodied, almost creamy-feeling flavors follow, mixing fruit and barrel in equal parts. Vanilla notes persist on the finish. It has impressive acidity and a whole lot of tannic structure. Give it time in bottle for the oak to integrate. The rewards will be plenty. 14.5% alcohol. 1,200 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Walla Walla Vintners Vottavo Cut Bank Estate Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2019 $65
91 points, Cellar Stocker
Sangiovese comprises three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (22%) and Syrah. The aromas bring notes of dark fruit, herb, and cherry along with vanilla and plentiful other sweet barrel spices. Ripe flavors follow, mixing dark fruit with oak accents. Firm tannins provide support. The tart acidity ups the interest. The oak plays prominently at present. The promise is clear. Best after 2028. 14.6% alcohol. 220 cases produced.
WHITE WINES
CHARDONNAY
Valo Conner Lee Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2019 $65
91 points
This fruit comes from 1989 plantings at one of the most highly regarded Chardonnay vineyards in the state. Having gone through almost full malolactic fermentation, aromas of clarified butter, barrel toast, and ripe peach lead to full-feeling, creamy flavors. It’s a ripe, style-driven offering, with the vineyard’s characteristic acidity keeping the interest up. Give it a few years in bottle or a long decant to see it at its best. 14.0% alcohol. 150 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Valo Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2020 $40
91 points
All of the fruit here comes from 1989 plantings, barrel fermented in 500L neutral oak puncheons. The aromas offer notes of cream, clarified butter, peach, and spice. Medium-bodied stone fruit flavors follow, showing sophistication. It’s a spot-on offering of the variety. 14.0% alcohol. 300 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Le Doubblé Troubblé Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Gorge 2020 $30
88 points
Lemon curd, mesquite smoke, and herb aromas lead to medium-bodied, sleek, acid-driven flavors. The smoke impact is a shame, as the underlying fruit is gorgeous, and the winemaking is impeccable. 13.2% alcohol. 118 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
OTHER WHITES
Jaine Stoneridge Vineyard Blanc de Cabernet Franc Royal Slope 2021 $24
91, Critic’s Choice
Fruit for this wine was gently pressed upon arrival at the winery to avoid bringing any pigment. It was subsequently fermented and aged in stainless steel. The aromas offer notes of herb, corn husk, and citrus. The palate is full-feeling and textural, showing depth and intensity. There’s one hand on the throttle, with impressive acidity keeping it all in control. 13.4% alcohol. 462 cases produced. Synthetic cork.
Massalto Irreverent Viognier Columbia Valley 2019 $50
90 points
This is 100% varietal, with all of the fruit coming from Stoneridge and Corfu Crossing vineyards on the Royal Slope. The aromas bring malolactic and barrel notes of cream, clarified butter, and spice, along with stone fruit and white flower. Full-feeling creamsicle flavors follow. A warm finish caps it off. 14.1% alcohol. 200 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Jaine Stoneridge Vineyard Riesling Royal Slope 2021 $24
89 points
The aromas are subdued for the variety, with notes of canned mandarin orange and flower. Dry, medium-bodied, textured flavors follow. Bright acidity ties it all together. It’s an enjoyable, fuller style. 13.4% alcohol. 177 cases produced. Synthetic cork.
Massalto Sauvalanche Royal Slope 2020 $50
88 points
This is a one-of-a-kind wine for the state, a co-fermented blend of Sauvignon Blanc (60%) and Chenin Blanc from Scarline and Stoneridge vineyards respectively. The aromas are subdued, with notes of fresh and dried tobacco, peach, herb, and flower. If you close your eyes, it might be a challenge to immediately identify if it’s a red or white wine. Full-bodied, almost viscous-feeling stone fruit flavors follow. A warm finish caps it off, adding some medicinal notes. It’s part intellectually interesting, part hedonism. 14.1% alcohol. 150 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
ROSÉ
Walla Walla Vintners Rosé Walla Walla Valley 2022 $24
92 points, Critic’s Choice
In Washington rosé, one often trades fruit intensity for acidity or vice versa. Here we find both in abundance. A pleasing pale peach color, the aromas offer notes of yellow strawberry, melon rind, and citrus. A fuller-feeling, richly textural palate follows. Tart acidity keeps the interest way up. 12.5% alcohol. 550 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Valo Desert Wind Vineyard Tempranillo Rosé Wahluke Slope 2021 $32
91 points
Pale peach in color, the aromas are bright, with notes of watermelon, berry, and herb. Fresh, juicy flavors follow with lovely balance and a drawn out finish. It’s a compelling mixture of fruitfulness and bright acidity. Yum. 12.8% alcohol. 200 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
Mongata Resurgent Vineyard Estate Rosé Walla Walla Valley 2021 $28
90 points
This is all Syrah, with fruit coming from Block G at this vineyard. It’s somewhat darker in color than most modern Washington rosés, though not so much that it distracts. Aromas of wet stone, strawberry, and orange rind lead to a medium-bodied, flavorful palate. Pleasing acidity ties it all together. It's summer in a glass. 13.0% alcohol. 102 cases produced.
Rooted Souls Syrah Rosé Yakima Valley 2021 $28
85 points
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Dineen Vineyard. It is dark in color, showing significant bricking. Cherry and flower aromas lead to full-bodied flavors. The intention is unclear. 13.8% alcohol. 80 cases produced. TCA-free micro-agglomerated cork.
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